Moon Travel Guides https://www.moon.com Hachette Book Group is a leading book publisher based in New York and a division of Hachette Livre, the third-largest publisher in the world. Wed, 06 Mar 2024 14:10:22 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.3 https://www.moon.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/cropped-hachette-logo1.png?w=32 Moon Travel Guides https://www.moon.com 32 32 THE SITUATION ROOM Book Tour https://www.moon.com/articles/the-situation-room-book-tour/ Wed, 06 Mar 2024 14:09:55 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1516910

MEET GEORGE STEPHANOPOULOS

Grab your tickets below!

  • LA Times Book Festival

    Tickets will be available starting March 13th

    Los Angeles, CA

    More info
  • Premiere Live Signing

    Virtual Event

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  • 92nd St Y with Maggie Haberman

    New York, NY

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  • Sixth and I

    Washington, DC

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  • Philadelphia Free Library

    Philadelphia, PA

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  • Chicago Humanities Festival

    Chicago, IL

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  • Long Island LitFest

    Long Island, NY

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  • Springfield Public Forum

    Springfield, MA

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THINK TWICE (Book Excerpt) https://www.moon.com/articles/think-twice-book-excerpt/ Tue, 20 Feb 2024 21:42:26 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1511279

PROLOGUE

Here is how you destroy a life.

You stand over his bed and watch him sleep. He’s a heavy sleeper. You know this because you’ve been watching him for six weeks now. You don’t take chances. You prepare. That’s the secret sauce. There is no reason to rush. Anticipation is a big part of life. “It’s the journey, not the destination.” You remember the speaker at your college graduation said that. It’s an old saw of a line, a cliché, but it stuck with you. And it’s not completely true, not by a long shot, but it is a good reminder on those long, lonely nights that joy can and must be found in both the waiting and the tedious.

Because you are well prepared, you know that he likes to have a cognac before he goes to bed. Not every night, but pretty close to it. If he hadn’t taken one tonight, then you’d have postponed. Don’t be in a rush. Don’t take chances. If you’re patient, you’ll get your target with little to no risk.

It’s about preparation and patience.

Because you’ve been watching him, you know he keeps a spare key in one of those gray hide‐a‐key fake rocks. That’s how you gained access to the house this morning to spike his cognac. That’s how you gained access again tonight.

He will not be waking up for a while.

He keeps a gun, a Glock 19, in a hard case in the top drawer of his night table. The hard case doesn’t have a combination lock. It’s biometric and opens via a thumbprint sensor. He’s totally passed out, so you lift up his hand, take hold of the thumb, and push it against the sensor. The lock mechanism whirs and pops open.

You take out the gun.

You are wearing gloves. He, of course, is not. You wrap his hand around the Glock, so that his fingerprints will be in the right spots. Then you carefully put the weapon in your backpack. You have tissues and plastic bags with you. You always carry them. Just in case. You dab the tissue against his mouth, making sure to get his spit on it. Then you put the tissue in a plastic bag and put the plastic bag in the backpack next to the gun. You may not need this. It may be overkill. But overkill seems to sell.

He remains on his back snoring.

You can’t help but smile.

You enjoy this part. You enjoy this part much more than the actual kill. A kill can be relatively simple and is usually quick.

But this, the setup, this is a work of art.

His mobile phone is on the night table. You set it on silent and then that, too, you put in your backpack. You leave his bedroom. His Audi car keys are on a hook near the back door. He’s meticulous about that. He comes home, he puts his keys on the hook. Every time. You grab the keys. For good measure, you take one of the baseball caps he keeps on the coat rack. You put it on your head. The fit is close enough. You don sunglasses. You know to keep your head low.

You drive off in the Audi toward her.

She is staying at an Airbnb on a quiet lake in Marshfield. He doesn’t know that she’s there. You do because again you’ve been preparing. Once you saw that she’d gone there—that she planned to hide from him and not tell anyone—you knew it was time. You take out his mobile phone and type in the address of the Airbnb, so there’ll be a record of it in his map searches.

The Airbnb she rented is a small Cape Cod. She’s been there for a week now. You understand why she’s taken this step, but it could only ever be a temporary solution for her. You park on the street. It’s late. Two in the morning. You know, however, that she’s still awake. So you park down the street, in front of an empty vacation home.

You take the gun out of your backpack.

The kitchen light in the Airbnb is on. That’s where she will be.

You circle toward the light and look through the window of the kitchen door. There she is.

She sits alone at the table with a cup of tea and a book. She’s a pretty woman. Her dirty blonde hair is tied back seemingly in haste. Her feet are tucked under her. She looks too thin, but that’s probably the stress. She is totally focused on her book. She wears an oversized men’s dress shirt. You wonder whether it is his. That would be bizarre and creepy, but so much of life is.

Still watching her through the window, you carefully, slowly, try the knob.

You don’t want to make noise. You don’t want to startle her.

The door is locked.

You look down at the knob. It’s old. The lock looks weak. If you had tools, you could open it quickly. But this is probably better. You look at her through the window again. And when you do, she looks up and spots your face.

Her eyes widen in surprise.

She is about to scream. You don’t want that.

Careless. Again. Despite all your planning, you made a mistake the last time. You can’t afford to make another.

So you don’t hesitate.

You aim your kick for the spot right below the doorknob. The old door gives way easily. You enter the house.

“Please.” She stands and puts her hands out, one holding the book. “Please don’t hurt me.”

You shoot her twice in the chest.

She drops to the floor. You hurry over and check.

Dead.

You remove the tissue from the plastic bag in your backpack. You leave it on the floor. Juries love DNA. They’ve all grown up with TV shows that exaggerate the miracles of the technology. They expect it in a murder trial. If there’s no DNA evidence, a jury wonders about guilt.

You are in and out of the house in less than fifteen seconds.

The gun made noise. No question about it. But most people assume fireworks or backfire or some innocent explanation. Still, there is no reason to hang around. You hurry back to the car. You aren’t particularly worried that someone will notice you running. If they do—if worse comes to worst—they’ll see a man in a baseball cap running back to an Audi registered to him, not you.

It will, if anything, help.

You start to drive. You feel odd about the killing. It is a thrill, the killing part, more for your beloved than you, but you often feel oddly empty right after. It’s a bit like sex, isn’t it? Not to be too clinical about it, but the letdown after climax, the moment the French call la petite mort—the Little Death. That’s how you feel right now. That’s how you feel during the first mile or two of the drive, the shooting replaying in your mind, the way her body dropped to the floor. It’s exciting and yet a little…

Empty?

You check the clock. He should be passed out for another three hours. That’s plenty of time. You drive back to his house. You park the Audi where you found it.

You smile. Here, this part, this is the true rush for you.

This Audi has some kind of tracking system, so the police will be able to see where it went tonight. You enter his house. You hang up the keys. You keep the baseball cap—it may have some of your hairs in it now. No need to take that chance. If the police notice it’s missing, they’ll figure he dumped it after the shooting.

You head upstairs to his bedroom. You put his phone back on the night table. You even plug it into his charger. Like with the Audi, the police will get a warrant for his phone locations that will “prove” he took the journey to that Airbnb at the time of the murder.

You use his thumb to open the hard case. You put the gun back. You debate just leaving the gun next to his bed, but that feels heavy‐handed. There is a storage shed in the yard. You take the hard case with the gun and hide it under bags of peat moss. They’ll know that he has a Glock 19 registered in his name. They’ll scour the entire property and find it in the storage shed.

Ballistics will confirm that the murder weapon was his Glock 19.

The Audi. The mobile phone. The DNA. The gun. Any two of the four would convict him.

For her, the horror is over. For him, it’s just begun.

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Presidential Picks: Books for American History Buffs https://www.moon.com/articles/presidential-picks-books-for-american-history-buffs/ Wed, 14 Feb 2024 21:39:43 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1508483

As we approach Presidents' Day, dive into the heart of American history and learn more about the leadership and situations that have shaped the United States with these informative reads.

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As we approach Presidents' Day, dive into the heart of American history and learn more about the leadership and situations that have shaped the United States with these informative reads.

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BRUSSEL SPROUT AND PINTO TACOS WITH MANGO SALSA https://www.moon.com/articles/brussel-sprout-and-pinto-tacos-with-mango-salsa/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 21:06:00 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1509326

SERVES 4 / ELEGANT

INGREDIENTS

4 cups shredded brussels sprouts

1 (15.5‑ounce) can low-sodium pinto beans, drained and rinsed, or 1-1/2 cups cooked pinto beans

1 tablespoon reduced-sodium taco seasoning

1 cup Mango Salsa (recipe below)

8 (6‑inch) corn tortillas

Creamy Tofu Sauce, for garnish (optional)

Scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish (optional)

Edible flowers or microgreens, for garnish (optional)

RECIPE

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the brussels sprouts, pinto beans, and taco seasoning to the skillet and sauté for 4 to 6 minutes, until the brussels sprouts have cooked down in size.

Add 2 tablespoons of water or vegetable broth to prevent the brussels sprouts from sticking; add more liquid as needed.

Divide the mixture among taco shells and top with the mango salsa. Garnish with the tofu sauce, scallions, edible flowers, or microgreens, if using.

PER SERVING (. OF RECIPE): 271 CALORIES, 10 G PROTEIN, 48 G CARBOHYDRATE, 12 G SUGAR, 5 G TOTAL FAT, 2% CALORIES FROM FAT, 1 G SATURATED FAT, 10 G FIBER, 457 MG SODIUM

MANGO SALSA

SERVES 2-6 / EASY

1–4 tablespoons finely diced red onion

2 mangoes

1 small Persian cucumber, diced (optional)

1–3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro or fresh mint, stemmed

2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar or mango vinegar

Juice of 1 small lime (optional)

Salt and pepper (optional)

1/2 avocado (optional)

Soak the onion in cold water for 5 minutes; drain. Remove the skin from the mangoes and carefully cut the mango flesh away from the large pit. Dice small and set aside.

If using a cucumber, remove the skin and dice small. In a mixing bowl, toss together the onion, mango, cilantro or mint, and vinegar, plus the cucumber and lime juice, if using. Add salt and pepper to taste, if desired. Chill for 15 minutes, or longer if you can. If using avocado, dice it small and mix it in immediately before serving or it may brown.

Note: For a spicy version, add 1 to 2 teaspoons minced habanero or jalapeño pepper. If you can’t find a Persian cucumber (they are much smaller than “regular” cucumbers), remove skin and seeds from a regular cucumber, then dice it. Soaking onions first mellows the onion flavor and helps retain their crunch.

PER SERVING (ENTIRE RECIPE, EXCLUDING AVOCADO): 414 CALORIES, 6 G PROTEIN, 102 G CARBOHYDRATE, 93 G SUGAR, 3 G TOTAL FAT, 3% CALORIES FROM FAT, 1 G SATURATED FAT, 11 G FIBER, 12 MG SODIUM


Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into 9 squares.

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CARROT CAKE https://www.moon.com/articles/carrot-cake/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 20:58:24 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1509316

SERVES 8 / ELEGANT

INGREDIENTS

1/4 cup raisins or walnuts (optional)

1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour or oat flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/4–1/2 cup brown sugar

1 cup shredded carrots

1/2 cup crushed pineapple

1/4 cup applesauce or vegetable oil

2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar

1–2 teaspoons vanilla extract (optional)

Nondairy milk, as needed

1–2 (8‑ounce) packages vegan cream cheese, for frosting

RECIPE

If using raisins, soak them in hot water for 10 minutes, or until plump. Drain and reserve the soaking water.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spritz an 8‑inch square or round pan with plant-based oil spray or use a nonstick pan.

In a large mixing bowl, sift together the flour, salt, baking soda, and ground cinnamon. Stir in the sugar; set aside.

In another bowl, whisk together the carrots, pineapple, applesauce or oil, vinegar, and vanilla, if using. Stir this wet mixture into the dry mixture, then fold in the plumped raisins (or walnuts), if using. If the cake batter is dry (floury) or thick (like hummus), add nondairy milk (or raisin soak water) to moisten. When in doubt, add 1/4 cup.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan, patting it down evenly. Bake for 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Allow the cake to cool completely before frosting with vegan cream cheese.

Note: For a sweeter frosting, use electric beaters to whip 1 to 4 tablespoons of confectioners’ sugar into room-temperature vegan cream cheese. Orange zest is a nice addition to the cake.

PER SERVING (1⁄8 OF RECIPE, EXCLUDING CREAM CHEESE): 118 CALORIES, 3 G PROTEIN, 26 G CARBOHYDRATE, 7 G SUGAR, 0 G TOTAL FAT, 0% CALORIES FROM FAT, 1 G FIBER, 238 MG SODIUM


Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into 9 squares.

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EASY BREEZY VEGGIE CURRY https://www.moon.com/articles/easy-breezy-veggie-curry/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 20:50:03 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1509311

SERVES 8 / ELEGANT

INGREDIENTS

2 cups peeled and roughly chopped carrots

3-1/2 cups low-sodium vegetable broth, divided

1 tablespoon curry powder

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1 onion, chopped

2 tablespoons water or vegetable broth

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger or ginger from a squeeze tube

1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch cubes

2 cups cauliflower florets, cut into bite-sized pieces

2 cups broccoli florets, cut into bite-sized pieces

1 (14.5‑ounce) can diced tomatoes

1 (15.5‑ounce) can low-sodium chickpeas

1 cup frozen peas

5 ounces baby spinach

Chopped fresh cilantro (optional)

Cooked brown rice (optional)

RECIPE

Add the carrots and 2 cups of the broth to a saucepot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and let simmer for 6 to 8 minutes, until the carrots are fork-tender. Transfer to a blender, add the curry powder and salt, and blend until smooth and creamy.

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for 4 minutes, or until the onion is translucent. Add 2 tablespoons of water or vegetable broth as needed to prevent the onion from sticking to the skillet. Add the garlic and ginger and sauté 1 additional minute, or until fragrant.

Add the potatoes and the remaining 1-1/2 cups of broth, cover and bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and let cook for 4 minutes. Add the cauliflower, stir to combine, cover, and cook another 4 minutes, or until the potatoes are fork-tender.

Add the broccoli, tomatoes, chickpeas, peas, and carrot mixture; mix to combine everything and let it cook for 4 to 6 minutes, until the broccoli is tender and everything is heated through. Add the spinach and stir until the spinach is wilted and mixed in with everything. Season with more curry powder and salt to taste.

Serve hot, garnished with cilantro over brown rice, if using.

PER SERVING (1 CUP): 143 CALORIES, 8 G PROTEIN, 28 G CARBOHYDRATE, 5 G SUGAR, 1 G TOTAL FAT, 2% CALORIES FROM FAT, 0 G SATURATED FAT, 6 G FIBER, 497 MG SODIUM


Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into 9 squares.

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ONE-POT CAULIFLOWER PICCATA PASTA https://www.moon.com/articles/one-pot-cauliflower-piccata-pasta/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 20:40:56 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1509307

SERVES 6 / ELEGANT

INGREDIENTS

1 onion, diced

1 head (roughly 4 cups) cauliflower, cut into bite- sized florets

2 tablespoons water or vegetable broth, plus more as needed

4 cloves garlic

8 ounces chickpea or whole- wheat rotini pasta

3 cups low- sodium vegetable broth, divided

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/4 cup capers

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, plus more for garnish (optional)

Juice of 2 lemons

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

Crushed red pepper (optional)

RECIPE

Heat a large skillet with a lid over medium-high heat until the skillet is very hot. Add the onions and cauliflower and sauté 4 minutes, or until the onions are soft and translucent. Add 2 tablespoons of water or vegetable broth as needed to prevent sticking. Add the garlic and continue to cook for 5 minutes, stirring frequently and adding liquid as needed. The cauliflower may start to brown on the edges; that’s okay.

Add the pasta and 2-1/2 cups of the vegetable broth. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer; cook for 8 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has decreased by half and the pasta is al dente.

In a small bowl, combine the remaining 1/2 cup vegetable broth and the cornstarch; whisk to combine and create a slurry.

Add the capers, parsley, lemon juice, salt, and pepper to the pot; stir to combine. Add the slurry and stir to combine. Remove from the heat and let sit for 4 minutes to let the sauce thicken.

Serve hot, garnished with more parsley and crushed red pepper, if desired.

PER SERVING (1. CUPS): 88 CALORIES, 4 G PROTEIN, 17 G CARBOHYDRATE, 4 G SUGAR, 1 G TOTAL FAT, 2% CALORIES FROM FAT, 0 G SATURATED FAT, 4 G FIBER, 327 MG SODIUM


Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into 9 squares.

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CRISPY OIL-FREE OVEN-BAKED POTATO WEDGES https://www.moon.com/articles/crispy-oil-free-oven-baked-potato-wedges/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 20:33:08 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1509303

SERVES 2 / CONVENIENT

INGREDIENTS

2 large russet potatoes, cut into wedges

1 tablespoon low- sodium tamari or soy sauce

1 teaspoon Italian seasoning

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

RECIPE

Add the vinegar, tahini, maple syrup, tamari, and sesame seeds to a bowl and whisk to combine. Set aside.

Wrap the cucumbers in a paper towel and squeeze them dry over the sink. Add the cucumbers, chickpeas, wakame, and liquid mixture to a large bowl. Toss to combine.

Garnish with more sesame seeds, if desired.

PER SERVING (. OF RECIPE): 193 CALORIES, 7 G PROTEIN, 28 G CARBOHYDRATE, 10 G SUGAR, 6 G TOTAL FAT, 3% CALORIES FROM FAT, 1 G SATURATED FAT, 5 G FIBER, 225 MG SODIUM


Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into 9 squares.

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STRAWBERRY BANANA BREAKFAST BAKE https://www.moon.com/articles/strawberry-banana-breakfast-bake/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 20:27:46 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1509270

SERVES 9 / EASY

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons flax meal

1/4 cup water

2 bananas, mashed

1-1/4 cups unsweetened almond milk

1/4 cup unsweetened applesauce

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 cups old-fashioned rolled oats

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1 cup chopped strawberries

1/2 cup sliced strawberries

1 banana, sliced

Maple syrup (optional)

RECIPE

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line an 8 x 8‑inch baking dish with parchment paper so that it overhangs on two sides by an inch or two.

Add the flax and water to a small bowl, whisk to combine, and let sit to thicken for 5 minutes.

In a bowl, mash 2 bananas. Add the milk, applesauce, and vanilla and whisk to combine.

Add the oats, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt to a large bowl and whisk to combine. Add the flax mixture and mashed banana mixture and use a spatula to combine all the ingredients. Fold in the chopped strawberries until evenly dispersed. Transfer to the prepared baking dish.

Top with the sliced strawberries and banana.

Bake for 25 minutes, or until the edges have started to brown and the top appears to have set.

Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into 9 squares.

PER SERVING (1 SQUARE): 121 CALORIES, 4 G PROTEIN, 19 G CARBOHYDRATE, 2 G SUGAR, 3 G TOTAL FAT, 2% CALORIES FROM FAT, 0 G SATURATED FAT, 1 G FIBER, 200 MG SODIUM


Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into 9 squares.

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A Reflection on Black History Month and Q&A with Omkari Williams https://www.moon.com/articles/a-reflection-on-black-history-month-and-q-and-a-with-omakri-williams/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 17:44:44 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1508936

Micro Activism author and activist coach Omkari Williams reflects on Black History Month and offers advice on how to support causes that are important to you.

In 1976 the U.S. started celebrating Black History Month. An entire month, though the shortest one, where the focus is on the accomplishments, contributions, and lives of Black Americans.

Black History Month is important to celebrate and a reminder of the continuing inequities in our country. I relish learning more about Black Americans who came before me and having those stories widely shared. America would look very different without the stellar contributions of Black Americans to music, food, politics, science, sports, and literature.  

At the same time, the goal should be that Black History Month becomes a thing of the past. When the history of Black people in America ceases to be something outside the bounds of general history, we won’t need a Black History Month; the same is true of women’s history, Latinx history, and Indigenous history. The stories of all these groups are inextricable parts of the American story and should be seen and taught as such. History, not Black, women’s, Latinx, or Indigenous, just American. 

Until that time arrives, we must continue to elevate the stories of Black Americans and all other marginalized groups to have a fuller picture of who we are as a country, in celebration of all our diversity. 

Illustration excerpted from Micro Activism.

Q: What inspired you to be an activist? 

A: My dad was a humanitarian. He worked all over the world to help those impacted by disasters, both natural and man-made. I was always aware that I was fortunate, and that fortune was a matter of luck. Advocating for those who weren’t as lucky just seemed like what one did. We hear the increasingly dire warnings from scientists about climate change and yet most of us are going about our business as if we have a lot of time to make some significant changes in order to avoid the worst impacts of climate change. We don’t, so this is an area of focus for me. The other thing I’m deeply concerned about are the attacks on privacy, which include the overturning of Roe and attacks on the LGBTQ+ community. I see these as part of a fundamental attack on individual dignity and believe we need to be paying greater attention to the challenges that we're facing on this front.   

Photo by Kimberly Thompson Panay © Storey Publishing.

Q: Your book builds on your Activist Archetype tool that provides people with their individual activist type. Why is it important for people to understand their activist type?  

A: The Activist Archetype Quiz is designed to be a tool for you to use to get a clear understanding of who you are as an activist. What are your strengths? How can you most readily contribute to the cause that has your heart? It’s my hope that, if you know your type, you won’t try and be someone other than who you are in your activist work. Most of us have an idea of an activist that doesn’t necessarily line up with who we are. We think of people like Dr. King or Greta Thunberg. Obviously, those are two examples of activists, but they are not the spectrum of activists. For most of us, trying to live up to the example that they set is just never going to happen. Instead, when you find your archetype, you can build activism into your day in ways that make sense for who you are and the life you are living right now. Building a practice of micro activism that we can sustain over the long haul is more productive than thinking everything we do has to be huge, because the cumulative effect of the micro actions will, 99% of the time, be more impactful than one big action. 

Q: What advice do you give to beginner activists that feel compelled to act, but aren’t sure where to start? 

A: Take the quiz and find out what kind of activist you are so that you can plan your first steps realistically. The next thing is to pick one cause to focus on. You’re getting your feet wet, don’t overwhelm yourself. Make a list of actions you could take in support of your chosen cause, pick one, and then make it smaller. Then make it smaller again. Keep doing that until you’ve gotten the action to the point where it’s so small that not doing it seems ridiculous. Repeat that process again and again, letting yourself be guided by the feedback you get and the people you meet who are further down their activist paths. Eventually, your idea of a small action will be bigger than where you started, but the guiding principle, always, is to keep it in the realm of realistic for you. Not for your sister or your best friend, for you. You are building the habit of activism, allow yourself to do it organically. 

Omkari Williams speaking at Harvard Bookstore about her book "Micro Activism" in conversation with Precious Chika Musa. Photo by Maddy Jackson © Storey Publishing.

Q: Micro-actions don’t always have obvious results at first, but you make the point that these small acts are not ineffectual. What, to you, is the importance of starting with small, doable actions? 

A: Avoiding burnout! We all have so much going on in our lives that adding in big things can work for a while, when the adrenaline of the new is pumping, but that can be hard to sustain as regular life intrudes. With micro activism we are taking actions that are so small that not doing them seems silly. Sign and send that one email to a legislator that was drafted by someone we’re working with on our cause? Sure, I can do that. Send a text reminding a friend of our plan to drop food by the local food pantry? No problem. Set up a recurring donation of $5 a month to a group doing work I support? Easy. Each of those actions, repeated over and over, add up. $5 a month might seem insignificant, but if a thousand other people are doing so as well, that’s huge. What might seem, on the surface, an insignificant action can have wide-reaching effects. 

Q: Micro Activism features profiles of activists engaging with social justice work in a variety of ways. What did you learn from speaking to these individuals? What do you hope readers learn from these profiles? 

A: I learned the value of tenacity. Some of the people I profiled have been doing their work for decades and they are still at it because they know it matters. They are all at different points in their activist work but share the goal of correcting harm, bringing justice to places where it is lacking, and generally making the world a better place. What I don’t always think they recognize is how inspirational they are to those they encounter. This is part of the whole micro activism experience: we are inspired by the work of others and we, ourselves, are inspiration for others. The work is about improving the lives of all of us and there is a powerful experience of community to be found in doing that work. We don’t always agree about how we want to achieve a goal but that’s just part of the process of being human and negotiating our differences. And you’ve likely never heard of any of the people in these profiles, yet they are all making a positive difference. Isn’t that the ultimate goal? 

Text © Omkari Williams.

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Micro Activism author and activist coach Omkari Williams reflects on Black History Month and offers advice on how to support causes that are important to you.

In 1976 the U.S. started celebrating Black History Month. An entire month, though the shortest one, where the focus is on the accomplishments, contributions, and lives of Black Americans.

Black History Month is important to celebrate and a reminder of the continuing inequities in our country. I relish learning more about Black Americans who came before me and having those stories widely shared. America would look very different without the stellar contributions of Black Americans to music, food, politics, science, sports, and literature.  

At the same time, the goal should be that Black History Month becomes a thing of the past. When the history of Black people in America ceases to be something outside the bounds of general history, we won’t need a Black History Month; the same is true of women’s history, Latinx history, and Indigenous history. The stories of all these groups are inextricable parts of the American story and should be seen and taught as such. History, not Black, women’s, Latinx, or Indigenous, just American. 

Until that time arrives, we must continue to elevate the stories of Black Americans and all other marginalized groups to have a fuller picture of who we are as a country, in celebration of all our diversity. 

Illustration excerpted from Micro Activism.

Q: What inspired you to be an activist? 

A: My dad was a humanitarian. He worked all over the world to help those impacted by disasters, both natural and man-made. I was always aware that I was fortunate, and that fortune was a matter of luck. Advocating for those who weren’t as lucky just seemed like what one did. We hear the increasingly dire warnings from scientists about climate change and yet most of us are going about our business as if we have a lot of time to make some significant changes in order to avoid the worst impacts of climate change. We don’t, so this is an area of focus for me. The other thing I’m deeply concerned about are the attacks on privacy, which include the overturning of Roe and attacks on the LGBTQ+ community. I see these as part of a fundamental attack on individual dignity and believe we need to be paying greater attention to the challenges that we're facing on this front.   

Photo by Kimberly Thompson Panay © Storey Publishing.

Q: Your book builds on your Activist Archetype tool that provides people with their individual activist type. Why is it important for people to understand their activist type?  

A: The Activist Archetype Quiz is designed to be a tool for you to use to get a clear understanding of who you are as an activist. What are your strengths? How can you most readily contribute to the cause that has your heart? It’s my hope that, if you know your type, you won’t try and be someone other than who you are in your activist work. Most of us have an idea of an activist that doesn’t necessarily line up with who we are. We think of people like Dr. King or Greta Thunberg. Obviously, those are two examples of activists, but they are not the spectrum of activists. For most of us, trying to live up to the example that they set is just never going to happen. Instead, when you find your archetype, you can build activism into your day in ways that make sense for who you are and the life you are living right now. Building a practice of micro activism that we can sustain over the long haul is more productive than thinking everything we do has to be huge, because the cumulative effect of the micro actions will, 99% of the time, be more impactful than one big action. 

Q: What advice do you give to beginner activists that feel compelled to act, but aren’t sure where to start? 

A: Take the quiz and find out what kind of activist you are so that you can plan your first steps realistically. The next thing is to pick one cause to focus on. You’re getting your feet wet, don’t overwhelm yourself. Make a list of actions you could take in support of your chosen cause, pick one, and then make it smaller. Then make it smaller again. Keep doing that until you’ve gotten the action to the point where it’s so small that not doing it seems ridiculous. Repeat that process again and again, letting yourself be guided by the feedback you get and the people you meet who are further down their activist paths. Eventually, your idea of a small action will be bigger than where you started, but the guiding principle, always, is to keep it in the realm of realistic for you. Not for your sister or your best friend, for you. You are building the habit of activism, allow yourself to do it organically. 

Omkari Williams speaking at Harvard Bookstore about her book "Micro Activism" in conversation with Precious Chika Musa. Photo by Maddy Jackson © Storey Publishing.

Q: Micro-actions don’t always have obvious results at first, but you make the point that these small acts are not ineffectual. What, to you, is the importance of starting with small, doable actions? 

A: Avoiding burnout! We all have so much going on in our lives that adding in big things can work for a while, when the adrenaline of the new is pumping, but that can be hard to sustain as regular life intrudes. With micro activism we are taking actions that are so small that not doing them seems silly. Sign and send that one email to a legislator that was drafted by someone we’re working with on our cause? Sure, I can do that. Send a text reminding a friend of our plan to drop food by the local food pantry? No problem. Set up a recurring donation of $5 a month to a group doing work I support? Easy. Each of those actions, repeated over and over, add up. $5 a month might seem insignificant, but if a thousand other people are doing so as well, that’s huge. What might seem, on the surface, an insignificant action can have wide-reaching effects. 

Q: Micro Activism features profiles of activists engaging with social justice work in a variety of ways. What did you learn from speaking to these individuals? What do you hope readers learn from these profiles? 

A: I learned the value of tenacity. Some of the people I profiled have been doing their work for decades and they are still at it because they know it matters. They are all at different points in their activist work but share the goal of correcting harm, bringing justice to places where it is lacking, and generally making the world a better place. What I don’t always think they recognize is how inspirational they are to those they encounter. This is part of the whole micro activism experience: we are inspired by the work of others and we, ourselves, are inspiration for others. The work is about improving the lives of all of us and there is a powerful experience of community to be found in doing that work. We don’t always agree about how we want to achieve a goal but that’s just part of the process of being human and negotiating our differences. And you’ve likely never heard of any of the people in these profiles, yet they are all making a positive difference. Isn’t that the ultimate goal? 

Text © Omkari Williams.

]]>
FRANKIE ELKIN SURVIVAL GUIDE https://www.moon.com/articles/frankie-elkin-survival-guide/ Tue, 13 Feb 2024 17:28:23 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1509179

The Official Frankie Elkin Survival Guide:

1.  Water. Always take plenty of water plus one more bottle 

2.  Paracord bracelet (you want the one with the razor sharp clasp perfect for sawing through wrist bindings—trust me on this. If you really want to go nuts, spend the extra $4 for the built in compass and fire starter)

3.  Multi Tool Tactical hair clips—again, go for the saw tooth edge, will be best 8 bucks you ever spent

4.  Emergency whistle—and keep it accessible!  Doesn’t just summon help, sometimes piercing noise enough to scare evil doers away

5.  Never accept a meeting with a convicted serial killer.  Please learn from my mistakes 

]]>
Where to Go in Europe for Your Zodiac Sign https://www.moon.com/travel/trip-ideas/europe-travel-astrology/ Fri, 09 Feb 2024 17:34:00 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1332619

Astrology buffs, we’ve got your travel horoscope right here. Find out where you should go in Europe and the United Kingdom based on your star sign.

Aries: Rome

Relaxing poolside? Not the ideal vacation for energetic Aries. A city like Rome is perfect for this get-up-and-go fire sign: channel your inner gladiator at the Colosseum, rent a bike and cycle the Appian Way, and join the local nightlife in trendy neighborhoods like Trastevere. The Eternal City is yours to conquer.


Taurus: April 20 - May 20
A hilltop view on the Croatian island of Hvar overlooks the Adriatic Sea

Taurus: Croatia

Taureans appreciate the finer things in life: a glass of red wine, soft warm sand underfoot, the sun setting over red-tiled roofs. All of that and more is possible in Croatia. Get active on a waterfall hike, go truffle-hunting, and reveal your inner royal as you explore ancient palaces. A trip to Croatia is a feast for the senses.


Gemini: May 21 - June 20
Big Ben and the Palace of Westminster on a sunny day

Gemini: London

England's bustling capital city is the ideal spot for gregarious Geminis. Feed your hunger for knowledge at the British Museum, uncover history at Westminster Abbey, and join new friends for a pint or two at a locally beloved pub. From the shops to the museums and nightlife, you'll never get bored in London.


Cancer: June 21 - July 22
A woman takes a dip in Iceland's Blue Lagoon as others gather nearby

Cancer: Iceland

Iceland invites this water sign to dive right in to its geothermal hot springs and lagoons. Go whale-watching, trek across a glacier, see thundering waterfalls—and at the end of the night, bask in the shimmering glow of the northern lights. We can't think of a better place to get cozy after a day of chilly adventures.


Leo: July 23 - August 22
The Louvre pyramid in Paris, illuminated at night

Leo: Paris

Face it, Leo, your creativity and magnetic energy can only be matched by the City of Light. Have a main character moment at the Eiffel Tower, admire the work of great artists at the Louvre, and dream up your next big idea at a sidewalk cafe. You'll find inspiration around every corner.


Virgo: August 23 - September 22
A statue of a horse faces the Natural History Museum in Vienna

Virgo: Vienna

Orderly, intellectual Virgos will feel right at home in this elegant Austrian city. Stroll the grand halls of Schönbrunn Palace, contemplate the legacies of Mozart and Freud, and engage in caffeinated conversation at a Viennese coffee house. The City of Music awaits.


Libra: September 23 - October 22
Pastel-colored houses in Lisbon, Portugal

Libra: Portugal

Sea and sand or cobblestone streets? Quaint fishing villages or cosmopolitan cities? Libras are stereotyped as indecisive, but in Portugal, you don't have to choose. Spend a day exploring ruins and castles, sip vinho verde and visit port wine cellars, and head out on a mountain trek when you're feeling adventurous. Libras can truly have it all in Portugal.


Scorpio: October 23 - November 21
Ruins and a large bronze head in ancient Pompeii city, Italy.

Scorpio: Southern Italy

Scorpios seek a vacation with all the intrigue and intensity of an episode of The White Lotus, so Southern Italy is a natural fit. Walk the frozen-in-time streets of Pompeii, taste volcanic wines, and explore the cave town of Matera. This beguiling region will cast its spell on you in no time.


Sagittarius: November 22 - December 21
A sign along the Camino de Santiago

Sagittarius: Camino de Santiago

Adventurous, pioneering, and downright obsessed with self-improvement, a soul-searching trek on the Camino de Santiago is just what Sagittarians need. Stroll through winding alleys of medieval cities, descend into green valleys, and socialize with other hikers and locals along the way to expand your worldview even more.


Capricorn: December 22 - January 19
The ruins of Scotland's Dunnottar Castle, perched above the North Sea

Capricorn: Scotland

Disciplined and reliable, Capricorns will find a lot to admire in Scotland. Challenge your travel companions to a hike on Arthur's Seat, explore Neolithic burial chambers, go castle-hopping, and savor a walk in the crisp weather (Capricorns rule the winter, after all).


Aquarius: January 20 - February 18
Colorful houses in Amsterdam overlooking the Amstel River

Aquarius: Amsterdam

Aquarians, it's about to get funky. With its longstanding reputation for being offbeat and freewheeling, this Dutch city is where you belong. Stroll the canals and admire postmodern architecture or peruse unique boutiques in the buzzing central district. Make like a local and rent a bike, check out contemporary art exhibits, and dance the night away at a trendy nightclub.


Pisces: February 19 - March 20
Beautiful sunrise at Little Venice on Mykonos island, Greece

Pisces: Greek Islands & Athens

These water signs should seek out a place as dreamy and romantic as they are: the Greek Islands. Hike through lush forests to waterfalls and hop aboard a boat to discover hidden coves and wild beaches. Learn about local folklore in Olympos and let your vivid imagination run wild as Greek history and mythology come to life all around you.


Build your Europe bucket list with Moon

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Pin it for later

Where to go in Europe for your zodiac sign
]]>

Astrology buffs, we’ve got your travel horoscope right here. Find out where you should go in Europe and the United Kingdom based on your star sign.

Aries: Rome

Relaxing poolside? Not the ideal vacation for energetic Aries. A city like Rome is perfect for this get-up-and-go fire sign: channel your inner gladiator at the Colosseum, rent a bike and cycle the Appian Way, and join the local nightlife in trendy neighborhoods like Trastevere. The Eternal City is yours to conquer.


Taurus: April 20 - May 20
A hilltop view on the Croatian island of Hvar overlooks the Adriatic Sea

Taurus: Croatia

Taureans appreciate the finer things in life: a glass of red wine, soft warm sand underfoot, the sun setting over red-tiled roofs. All of that and more is possible in Croatia. Get active on a waterfall hike, go truffle-hunting, and reveal your inner royal as you explore ancient palaces. A trip to Croatia is a feast for the senses.


Gemini: May 21 - June 20
Big Ben and the Palace of Westminster on a sunny day

Gemini: London

England's bustling capital city is the ideal spot for gregarious Geminis. Feed your hunger for knowledge at the British Museum, uncover history at Westminster Abbey, and join new friends for a pint or two at a locally beloved pub. From the shops to the museums and nightlife, you'll never get bored in London.


Cancer: June 21 - July 22
A woman takes a dip in Iceland's Blue Lagoon as others gather nearby

Cancer: Iceland

Iceland invites this water sign to dive right in to its geothermal hot springs and lagoons. Go whale-watching, trek across a glacier, see thundering waterfalls—and at the end of the night, bask in the shimmering glow of the northern lights. We can't think of a better place to get cozy after a day of chilly adventures.


Leo: July 23 - August 22
The Louvre pyramid in Paris, illuminated at night

Leo: Paris

Face it, Leo, your creativity and magnetic energy can only be matched by the City of Light. Have a main character moment at the Eiffel Tower, admire the work of great artists at the Louvre, and dream up your next big idea at a sidewalk cafe. You'll find inspiration around every corner.


Virgo: August 23 - September 22
A statue of a horse faces the Natural History Museum in Vienna

Virgo: Vienna

Orderly, intellectual Virgos will feel right at home in this elegant Austrian city. Stroll the grand halls of Schönbrunn Palace, contemplate the legacies of Mozart and Freud, and engage in caffeinated conversation at a Viennese coffee house. The City of Music awaits.


Libra: September 23 - October 22
Pastel-colored houses in Lisbon, Portugal

Libra: Portugal

Sea and sand or cobblestone streets? Quaint fishing villages or cosmopolitan cities? Libras are stereotyped as indecisive, but in Portugal, you don't have to choose. Spend a day exploring ruins and castles, sip vinho verde and visit port wine cellars, and head out on a mountain trek when you're feeling adventurous. Libras can truly have it all in Portugal.


Scorpio: October 23 - November 21
Ruins and a large bronze head in ancient Pompeii city, Italy.

Scorpio: Southern Italy

Scorpios seek a vacation with all the intrigue and intensity of an episode of The White Lotus, so Southern Italy is a natural fit. Walk the frozen-in-time streets of Pompeii, taste volcanic wines, and explore the cave town of Matera. This beguiling region will cast its spell on you in no time.


Sagittarius: November 22 - December 21
A sign along the Camino de Santiago

Sagittarius: Camino de Santiago

Adventurous, pioneering, and downright obsessed with self-improvement, a soul-searching trek on the Camino de Santiago is just what Sagittarians need. Stroll through winding alleys of medieval cities, descend into green valleys, and socialize with other hikers and locals along the way to expand your worldview even more.


Capricorn: December 22 - January 19
The ruins of Scotland's Dunnottar Castle, perched above the North Sea

Capricorn: Scotland

Disciplined and reliable, Capricorns will find a lot to admire in Scotland. Challenge your travel companions to a hike on Arthur's Seat, explore Neolithic burial chambers, go castle-hopping, and savor a walk in the crisp weather (Capricorns rule the winter, after all).


Aquarius: January 20 - February 18
Colorful houses in Amsterdam overlooking the Amstel River

Aquarius: Amsterdam

Aquarians, it's about to get funky. With its longstanding reputation for being offbeat and freewheeling, this Dutch city is where you belong. Stroll the canals and admire postmodern architecture or peruse unique boutiques in the buzzing central district. Make like a local and rent a bike, check out contemporary art exhibits, and dance the night away at a trendy nightclub.


Pisces: February 19 - March 20
Beautiful sunrise at Little Venice on Mykonos island, Greece

Pisces: Greek Islands & Athens

These water signs should seek out a place as dreamy and romantic as they are: the Greek Islands. Hike through lush forests to waterfalls and hop aboard a boat to discover hidden coves and wild beaches. Learn about local folklore in Olympos and let your vivid imagination run wild as Greek history and mythology come to life all around you.


Build your Europe bucket list with Moon

[hbg-newsletter call_to_action="Want travel inspiration sent straight to your inbox?" button_text="Sign up" list_id_override="c89b0f3998" /]


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Where to go in Europe for your zodiac sign
]]>
Marta McDowell’s Fast Facts About Presidential Gardens https://www.moon.com/the-current/marta-mcdowells-fast-facts-about-presidential-gardens/ Thu, 08 Feb 2024 20:54:11 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1508198

From The Kennedys spray-painted lawn to squirrels wreaking havoc on President Eisenhower's golf course, read ahead for Marta McDowell's fast facts about presidential gardens throughout history.


1. Mary Todd Lincoln's "Manure Fund"

Mary Todd Lincoln's gardener padded the garden fund so she could pay off her redecorating debts. The "Manure Fund" assisted with acquisition of china, crystal, wallpaper, carpets, and paint.

Mary Todd Lincoln bedecked with flowers in 1861. Credit: Mick Hales

2. Presidential sheep?

In World War I, a herd of 20 Hampshire sheep took up residence on the South Lawn of the White House to keep the grass closely cropped. Wool was in high demand, and the wool shorn from the White House sheep was auctioned as a novelty item to benefit the American Red Cross.

Credit: Library of Congress

3. President Theodore Roosevelt's children brought a menagerie of pets to the White House, including youngest son Quentin's three snakes.

After interrupting an interview with an attorney general, his father suggested Quentin wait in the next room with several Congressman. "I thought that he and the snakes would probably enliven their waiting time" wrote President Roosevelt.

Quentin Roosevelt and Roswell Pinckney, the son of the White House steward take time to smell (and pick) the tulips. Credit: Courtesy of the Library of Congress

4. Squirrels take over Eisenhower's golf course

President Eisenhower worked with the United States Golf Association to install a putting green on the south side of the White House. The local population of gray squirrels wreaked havoc on the turf and had to be trapped and relocated to West Virginia. One senator started a "Save The White House Squirrels" fund. The president's response was "No comment."

President Eisenhower practices his golf swing in 1954. Credit: AP Photo/HWG

5. Treehouses and sleepovers

President Carter also had a tree house built for his tween daughter, Amy, on the South Lawn. She was known to use it for sleepovers with friends, Secret Service oversight included.

Jimmy Carter reaches for his grandson Jason from his daughter, Amy, in the branches of the great cedar on the South Lawn. Credit: Jimmy Carter Presidential Library

6. The Kennedys patchy lawn

The Kennedys had the lawn's brown patches spray-painted green by National Park Service employees before VIPs stopped by.

John and Jacqueline Kennedy stride across the South Lawn in 1962. Credit: Courtesy of the Library of Congress

7. President Obama didn't like beets

President Obama didn't like beets, just as President George H.W. Bush didn't like broccoli. The Obamas added a kitchen garden to the White House Grounds, filled with healthy fruits and vegetables, the hallmark of Michelle Obama's Let's Move campaign. Slightly subversively, it included beets.

Local school students help First Lady Michelle Obama harvest from the White House Kitchen Garden. Credit: Obama White House Archive, photo by Chuck Kennedy

]]>

From The Kennedys spray-painted lawn to squirrels wreaking havoc on President Eisenhower's golf course, read ahead for Marta McDowell's fast facts about presidential gardens throughout history.


1. Mary Todd Lincoln's "Manure Fund"

Mary Todd Lincoln's gardener padded the garden fund so she could pay off her redecorating debts. The "Manure Fund" assisted with acquisition of china, crystal, wallpaper, carpets, and paint.

Mary Todd Lincoln bedecked with flowers in 1861. Credit: Mick Hales

2. Presidential sheep?

In World War I, a herd of 20 Hampshire sheep took up residence on the South Lawn of the White House to keep the grass closely cropped. Wool was in high demand, and the wool shorn from the White House sheep was auctioned as a novelty item to benefit the American Red Cross.

Credit: Library of Congress

3. President Theodore Roosevelt's children brought a menagerie of pets to the White House, including youngest son Quentin's three snakes.

After interrupting an interview with an attorney general, his father suggested Quentin wait in the next room with several Congressman. "I thought that he and the snakes would probably enliven their waiting time" wrote President Roosevelt.

Quentin Roosevelt and Roswell Pinckney, the son of the White House steward take time to smell (and pick) the tulips. Credit: Courtesy of the Library of Congress

4. Squirrels take over Eisenhower's golf course

President Eisenhower worked with the United States Golf Association to install a putting green on the south side of the White House. The local population of gray squirrels wreaked havoc on the turf and had to be trapped and relocated to West Virginia. One senator started a "Save The White House Squirrels" fund. The president's response was "No comment."

President Eisenhower practices his golf swing in 1954. Credit: AP Photo/HWG

5. Treehouses and sleepovers

President Carter also had a tree house built for his tween daughter, Amy, on the South Lawn. She was known to use it for sleepovers with friends, Secret Service oversight included.

Jimmy Carter reaches for his grandson Jason from his daughter, Amy, in the branches of the great cedar on the South Lawn. Credit: Jimmy Carter Presidential Library

6. The Kennedys patchy lawn

The Kennedys had the lawn's brown patches spray-painted green by National Park Service employees before VIPs stopped by.

John and Jacqueline Kennedy stride across the South Lawn in 1962. Credit: Courtesy of the Library of Congress

7. President Obama didn't like beets

President Obama didn't like beets, just as President George H.W. Bush didn't like broccoli. The Obamas added a kitchen garden to the White House Grounds, filled with healthy fruits and vegetables, the hallmark of Michelle Obama's Let's Move campaign. Slightly subversively, it included beets.

Local school students help First Lady Michelle Obama harvest from the White House Kitchen Garden. Credit: Obama White House Archive, photo by Chuck Kennedy

]]>
The Best Places to Go for Free in the Galápagos Islands https://www.moon.com/travel/trip-ideas/the-best-places-to-go-for-free-in-the-galapagos-islands/ Tue, 06 Feb 2024 17:20:00 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1507300 Landscape of beach and turquoise water under bright blue cloudy sky.

As budget tourists know, day tours can easily empty your wallet; cruises can empty your bank account. Luckily, a surprising number of sights are free to visit on your own. Check out these spots and keep an eye out for blue-footed boobies, marine iguanas, and sea lions.

Tortuga Bay, Santa Cruz

Landscape of beach and turquoise water under bright blue cloudy sky.
Tortuga Bay. Photo © Atosan/Dreamstime.

Most travelers don’t come to the Galápagos to lie on beaches but rather to watch animals lying on beaches. However, you may welcome the chance to sun yourself like a lazy iguana after a hard day of watching wildlife. The longest beach in the archipelago is a 45-minute walk from Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz. The first beach has strong currents and is popular with surfers, but walk to the end and soak in a sheltered, shallow lagoon at Playa Mansa. In between, there is a short rocky path where you can keep your eye out for marine iguanas and blue-footed boobies.

Cerro Tijeretas, San Cristóbal

A walking path from town winds through dry lava rock and cacti, ascending a steep hill with views of the beaches below. You can often spot frigate birds on the trees in the morning. The path then descends to a protected cove with clear water and good snorkeling.

La Lobería, San Cristóbal

Walk an hour out of town in San Cristóbal (or take a $4 taxi) and you will find yourself strolling among a huge colony of sea lions. The babies play in the sand while the moms sunbathe and the alpha males patrol the beach. The water is a bit murky and choppy, but that doesn’t stop tourists and locals from wading in to snorkel. The cliffs above the beach have beautiful views, and you can spot frigates and swallow-tailed gulls flying by.

Playa Grande and Los Humedales, Isabela

Puerto Villamil’s town is built along a beautiful white-sand beach that just keeps getting prettier the farther west you walk, until you reach the wetlands area with lagoons, flamingos, and marine iguanas.

Concha de Perla, Isabela

Walk just 15 minutes from town and you are ready to swim with lots of fish and occasional sea turtles in this protected, mangrove-fringed cove that is free to the public.

La Lobería, Floreana

Sea lion and pup sleeping on rocky beach.
Sea lions sleeping on La Lobería beach. Photo © Pablo Hidalgo/Dreamstime.

Just a 20-minute walk from Puerto Velasco Ibarra is a rocky, lava-strewn path, fringed on either side by dramatic red vesuvium plants and cacti. At the end of the path is a protected area where snorkelers can float among sea turtles and a small sea lion colony. The west-facing point is one of the best places to watch the sunset in the Galápagos.

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Image of beach with text the best places to go for free in the Galápagos Islands
]]>
Landscape of beach and turquoise water under bright blue cloudy sky.

As budget tourists know, day tours can easily empty your wallet; cruises can empty your bank account. Luckily, a surprising number of sights are free to visit on your own. Check out these spots and keep an eye out for blue-footed boobies, marine iguanas, and sea lions.

Tortuga Bay, Santa Cruz

Landscape of beach and turquoise water under bright blue cloudy sky.
Tortuga Bay. Photo © Atosan/Dreamstime.

Most travelers don’t come to the Galápagos to lie on beaches but rather to watch animals lying on beaches. However, you may welcome the chance to sun yourself like a lazy iguana after a hard day of watching wildlife. The longest beach in the archipelago is a 45-minute walk from Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz. The first beach has strong currents and is popular with surfers, but walk to the end and soak in a sheltered, shallow lagoon at Playa Mansa. In between, there is a short rocky path where you can keep your eye out for marine iguanas and blue-footed boobies.

Cerro Tijeretas, San Cristóbal

A walking path from town winds through dry lava rock and cacti, ascending a steep hill with views of the beaches below. You can often spot frigate birds on the trees in the morning. The path then descends to a protected cove with clear water and good snorkeling.

La Lobería, San Cristóbal

Walk an hour out of town in San Cristóbal (or take a $4 taxi) and you will find yourself strolling among a huge colony of sea lions. The babies play in the sand while the moms sunbathe and the alpha males patrol the beach. The water is a bit murky and choppy, but that doesn’t stop tourists and locals from wading in to snorkel. The cliffs above the beach have beautiful views, and you can spot frigates and swallow-tailed gulls flying by.

Playa Grande and Los Humedales, Isabela

Puerto Villamil’s town is built along a beautiful white-sand beach that just keeps getting prettier the farther west you walk, until you reach the wetlands area with lagoons, flamingos, and marine iguanas.

Concha de Perla, Isabela

Walk just 15 minutes from town and you are ready to swim with lots of fish and occasional sea turtles in this protected, mangrove-fringed cove that is free to the public.

La Lobería, Floreana

Sea lion and pup sleeping on rocky beach.
Sea lions sleeping on La Lobería beach. Photo © Pablo Hidalgo/Dreamstime.

Just a 20-minute walk from Puerto Velasco Ibarra is a rocky, lava-strewn path, fringed on either side by dramatic red vesuvium plants and cacti. At the end of the path is a protected area where snorkelers can float among sea turtles and a small sea lion colony. The west-facing point is one of the best places to watch the sunset in the Galápagos.

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Image of beach with text the best places to go for free in the Galápagos Islands
]]>
The Best Time to Visit the Galápagos Islands https://www.moon.com/travel/planning/the-best-time-to-visit-the-galapagos-islands/ Tue, 06 Feb 2024 16:52:15 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1507282 A waved albatross flying against blue cloudy sky.

The Galápagos Islands are a year-round destination, and even naturalist guides differ in their opinions of the best time to visit. You can even target specific wildlife events. There are two distinct seasons in the Galápagos: rainy season and dry season, though the best time to visit largely comes down to personal preference.

Many travelers consider wildlife when choosing a time to visit the Galápagos. The famous waved albatross visits Española only April-November. The comical mating dance of blue-footed boobies takes place May-June. October-November is a great time to see playful sea lion pups. For divers aboard live-aboard cruises, June-November is the prime season due to the presence of enormous whale sharks.

A waved albatross flying against blue cloudy sky.
A waved albatross. Photo © Doethion/Dreamstime.

December-April is the rainy, hot season. The weather is sunny and interspersed with periods of rain. The seas are the calmest and the water is at its warmest, and it’s pleasant to swim without a wetsuit. Rain leads to an explosion of greenery on the hillsides of some islands, though the highlands and arid coastal areas don’t change much. The lush green highlands of the islands stay green year-round, and the arid coastal landscapes dominated by lava rock, mangroves, and cacti don’t change much either. The downside is that mosquitoes and the sun are the most intense; you may constantly feel sticky from bug repellent, sunscreen, and the humidity. This season coincides with the busiest tourist period around Christmas and early January.

June-October is the cool, dry season. There are fewer mosquitoes, and the temperature on land is more comfortable for most people. However, the landscapes are more barren and the sea becomes considerably rougher, so seasickness is more of a problem. You’ll need to wear a wetsuit for swimming and snorkeling; the waters can be surprisingly cold. The biggest upside is that the Humboldt Current brings nutrient-rich water from the south; this means marine animals like sea lions, marine iguanas, and seabirds that feed on fish are all more active. June-August is another high season, with many travelers coming for summer vacations.

The islands have short low seasons in May and September. These are the best times to secure last-minute availability, although September is often used by cruise-boat owners as an opportunity to do annual maintenance work. However, cut-price deals can be found year-round if you look hard enough and are flexible.

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Image of rock formation and ocean with text The Best Time to Visit the Galapagos Islands
]]>
A waved albatross flying against blue cloudy sky.

The Galápagos Islands are a year-round destination, and even naturalist guides differ in their opinions of the best time to visit. You can even target specific wildlife events. There are two distinct seasons in the Galápagos: rainy season and dry season, though the best time to visit largely comes down to personal preference.

Many travelers consider wildlife when choosing a time to visit the Galápagos. The famous waved albatross visits Española only April-November. The comical mating dance of blue-footed boobies takes place May-June. October-November is a great time to see playful sea lion pups. For divers aboard live-aboard cruises, June-November is the prime season due to the presence of enormous whale sharks.

A waved albatross flying against blue cloudy sky.
A waved albatross. Photo © Doethion/Dreamstime.

December-April is the rainy, hot season. The weather is sunny and interspersed with periods of rain. The seas are the calmest and the water is at its warmest, and it’s pleasant to swim without a wetsuit. Rain leads to an explosion of greenery on the hillsides of some islands, though the highlands and arid coastal areas don’t change much. The lush green highlands of the islands stay green year-round, and the arid coastal landscapes dominated by lava rock, mangroves, and cacti don’t change much either. The downside is that mosquitoes and the sun are the most intense; you may constantly feel sticky from bug repellent, sunscreen, and the humidity. This season coincides with the busiest tourist period around Christmas and early January.

June-October is the cool, dry season. There are fewer mosquitoes, and the temperature on land is more comfortable for most people. However, the landscapes are more barren and the sea becomes considerably rougher, so seasickness is more of a problem. You’ll need to wear a wetsuit for swimming and snorkeling; the waters can be surprisingly cold. The biggest upside is that the Humboldt Current brings nutrient-rich water from the south; this means marine animals like sea lions, marine iguanas, and seabirds that feed on fish are all more active. June-August is another high season, with many travelers coming for summer vacations.

The islands have short low seasons in May and September. These are the best times to secure last-minute availability, although September is often used by cruise-boat owners as an opportunity to do annual maintenance work. However, cut-price deals can be found year-round if you look hard enough and are flexible.

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Image of rock formation and ocean with text The Best Time to Visit the Galapagos Islands
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Romantic Road Trips and Scenic Roadside Stops https://www.moon.com/travel/road-trips/romantic-road-trips-and-scenic-roadside-stops/ Thu, 01 Feb 2024 21:56:22 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1504857 Bear Mountain bridge at night

February might be the month of romance, but there are plenty of gorgeous stops and lookout points to be enjoyed throughout the year. Plan your next romantic road trip with some of our favorite spots!

Bear Mountain Bridge, NY

© Mihai Andritoiu | Dreamstime.com

Take in the stunning views from New York State's Bear Bridge Walkway, which stretches across the Hudson River. It's a popular route to explore via car or on foot.

Meteor Crater, AZ

© Oscity | Dreamstime.com

Find the world's best preserved meteorite impact site in Northern Arizona. What could be more romantic than viewing the earth-shattering result of a meteor that hit the Southwest 50,000 years ago?

Bonaventure Cemetery, GA

© Miroslav Liska | Dreamstime.com

Romance doesn't always look like flowers and roses. Take the time to visit Bonaventure Cemetery in Savannah, Georgia. Considered to be one of the most picturesque cemeteries in the US, the oak-lined paths and moss-covered grave stones are a must-see.

Point Reyes Lighthouse, CA

© Chris Labasco | Dreamstime.com

If you're visiting Northern California, then the Point Reyes Lighthouse should be one of your top sights. The views are undeniable and if the moderately challenging hike doesn't take your breath away, the sight of the crystal blue ocean certainly will!

Blue Whale of Catoosa, OK

© Jessica Dunham | Author of Moon Route 66

Nothing screams romance like a giant blue whale! The Blue Whale of Catoosa is a beloved landmark along Route 66. Surrounded by a lovely little pond and a thicket of trees, this quirky attraction makes for some great photos.

Bridge of Flowers, MA

© Lmphot | Dreamstime.com

If you find yourself in Shelburne Falls, Massachusetts between April and October, the Bridge of Flowers is a unique experience. During bloom season, the bridge is covered in a burst of color. Walk hand-in-hand down the footbridge with a loved one and experience true romance.

King Neptune at Neptune Park, VA

© Joseph Morelli | Dreamstime.com

Sunset on Virginia Beach is a sublime sight, ruled over by the statue of Neptune. Pay a visit to the king of the seas next time you're strolling along the boardwalk.


Start planning your road trip today!

Pin for later...

]]>
Bear Mountain bridge at night

February might be the month of romance, but there are plenty of gorgeous stops and lookout points to be enjoyed throughout the year. Plan your next romantic road trip with some of our favorite spots!

Bear Mountain Bridge, NY

© Mihai Andritoiu | Dreamstime.com

Take in the stunning views from New York State's Bear Bridge Walkway, which stretches across the Hudson River. It's a popular route to explore via car or on foot.

Meteor Crater, AZ

© Oscity | Dreamstime.com

Find the world's best preserved meteorite impact site in Northern Arizona. What could be more romantic than viewing the earth-shattering result of a meteor that hit the Southwest 50,000 years ago?

Bonaventure Cemetery, GA

© Miroslav Liska | Dreamstime.com

Romance doesn't always look like flowers and roses. Take the time to visit Bonaventure Cemetery in Savannah, Georgia. Considered to be one of the most picturesque cemeteries in the US, the oak-lined paths and moss-covered grave stones are a must-see.

Point Reyes Lighthouse, CA

© Chris Labasco | Dreamstime.com

If you're visiting Northern California, then the Point Reyes Lighthouse should be one of your top sights. The views are undeniable and if the moderately challenging hike doesn't take your breath away, the sight of the crystal blue ocean certainly will!

Blue Whale of Catoosa, OK

© Jessica Dunham | Author of Moon Route 66

Nothing screams romance like a giant blue whale! The Blue Whale of Catoosa is a beloved landmark along Route 66. Surrounded by a lovely little pond and a thicket of trees, this quirky attraction makes for some great photos.

Bridge of Flowers, MA

© Lmphot | Dreamstime.com

If you find yourself in Shelburne Falls, Massachusetts between April and October, the Bridge of Flowers is a unique experience. During bloom season, the bridge is covered in a burst of color. Walk hand-in-hand down the footbridge with a loved one and experience true romance.

King Neptune at Neptune Park, VA

© Joseph Morelli | Dreamstime.com

Sunset on Virginia Beach is a sublime sight, ruled over by the statue of Neptune. Pay a visit to the king of the seas next time you're strolling along the boardwalk.


Start planning your road trip today!

Pin for later...

]]>
Hiking and Camping in the Porcupine Mountains https://www.moon.com/travel/outdoors/hiking-camping-porcupine-mountains/ Wed, 31 Jan 2024 20:29:34 +0000 https://moon.com/?p=60410 Anchored along the Lake Superior shore in the northwest corner of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park (33303 Headquarters Rd., Ontonagon, 906/885-5275, annual Recreation Passport required, $11 Michigan residents, $31 nonresidents, day-use $9) covers 59,020 acres, the largest in Michigan’s excellent state park system. The Porcupine Mountains were considered for a national park in the 1940s and were quickly preserved as a state park in 1945 when loggers threatened their virgin timber before the federal government could take action.

Carp River runs through forest bright with fall colors
The Porkies will please casual hikers and hardcore backpackers alike. Photo © Shriram Patki/iStock.

Some years ago, the pitted and rugged landscape of low mountains and tall pines reminded locals of the silhouette of a porcupine. The name stuck, and today the area is endearingly dubbed “the Porkies.” It’s a destination for casual hikers and hard-core backpackers, with 90-plus miles of well-marked, well-maintained trails.

In this case, bigger also means better. The park preserves the largest tract of virgin hardwoods between the Rockies and Adirondacks and vast stands of virgin hemlock and pine, along with secluded lakes, wild rivers, and some of the Midwest’s highest peaks (Summit Peak tops out at 1,958 feet). The Porkies truly provide a sense of wilderness and serenity, an escape from the civilized world.

Hiking in the Porcupine Mountains

Many park visitors head immediately for the justly famous Lake of the Clouds Overlook. From the parking lot at the end of Highway 107, it’s just a few steps to the overlook, where the placid lake slices a long sliver of blue through a thick mat of jade forest hundreds of feet below. The view is the stuff postcards are made of and is probably the most photographed scene in the UP.

The overlook also serves as the trailhead for some the park’s most rugged and scenic routes. To properly soak in the Lake of the Clouds view, hike the aptly named Escarpment Trail, which winds east and skims over Cloud Peak and Cuyahoga Peak. Bordered by a sheer cliff, the four-mile trail is considered by many to be the most beautiful in the park. Allow ample time to stop and enjoy the shimmering lake and valley floor spreading out around you. If you’re fortunate enough to visit in the fall, the vista of color is beyond breathtaking.

Overlook of a verdant valley and blue lake.
Lake of the Clouds overlook. Photo © Svetlana Foote/Dreamstime.

Long before the Porcupine Mountains were preserved for their virgin timber and natural beauty, miners harvested the rich minerals buried in their bedrock. At the east end of the park, the Union Mine Trail provides a glimpse into the 1840s, when the Porkies pulsed with the excitement of the area’s copper rush. Marked with white mine shovels to indicate points of interest, this self-guided interpretive trail forms a one-mile loop along the spring-fed Union River and the site of an old copper mine, now largely swallowed by nature. In the shadow of lofty hemlocks, you’ll see how miners tunneled shafts into the riverbank, and learn about their life in the wilderness—still untamed today.

In winter, the park’s many hiking trails double as cross-country skiing trails. Be careful on the higher ones: On days when the strong north wind is blowing, you’ll feel the extreme cold.

cloudes over porcupine mountains as seen from Lake of the Clouds overlook
Many hikers head for the Lake of the Clouds Overlook for stunning views. Photo © Wirepec/iStock.

Camping in the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness

Campers have their choice of two campgrounds ($14-25), both with a number of sites overlooking Lake Superior: Union Bay (with full hookups and modern restrooms), at the east end of the park, or rustic Presque Isle (no hookups), near the mouth of the Presque Isle River on the park’s western edge. In addition, three rustic campgrounds (called “outposts”) with three to eight sites each are located off the South Boundary Road, accessible by car, but with no facilities. They tend to offer more privacy than the regular campgrounds.

As another option, the park has 19 hike-in rustic cabins ($65). These are great retreats after a day on the trail. They come with two to eight bunks, mattresses, a woodstove, basic utensils, and protection from the elements, but no electricity or running water. Bring your own stove for cooking. Cabins situated on inland lakes even come with a rowboat, so you can finish the day with a lazy drift across the water. Three yurts ($60) and a lodge are also available. Reservations (800/447-2757) at any of these can be made as much as a year in advance.

Getting to the Porkies

Two roads lead to Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, the headquarters of which lies about 58 miles northeast of Ironwood. From Wakefield, drive north on County Road 519, which leads to the park’s western edge and the Presque Isle River Area, a 17-mile trip that will take you about half an hour. From Bergland, reach the park headquarters via Highway 64 through Ottawa National Forest; arriving at Lake Superior, the road converges with Highway 107 near the park’s eastern boundary. Turn left onto Highway 107 toward the park headquarters, or continue toward the Lake of the Clouds Scenic Area; the 30-mile trip between Bergland and the park headquarters takes 40 minutes. South Boundary Road connects County Road 519 and Highway 64 along the southern edge of the park.

Start your visit at the park’s visitors center at the junction of Highway 107 and South Boundary Road. Rangers on duty can provide you with maps and suggest trails. A gift shop has topographic maps and a good selection of nature guidebooks.

Paul Vachon

About the Author

Lifelong Michigander Paul Vachon's introduction to the Upper Peninsula came as a childhood trip to the fascinating Soo Locks in Sault Ste. Marie. From that point forward, he developed a love for travel in general, and for Michigan in particular. Over the years, Paul has visited virtually every corner of the Great Lakes State. One of his favorite pastimes is heading "up north" on Interstate 75 to any of a myriad of Michigan destinations. Paul has also traveled extensively both within and outside of the U.S. His international destinations have included the U.S. Virgin Islands, Canada, Guatemala, Denmark, Italy, Israel and Egypt.
 
Paul began his writing career in 2008 and covers topics as diverse as travel, Detroit history, business, education, and green living. He is the author of three books on Detroit area history, Forgotten Detroit, South Oakland County and Legendary Locals of Detroit.
 
Paul lives with his wife Sheryl and their son Evan in Oak Park, a suburb of Detroit. You can learn more about Paul by visiting his website, http://www.paulvachonwrites.com.

Learn more about this author

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Image of lake with text Hiking and Camping in the Porcupine Mountains.
]]>
Visiting Isle Royale National Park https://www.moon.com/travel/national-parks/visiting-isle-royale-national-park/ Wed, 31 Jan 2024 20:29:08 +0000 http://moon.com?p=25471&preview_id=25471 While many national parks struggle with their fates as islands of wilderness surrounded by a more developed world, Isle Royale represents the opposite scenario. It has the advantage of a much larger buffer zone protecting it from outside encroachment and influence. As a result, it’s one of the most closely managed holdings in the national park system and presents some unique opportunities for conservation. Isle Royale is one of the few parks that regulates the number of visitors who pass through its gates. Though logistics have done a sufficient job of keeping numbers down thus far, the National Park Service could reduce the number further by cutting back on ferry service or on the number of campsites.

ferries in the harbor of Windigo, Michigan
Take a ferry from Grand Portage to Windigo in two hours. Photo © megasquib/iStock.

Limited access also allows the National Park Service to enforce rules more effectively. Dogs, for example, are not allowed on the island for fear they might bring rabies and other diseases to the island’s wolf pack. The National Park Service also takes great pains to preserve the island’s backcountry solitude, with a park brochure reminding hikers to “refrain from loud conversation,” “avoid songfests,” and “select equipment of subtle natural tones rather than conspicuous colorful gear.”

Getting to Isle Royale

If getting there is half the fun, you’ll be very excited by the time you arrive at Isle Royale. Travel to the island is not particularly convenient or cheap, which probably accounts for average visitor stays that are considerably longer than most other national park destinations. The average visit to Rocky Mountain National Park is a few hours; to Isle Royale, three days, including day trippers who flow off the ferry, wander around the harbor for a few hours, and leave that afternoon.

Many, however, come to appreciate even the trip to and from Isle Royale, a mental decompression chamber of sorts that eases the passage between island wilderness and the civilized world.

Your options for travel to Isle Royale are seaplane, ferry, or personal boat.

Ferry

The National Park Service operates the largest ferry, the 165-foot Ranger III, which has been in service since 1958. It departs from Houghton twice a week, at 9am Tuesday and Friday, from late May to mid-September, for the six-hour passage to Rock Harbor. The one-way cost is $63 adults, $23 ages 6-12, free under age 6. Canoes and kayaks are an additional $22-50 if they’re longer than 20 feet or weigh more than 90 pounds. Make reservations through the national park (906/482-0984, www.nps.gov/isro).

A blue ship in foreground with white and blue iron bridge in background.
The MV Ranger III sits at dock at the city of Houghton, Michigan. Ship belongs to the National Park Service and provides transportation to Isle Royale National Park. Portage Lake Lift Bridge sits in background. ©Bonita Cheshier, Dreamstime.

If you’d rather see more of the Keweenaw and spend less time on the ferry, drive another hour up the peninsula to Copper Harbor, where you can catch the Isle Royale Queen IV for a three-hour trip to Rock Harbor. It operates from mid-May through the end of September, with a varying schedule, adding additional departures as needed in July and August. The one-way cost is $65 adults, $33 under age 12. Canoes and kayaks are an additional $25. The Isle Royale Queen IV is highly reliable and has happily surprised weary backpackers by showing up to retrieve them on even the stormiest of days. But the ship richly deserves its nickname, “The Queasy.” In heavy seas, its hull can rock and roll at a pretty good pitch. To check the schedule and make reservations, contact the Isle Royale Line (906/289-4437).

A third and fourth ferry run from Grand Portage, Minnesota. The 65-foot MV Voyageur II (outbound Mon., Wed., and Sat., inbound Tues., Thurs., and Sun.). Outbound departures are at 7:30am central daylight time outbound and at 8am inbound. On its way to Rock Harbor, it circumnavigates the island, offering drop-off and pickup service along the way. This makes for a slow but interesting trip. Rates start at $71 one way, but vary depending on your selected destination. Voyageur II can also carry canoes and kayaks for an additional $37 each way.

The Sea Hunter III departs at 8:30am central daylight time on Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday from Grand Portage to Windigo in two hours, then returns four hours later for those interested in simply a day trip. Reserve a spot through Grand Portage-Isle Royale Transportation Line (651/653-5872 or 888/746-2305 Nov.-Apr., 218/475-0024 or 218/475-0074 May-Oct.).

Seaplane

Seaplane service by Isle Royale Seaplanes (21125 Royce Road, Hancock, 906/483-4991, $320 pp round-trip, $220 pp one-way) in Hancock is the most expensive and usually the quickest way to the island, although the 35-minute flight can often be delayed by wind and fog. The plane, a Cessna 206 amphibious seaplane, flies Thursday to Tuesday and can carry up to four passengers. The plane cannot carry stove fuel, but you can purchase it on the island at the park store. Luggage is limited to 50 pounds per passenger.

Private Boat

Arriving by private boat is popular in midsummer—perhaps a bit too popular for those who treasure the island’s solitude and resent the whine of powerboat engines. The Rock Harbor and Windigo marinas offer docking and refueling for powerboats and sailboats; boats also are allowed to drop anchor in a secluded bay overnight and save the marina fee. Protected harbors are plentiful on the east end of the island, although most remain exposed to an east wind, but are nonexistent on the west end. Every boat arriving at the island must first stop at a ranger station in Windigo or Rock Harbor to obtain a permit and pay the park user fee.

Those with boats under 20 feet should not to attempt a Lake Superior crossing. Even if you have a larger vessel, consider the passage only if you possess strong navigation skills and a good marine radio. Lake Superior has many ocean-like characteristics, and storms can appear with little notice.

General Information for Isle Royale

For general information on the park, camping, transportation options, and more, contact Isle Royale National Park (906/482-0984).

Isle Royale was one of the first national parks to charge a park user fee, currently $7 pp per day. If you’re traveling to the island by ferry or seaplane, the concessionaire will collect your fee. If you’re traveling by private boat, you can pay at the ranger station at Windigo or Rock Harbor, or at the Houghton Visitors Center prior to your departure.

The National Park Service has long discussed charging admission fees to national parks as a way to compensate for shortfalls in federal funding. In the past, all gate fees were fed back into the federal government’s general treasury, eliminating an incentive to levy a fee. With the new user-fee program, however, 80 percent of the monies gathered is spent at the collecting park. The remaining 20 percent is spent at national parks with priority maintenance projects. In Isle Royale’s case, that means hundreds of thousands of dollars that will be spent maintaining trails and repairing or replacing docks.

Isle Royale National Park

Paul Vachon

About the Author

Lifelong Michigander Paul Vachon's introduction to the Upper Peninsula came as a childhood trip to the fascinating Soo Locks in Sault Ste. Marie. From that point forward, he developed a love for travel in general, and for Michigan in particular. Over the years, Paul has visited virtually every corner of the Great Lakes State. One of his favorite pastimes is heading "up north" on Interstate 75 to any of a myriad of Michigan destinations. Paul has also traveled extensively both within and outside of the U.S. His international destinations have included the U.S. Virgin Islands, Canada, Guatemala, Denmark, Italy, Israel and Egypt.
 
Paul began his writing career in 2008 and covers topics as diverse as travel, Detroit history, business, education, and green living. He is the author of three books on Detroit area history, Forgotten Detroit, South Oakland County and Legendary Locals of Detroit.
 
Paul lives with his wife Sheryl and their son Evan in Oak Park, a suburb of Detroit. You can learn more about Paul by visiting his website, http://www.paulvachonwrites.com.

Learn more about this author

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Planning Your Time on Puerto Rico’s North Coast https://www.moon.com/travel/planning/planning-your-time-puerto-rico-north-coast/ Wed, 31 Jan 2024 20:10:39 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=33622 Aerial view of town along a beach with turquoise water.

The north coast of Puerto Rico is a wild expanse of rocky coastline, gorgeous ocean views, green farmlands, and hilly karst country. The unusual topography alone is worth the drive. A subterranean river and an intricate system of underground limestone caves have created enormous sinkholes and haystack hills—called mogotes—all along the coastline and farther inland. The best place to see them is at Cavernas del Río Camuy. It’s a stunning sight unlike anywhere else on the island.

Playa Sardinera in Hatillo. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.
Playa Sardinera in Hatillo. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Picturesque rocky shores and rough waters with strong currents make finding the ideal swimming spot a challenge on the north coast. Many beaches are better for looking at, walking along, or surfing at than for going swimming. But there are a few spectacular oceanside jewels worth seeking out—at the resorts in Dorado, at Punta Cerro Gordo in Vega Alta, and at Playa Mar Chiquita in Manatí. Meanwhile, the powerful waves along the north coast make for excellent surfing, especially around Manatí and Arecibo. The major sport in the area, though, is golf. Dorado is home to two world-class golf courses, just 30 minutes from San Juan.

It's worth noting that the north coast is also thick with industrial and commercial development, fast-food restaurants, road construction, and traffic. Despite the urban sprawl, though, the region has a lot going for it.

Planning Your Time

Puerto Rico’s north coast is a great place for a day trip, an overnight stay, or a long weekend. Thanks to two major roadways, it’s easily accessible whether you’re approaching it from San Juan or from the west coast.

Despite what you might think, PR 22, a multilane divided toll road with six tollbooths between San Juan and Arecibo, is the best route along the north coast. Although construction projects and commuter rush hours can slow your progress, it is the most expeditious route. The alternative is PR 2, a congested multilane commercial route that traverses the length of the island along the most unsightly stretch of urban sprawl. It should be avoided if possible.

Aerial view of town along a beach with turquoise water.
An aerial view of Dorado. Photo © Javier Cruz Acosta/Dreamstime.

Dorado is the easternmost municipality, about 27 kilometers (17 mi) and 30 minutes from San Juan. A popular vacation spot, it has lovely beaches, luxurious resorts, and world-class golf courses. Farther west are the municipalities of Vega Alta and Manatí, which have some spectacular beaches—Balneario Cerro Gordo and Playa Mar Chiquita, respectively—that are ideal for swimming.

One of the most popular attractions along the north coast is the Cavernas del Río Camuy, a park that's just under 1.5 hours from San Juan. In Arecibo, check out Cueva del Indio, an amazing geological and archaeological wonder featuring petrified sand dunes and Taíno petroglyphs.

The best selection of restaurants can be found at either end of the north coast, in Dorado and Arecibo. The best selection of accommodations is in Dorado.


Related Travel Guide

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Image of city by beach and text Planning Your Time on Puerto Rico's North Coast
]]>
Aerial view of town along a beach with turquoise water.

The north coast of Puerto Rico is a wild expanse of rocky coastline, gorgeous ocean views, green farmlands, and hilly karst country. The unusual topography alone is worth the drive. A subterranean river and an intricate system of underground limestone caves have created enormous sinkholes and haystack hills—called mogotes—all along the coastline and farther inland. The best place to see them is at Cavernas del Río Camuy. It’s a stunning sight unlike anywhere else on the island.

Playa Sardinera in Hatillo. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.
Playa Sardinera in Hatillo. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Picturesque rocky shores and rough waters with strong currents make finding the ideal swimming spot a challenge on the north coast. Many beaches are better for looking at, walking along, or surfing at than for going swimming. But there are a few spectacular oceanside jewels worth seeking out—at the resorts in Dorado, at Punta Cerro Gordo in Vega Alta, and at Playa Mar Chiquita in Manatí. Meanwhile, the powerful waves along the north coast make for excellent surfing, especially around Manatí and Arecibo. The major sport in the area, though, is golf. Dorado is home to two world-class golf courses, just 30 minutes from San Juan.

It's worth noting that the north coast is also thick with industrial and commercial development, fast-food restaurants, road construction, and traffic. Despite the urban sprawl, though, the region has a lot going for it.

Planning Your Time

Puerto Rico’s north coast is a great place for a day trip, an overnight stay, or a long weekend. Thanks to two major roadways, it’s easily accessible whether you’re approaching it from San Juan or from the west coast.

Despite what you might think, PR 22, a multilane divided toll road with six tollbooths between San Juan and Arecibo, is the best route along the north coast. Although construction projects and commuter rush hours can slow your progress, it is the most expeditious route. The alternative is PR 2, a congested multilane commercial route that traverses the length of the island along the most unsightly stretch of urban sprawl. It should be avoided if possible.

Aerial view of town along a beach with turquoise water.
An aerial view of Dorado. Photo © Javier Cruz Acosta/Dreamstime.

Dorado is the easternmost municipality, about 27 kilometers (17 mi) and 30 minutes from San Juan. A popular vacation spot, it has lovely beaches, luxurious resorts, and world-class golf courses. Farther west are the municipalities of Vega Alta and Manatí, which have some spectacular beaches—Balneario Cerro Gordo and Playa Mar Chiquita, respectively—that are ideal for swimming.

One of the most popular attractions along the north coast is the Cavernas del Río Camuy, a park that's just under 1.5 hours from San Juan. In Arecibo, check out Cueva del Indio, an amazing geological and archaeological wonder featuring petrified sand dunes and Taíno petroglyphs.

The best selection of restaurants can be found at either end of the north coast, in Dorado and Arecibo. The best selection of accommodations is in Dorado.


Related Travel Guide

Pin for Later

Image of city by beach and text Planning Your Time on Puerto Rico's North Coast
]]>
Planning Your Time on Vieques, Puerto Rico https://www.moon.com/travel/planning/planning-your-time-vieques-puerto-rico/ Wed, 31 Jan 2024 19:46:22 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=33752 A tropical palm branch in the foreground with turquoise beach in the background.

Vieques was devastated by Hurricane Maria in 2017, and it has been a long, hard slog to build back to where it was—and it’s still not 100 percent there. Living on Vieques isn’t easy, but residents depend on the tourist trade, so hotels and restaurants are back in business, and the beaches are as gorgeous as ever. Despite all it’s been through, Vieques retains the charm of a sleepy little island where life moves at a snail’s pace, cats and horses wander the island freely, and the only alarm clock you need is the crow of the roosters that run the place.

Vieques features miles of deserted beaches and bright blue water. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.
Vieques features miles of deserted beaches and bright blue water. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Just 21 miles long and 5 miles wide, Vieques is a natural wonderland. It is rimmed with wilderness beaches, untouched by commercial development, and bordered by coral reefs that teem with undersea life. Amid the island’s mangrove forests is Mosquito Bay, one of the world’s most spectacular bioluminescent bays. No visit to Vieques would be complete without a nighttime boat ride through luminescent blue waters. Inland Vieques is thickly forested hills and arid stretches of desert-like land. Bats are the only mammal native to Vieques, but other wildlife commonly found includes geckos, iguanas, frogs, pelicans, gulls, egrets, herons, doves, and horses, of course. Horses are a common mode of transportation in Vieques, and they can be seen following the same traffic laws as automobiles, stopping at four-way stops and so on. But they also graze and roam freely. The waters around the island are home to several endangered species, including the manatee and a variety of sea turtles, which nest on the beaches at night. About 60 percent of the island once belonged to the U.S. Navy, which used it for a training base. The Navy left in 2003, and the land was converted into a protected wildlife sanctuary–Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre de Vieques—managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Some of the island's most beautiful wilderness beaches are located here.

There are two primary communities on Vieques. On the north coast is Isabel Segunda, aka Isabel II, a traditional Puerto Rican town with a central plaza, an alcaldía (town hall), a post office, a grocery store, and a couple of banks and gas stations. It is also where the ferry from Ceiba docks. There are a few shops, restaurants, and hotels here that cater to visitors, but Isabel Segunda is primarily a town where the island's residents conduct their daily business.

On the south coast is Esperanza, a funky, bohemian enclave of residential homes, guesthouses, restaurants, and bars where tourists gravitate. It is home to Sun Bay, one of the most gorgeous publicly maintained beaches in all of Puerto Rico. The main hub of Esperanza is along the oceanfront stretch of Calle Flamboyán, distinguished by the picturesque malecón, a boardwalk with balustrades, benches, and pavilions. From here you can also see Cayo Afuera, a small islet within spitting distance that has excellent snorkeling on its western side. On the opposite side of the street is an inviting array of casual open-air bars and restaurants that overlook the water and grow lively with tourists and locals as sundown approaches. There are also a handful of boutiques and a couple of guesthouses in the area, as well as the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust, a modest institution but a great source of information on the island. There are a few things travelers should know when visiting Vieques. The island has one of the highest unemployment rates in the United States, and petty theft from parked cars is a problem. When in town, visitors are encouraged to keep their cars locked at all times and never leave anything visible inside. The greatest threat of car break-ins is at the beach. Always park your car as close to you as possible–preferably away from any bushes and within sight range.

A tropical palm branch in the foreground with turquoise beach in the background.
A beach on Vieques. Photo © Khecker/Dreamstime.

There is a rustic quality to life here. Restaurants tend to be open-air, even nice ones, so don't expect a respite from the heat and humidity at dinner. When using public facilities, plumbing issues require toilet paper be disposed of in trash receptacles instead of flushed, which can make for an odorous experience during the heat of the day. And if you think restaurant service is slow on the main island of Puerto Rico, you haven't seen anything yet. Many businesses close or curtail hours during low season. Just when "low season" occurs can be a topic of debate. To be safe, assume it's anything that isn't high season, which everyone seems to agree is mid-November through April. In fact, assume all hours of operation are more suggestions than fact. The secret to enjoying Vieques is to chill out and let things unfold in their own way and time.


Related Travel Guide

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Image of beach with text Planning Your Time on Vieques, PR
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A tropical palm branch in the foreground with turquoise beach in the background.

Vieques was devastated by Hurricane Maria in 2017, and it has been a long, hard slog to build back to where it was—and it’s still not 100 percent there. Living on Vieques isn’t easy, but residents depend on the tourist trade, so hotels and restaurants are back in business, and the beaches are as gorgeous as ever. Despite all it’s been through, Vieques retains the charm of a sleepy little island where life moves at a snail’s pace, cats and horses wander the island freely, and the only alarm clock you need is the crow of the roosters that run the place.

Vieques features miles of deserted beaches and bright blue water. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.
Vieques features miles of deserted beaches and bright blue water. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Just 21 miles long and 5 miles wide, Vieques is a natural wonderland. It is rimmed with wilderness beaches, untouched by commercial development, and bordered by coral reefs that teem with undersea life. Amid the island’s mangrove forests is Mosquito Bay, one of the world’s most spectacular bioluminescent bays. No visit to Vieques would be complete without a nighttime boat ride through luminescent blue waters. Inland Vieques is thickly forested hills and arid stretches of desert-like land. Bats are the only mammal native to Vieques, but other wildlife commonly found includes geckos, iguanas, frogs, pelicans, gulls, egrets, herons, doves, and horses, of course. Horses are a common mode of transportation in Vieques, and they can be seen following the same traffic laws as automobiles, stopping at four-way stops and so on. But they also graze and roam freely. The waters around the island are home to several endangered species, including the manatee and a variety of sea turtles, which nest on the beaches at night. About 60 percent of the island once belonged to the U.S. Navy, which used it for a training base. The Navy left in 2003, and the land was converted into a protected wildlife sanctuary–Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre de Vieques—managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Some of the island's most beautiful wilderness beaches are located here.

There are two primary communities on Vieques. On the north coast is Isabel Segunda, aka Isabel II, a traditional Puerto Rican town with a central plaza, an alcaldía (town hall), a post office, a grocery store, and a couple of banks and gas stations. It is also where the ferry from Ceiba docks. There are a few shops, restaurants, and hotels here that cater to visitors, but Isabel Segunda is primarily a town where the island's residents conduct their daily business.

On the south coast is Esperanza, a funky, bohemian enclave of residential homes, guesthouses, restaurants, and bars where tourists gravitate. It is home to Sun Bay, one of the most gorgeous publicly maintained beaches in all of Puerto Rico. The main hub of Esperanza is along the oceanfront stretch of Calle Flamboyán, distinguished by the picturesque malecón, a boardwalk with balustrades, benches, and pavilions. From here you can also see Cayo Afuera, a small islet within spitting distance that has excellent snorkeling on its western side. On the opposite side of the street is an inviting array of casual open-air bars and restaurants that overlook the water and grow lively with tourists and locals as sundown approaches. There are also a handful of boutiques and a couple of guesthouses in the area, as well as the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust, a modest institution but a great source of information on the island. There are a few things travelers should know when visiting Vieques. The island has one of the highest unemployment rates in the United States, and petty theft from parked cars is a problem. When in town, visitors are encouraged to keep their cars locked at all times and never leave anything visible inside. The greatest threat of car break-ins is at the beach. Always park your car as close to you as possible–preferably away from any bushes and within sight range.

A tropical palm branch in the foreground with turquoise beach in the background.
A beach on Vieques. Photo © Khecker/Dreamstime.

There is a rustic quality to life here. Restaurants tend to be open-air, even nice ones, so don't expect a respite from the heat and humidity at dinner. When using public facilities, plumbing issues require toilet paper be disposed of in trash receptacles instead of flushed, which can make for an odorous experience during the heat of the day. And if you think restaurant service is slow on the main island of Puerto Rico, you haven't seen anything yet. Many businesses close or curtail hours during low season. Just when "low season" occurs can be a topic of debate. To be safe, assume it's anything that isn't high season, which everyone seems to agree is mid-November through April. In fact, assume all hours of operation are more suggestions than fact. The secret to enjoying Vieques is to chill out and let things unfold in their own way and time.


Related Travel Guide

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Image of beach with text Planning Your Time on Vieques, PR
]]>
Driving La Ruta Panorámica https://www.moon.com/travel/road-trips/driving-la-ruta-panoramica/ Wed, 31 Jan 2024 17:51:07 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=33727 A highway winds through rolling green mountains.

You couldn’t ask for a better way to explore the Cordillera Central than to drive this 270-kilometer (165-mi) route from Mayagüez on the west coast to Yabucoa on the southeast coast. The route takes visitors to breathtaking heights on the island’s highest peaks, revealing panoramic views of both the Atlantic and the Caribbean, as well as the dramatic mountains and valleys that make up the island’s spine. Parts of the route are so remote you may not see another car for miles.

A highway winds through rolling green mountains.
Highway in Cayey, Puerto Rico. Photo © Javier Cruz Acosta/Dreamstime.

The well-maintained, well-marked, two-lane route traverses a network of secondary roads beginning on PR 105 in Mayagüez and ending on PR 182 in Yabucoa. It’s clearly marked on most maps, including the ubiquitous tourist map available at businesses throughout the island.

From end to end, the journey takes about six hours, not including stops, so plan to spend two days to see all the area has to offer.

Highlights along the way include Reserva Forestal de Carite in Cayey, Mirador Piedra Degetau in Aibonito, Mirador Orocovis-Villalba, Bosque Estatal de Toro Negro in Jayuya, and Bosque Estatal de Guilarte.

Most towns have at least one gas station. Cayey, Orocovis, Morovis, and Adjuntas are the best bets for dining. Recommended accommodations can be found in Cayey, Jayuya, and Utuado.

If you only want to explore part of the route, drive the PR 143 leg between Adjuntas and Barranquitas, which traverses the island’s highest mountains. The 68-kilometer (42-mi) route takes about 1.5 hours to drive.


Related Travel Guide

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Image of mountain highway with text Driving La Ruta Panorámica
]]>
A highway winds through rolling green mountains.

You couldn’t ask for a better way to explore the Cordillera Central than to drive this 270-kilometer (165-mi) route from Mayagüez on the west coast to Yabucoa on the southeast coast. The route takes visitors to breathtaking heights on the island’s highest peaks, revealing panoramic views of both the Atlantic and the Caribbean, as well as the dramatic mountains and valleys that make up the island’s spine. Parts of the route are so remote you may not see another car for miles.

A highway winds through rolling green mountains.
Highway in Cayey, Puerto Rico. Photo © Javier Cruz Acosta/Dreamstime.

The well-maintained, well-marked, two-lane route traverses a network of secondary roads beginning on PR 105 in Mayagüez and ending on PR 182 in Yabucoa. It’s clearly marked on most maps, including the ubiquitous tourist map available at businesses throughout the island.

From end to end, the journey takes about six hours, not including stops, so plan to spend two days to see all the area has to offer.

Highlights along the way include Reserva Forestal de Carite in Cayey, Mirador Piedra Degetau in Aibonito, Mirador Orocovis-Villalba, Bosque Estatal de Toro Negro in Jayuya, and Bosque Estatal de Guilarte.

Most towns have at least one gas station. Cayey, Orocovis, Morovis, and Adjuntas are the best bets for dining. Recommended accommodations can be found in Cayey, Jayuya, and Utuado.

If you only want to explore part of the route, drive the PR 143 leg between Adjuntas and Barranquitas, which traverses the island’s highest mountains. The 68-kilometer (42-mi) route takes about 1.5 hours to drive.


Related Travel Guide

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Image of mountain highway with text Driving La Ruta Panorámica
]]>
Europe’s Best Small Towns and Villages https://www.moon.com/travel/trip-ideas/europes-best-small-towns-and-villages/ Wed, 31 Jan 2024 15:43:21 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1504703

Step out of the urban city centers of Europe and escape the crowds. In every country you will be rewarded with villages and hamlets in places where, as cliche as it may seem, time really does seem to stand still.

Here are some of the best small towns and villages to visit on your next grand European journey:

Rothenburg, Germany

See it road-tripping Germany’s Romantische Strasse.

The colorful Bavarian town of Rothenburg invites wandering, especially at night. Photo © Xantana | Dreamstime.com

It is almost unfair to pick one of the medieval villages along Germany’s Romantische Strasse, or Romantic Road, which winds through the storied Black Forest, but nothing is maybe as romantic as walking the cobblestone streets of Rothenburg ob der Tauber at dusk in the warm glow of the evening lights, laughter echoing out into the night from friends cheering in a local tavern.

After the last tour buses leave for the evening, the fairytale charm of Rothenburg truly comes alive. Take the Nightwatchman Tour, where you stroll with the nightwatchman on patrol as in times of yore. Take this moment to feel transported and try to catch the sunset from Criminal’s Tower on the westside of the city.

Grasmere, England

See it on a hike through England’s Lake District.

Explore Grasmere and England's other charming Lake District towns on foot. Photo © Andrew Roland | Dreamstime.com

Among the most beautiful areas in all of Europe, England’s Lake District is a nature-lover’s paradise of twisting country lanes, incomparable hikes, and staggering vistas. Well known to the English and countless visitors for generations, it has been home to many great artists, who’ve captured its landscape in poetry, prose, and painting, finding inspiration in its always changing weather and light.

The word quaint does not begin to describe Grasmere, William Wordsworth’s former home in the Lake District. Perhaps that’s why he turned to poetry. You will be forgiven if you start speaking in sonnets.

Trakai, Lithuania

See it on a day trip from Vilnius.

All it takes is a short 30-minute bus ride from Vilnius to be plunged into the colorful village life of Lithuania in Trakai.

While here, make sure to visit the castle on the lake, historic Trakai Castle, which is about as romantic as it sounds: the restored 14th-century castle was once the home of the Dukes of Lithuania and is situated on a picture-perfect lake. Any time of year, this is a treat, whether in the ice and snow or beneath sunny summer skies.

Todi, Italy

See it when you visit Tuscany and Umbria.

Escape the tourist crowds in lesser-visited Todi. Photo © Jenifoto406 | Dreamstime.com

It is truly hard to pick just one Italian village on your trip to Italy. Though you could pick any of the five villages of Cinque Terre or pretty much anywhere in Tuscany, the pristine Umbrian village of Todi has a special charm to it because it is much less touched by tourism.

Remnants of ancient Etruscan, Roman, and medieval walls surround Todi, with one of the best-preserved historic centers in the region, and the narrow streets leading off the main square are an invitation for travelers to enter old shops that look out onto the surrounding countryside.


Adventure awaits in Europe

Fáskrúðsfjörður, Iceland

See it road-tripping Iceland’s Ring Road.

An intriguing stop on your Iceland trip, the charming Icelandic village of Fáskrúðsfjörður is one of the most unique in the country for its historical connections to French fishermen.

Nestled on a long fjord of the same name, this small village of fewer than 500 people is the most “French” part of Iceland: The village was originally a base for more than 5,000 French fishermen who came every year to fish, and some settled here in the late 19th century. The history remains in some of the architecture and in the streets themselves, marked in both Icelandic and French.

Pyrgos, Greece

See it island-hopping The Greek Islands.

Pyrgos is an essential stop on your Greek Islands tour. Photo © Dreamer4787 | Dreamstime.com

The former capital of Santorini, whitewashed Pyrgos is probably the best-preserved medieval settlement on the island—and one of its prettiest villages.

Catch the sunset from the top of the village at Kastelli of Pyrgos Kallistis. The best preserved of the five Venetian castles dotting Santorini, this castle was built in the 13th century. On your visit, keep your eye out for the so-called “murder hole” (fonissa in Greek) above the door, where boiling water or oil was poured over the heads of would-be intruders.

Flåm, Norway

See it on The Bergen Line, a scenic railway journey.

All aboard! The Flåm Railway offers scenic views of Norway's countryside. Photo © Dreamstime

The Norwegian village of Flåm sits at the end of the Aurlandsfjord, an unforgettable Nordic fantasia carved into the Nordic countryside.

Ride the Flåm Railway, a one-hour train trip that serves up natural beauty and engineering marvels, or take a fjord cruise to see this majestic town and surrounding countryside from the water.


]]>

Step out of the urban city centers of Europe and escape the crowds. In every country you will be rewarded with villages and hamlets in places where, as cliche as it may seem, time really does seem to stand still.

Here are some of the best small towns and villages to visit on your next grand European journey:

Rothenburg, Germany

See it road-tripping Germany’s Romantische Strasse.

The colorful Bavarian town of Rothenburg invites wandering, especially at night. Photo © Xantana | Dreamstime.com

It is almost unfair to pick one of the medieval villages along Germany’s Romantische Strasse, or Romantic Road, which winds through the storied Black Forest, but nothing is maybe as romantic as walking the cobblestone streets of Rothenburg ob der Tauber at dusk in the warm glow of the evening lights, laughter echoing out into the night from friends cheering in a local tavern.

After the last tour buses leave for the evening, the fairytale charm of Rothenburg truly comes alive. Take the Nightwatchman Tour, where you stroll with the nightwatchman on patrol as in times of yore. Take this moment to feel transported and try to catch the sunset from Criminal’s Tower on the westside of the city.

Grasmere, England

See it on a hike through England’s Lake District.

Explore Grasmere and England's other charming Lake District towns on foot. Photo © Andrew Roland | Dreamstime.com

Among the most beautiful areas in all of Europe, England’s Lake District is a nature-lover’s paradise of twisting country lanes, incomparable hikes, and staggering vistas. Well known to the English and countless visitors for generations, it has been home to many great artists, who’ve captured its landscape in poetry, prose, and painting, finding inspiration in its always changing weather and light.

The word quaint does not begin to describe Grasmere, William Wordsworth’s former home in the Lake District. Perhaps that’s why he turned to poetry. You will be forgiven if you start speaking in sonnets.

Trakai, Lithuania

See it on a day trip from Vilnius.

All it takes is a short 30-minute bus ride from Vilnius to be plunged into the colorful village life of Lithuania in Trakai.

While here, make sure to visit the castle on the lake, historic Trakai Castle, which is about as romantic as it sounds: the restored 14th-century castle was once the home of the Dukes of Lithuania and is situated on a picture-perfect lake. Any time of year, this is a treat, whether in the ice and snow or beneath sunny summer skies.

Todi, Italy

See it when you visit Tuscany and Umbria.

Escape the tourist crowds in lesser-visited Todi. Photo © Jenifoto406 | Dreamstime.com

It is truly hard to pick just one Italian village on your trip to Italy. Though you could pick any of the five villages of Cinque Terre or pretty much anywhere in Tuscany, the pristine Umbrian village of Todi has a special charm to it because it is much less touched by tourism.

Remnants of ancient Etruscan, Roman, and medieval walls surround Todi, with one of the best-preserved historic centers in the region, and the narrow streets leading off the main square are an invitation for travelers to enter old shops that look out onto the surrounding countryside.


Adventure awaits in Europe

Fáskrúðsfjörður, Iceland

See it road-tripping Iceland’s Ring Road.

An intriguing stop on your Iceland trip, the charming Icelandic village of Fáskrúðsfjörður is one of the most unique in the country for its historical connections to French fishermen.

Nestled on a long fjord of the same name, this small village of fewer than 500 people is the most “French” part of Iceland: The village was originally a base for more than 5,000 French fishermen who came every year to fish, and some settled here in the late 19th century. The history remains in some of the architecture and in the streets themselves, marked in both Icelandic and French.

Pyrgos, Greece

See it island-hopping The Greek Islands.

Pyrgos is an essential stop on your Greek Islands tour. Photo © Dreamer4787 | Dreamstime.com

The former capital of Santorini, whitewashed Pyrgos is probably the best-preserved medieval settlement on the island—and one of its prettiest villages.

Catch the sunset from the top of the village at Kastelli of Pyrgos Kallistis. The best preserved of the five Venetian castles dotting Santorini, this castle was built in the 13th century. On your visit, keep your eye out for the so-called “murder hole” (fonissa in Greek) above the door, where boiling water or oil was poured over the heads of would-be intruders.

Flåm, Norway

See it on The Bergen Line, a scenic railway journey.

All aboard! The Flåm Railway offers scenic views of Norway's countryside. Photo © Dreamstime

The Norwegian village of Flåm sits at the end of the Aurlandsfjord, an unforgettable Nordic fantasia carved into the Nordic countryside.

Ride the Flåm Railway, a one-hour train trip that serves up natural beauty and engineering marvels, or take a fjord cruise to see this majestic town and surrounding countryside from the water.


]]>
Travel Tuesday Giveaway https://www.moon.com/sweepstakes/travel-tuesday/ Wed, 31 Jan 2024 02:14:13 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1504207 Cover images of the books included in the sweepstakes.


Join Timber Press and Avalon Travel for a tour of the world’s most amazing sites with some of our most beloved travel titles!


This promotion is not currently available.


Grand Prize Package

  • Adventures in Eden by Carolyn Mullet
  • Gardenlust by Christopher Woods
  • Grand European Journeys by Moon Guides and Lucas Peters
  • Moon Norway by Lisa Stentvedt
  • Moon Portugal by Carrie-Marie Bratley
  • Our Natural World Heritage by UNESCO with a foreword by Christopher Woods
  • Wanderlust by Moon Guides

Can't wait to win? You don't have to. Buy from us or shop your favorite retailer below.


]]>
Cover images of the books included in the sweepstakes.


Join Timber Press and Avalon Travel for a tour of the world’s most amazing sites with some of our most beloved travel titles!


This promotion is not currently available.


Grand Prize Package

  • Adventures in Eden by Carolyn Mullet
  • Gardenlust by Christopher Woods
  • Grand European Journeys by Moon Guides and Lucas Peters
  • Moon Norway by Lisa Stentvedt
  • Moon Portugal by Carrie-Marie Bratley
  • Our Natural World Heritage by UNESCO with a foreword by Christopher Woods
  • Wanderlust by Moon Guides

Can't wait to win? You don't have to. Buy from us or shop your favorite retailer below.


]]>
Visiting Coamo and Salinas https://www.moon.com/travel/trip-ideas/visiting-coamo-and-the-coamo-hot-springs/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 23:58:40 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=11968 Coamo is a growing community in the hilly terrain just south of Puerto Rico’s majestic Cordillera Central mountain range. Its claim to fame, the Aguas de Termales de Coamo, is a natural hot spring reputed to have restorative powers. About 30 kilometers (19 mi) to the south, Salinas is a fishing village best known for its concentration of fresh seafood restaurants. This is an ideal area for a day trip from Ponce.

Sights

Bahía de Jobos Reserva Nacional de Investigación Estuarina is a 2,800-acre reserve of mangrove forests and freshwater wetlands, pocketed with lagoons, salt flats, and mud beds. It is home to the endangered brown pelican, peregrine falcon, hawksbill turtle, and West Indian manatee. The visitors center has been closed since Hurricane Maria, but the trails and kayak access remain open. This is a great spot for kayaking, although rentals are not available on-site. This area has become a political volleyball in recent years between environmentalists who want to protect it and developers who have been accused of filling in land, constructing buildings, and dumping sewage in the area.

Albergue Olímpico is the place to go for some outdoor family fun. In addition to a sprawling water park with waterfalls and slides, there is a miniature golf course and a rock climbing wall. Don’t miss the museum (daily 10am-5pm), featuring exhibits devoted to Puerto Rico’s Olympic athletes including tennis player Monica Puig, the island’s first gold medal winner. These attractions are part of a 1,500-acre complex that also contains athletic training facilities for swimming, tennis, boxing, fencing, track, and a school for athletically gifted 7th-12th graders.

Aguas de Termales de Coamo may well be Puerto Rico’s very first tourist attraction. The hot springs, which retain a constant 110°F temperature and are rich in minerals, were first discovered by the Taíno people, who shared their find with the Spanish colonists. By the mid-16th century, visitors were making their way here in a steady stream, and in the 17th century, a resort was built that operated until the 1950s. Wealthy people from all over the world visited Coamo, including the most illustrious U.S. proponent of hot springs himself, President Franklin D. Roosevelt. Today the complex is modern and pleasant, and there’s plenty of parking. There are two pools about 2.5 feet deep. The smaller one is filled with water directly from the thermal spring, and it is the warmer of the two. The larger one is diluted with cooler water. Amenities include a bathhouse, snack bar, gift shop, and picnic tables. The place gets crowded on weekends and holidays.


Related Travel Guide

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Planning Your Time in Puerto Rico’s Cordillera Central https://www.moon.com/travel/planning/planning-your-time-puerto-rico-cordillera-central/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 23:40:32 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=33726

It’s hard for some visitors to wrap their heads around the idea of spending their time in Puerto Rico not by the beach but in the mountains. That’s what makes the Cordillera Central, Puerto Rico’s central mountain region, one of the island’s greatest hidden gems.

Cordillera Central. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.
Cordillera Central. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Encompassing tropical jungles, waterfalls, rivers, caves, canyons, and peaks that top out at 4,390 feet (1,338 m) above sea level, the limestone mountain range spans the length of the island’s interior. The untamed natural beauty is a wonder to behold, but it’s not the only reason to visit. This is the place thrill seekers come to go hiking, rappelling, river rafting, and zip-lining, and it’s where history buffs go to explore the island’s Indigenous Taíno roots.

Accommodations tend to be more rustic here than in San Juan, and the service may not be up to some travelers' standards. But there are some unusual and unique places to stay, like a 19th-century coffee plantation in Jayuya, a culinary farm lodge in Cayey, and a 105-acre nature retreat among the peaks of Utuado. The restaurants may not be on the cutting edge of the latest culinary trends, but they serve some of the best pit-cooked roast pork you'll ever taste at lechoneras that specialize in the delicacy.

The Cordillera Central was hit especially hard during Hurricane Maria in 2017. A lot of the old-growth trees that towered over this region were toppled, making many roads unnavigable for months. Today, all major roads have reopened, and the foliage is rapidly filling back in, but a couple of the smaller, more remote state parks remain closed.

Planning Your Time

One of the great things about the Cordillera Central is that, because it spans the length of the island, it's easy to drive into the interior for a day from wherever you are.

On the east side of the island, PR 52 travels south from San Juan to Cayey, where you can head west on La Ruta Panorámica a short distance to Aibonito and Barranquitas. On the west side of the island, PR 10 runs south from Arecibo through the mountain towns of Utuado and Adjuntas, ending in Ponce on the south coast.

Ambitious travelers who want to journey the whole length of the Cordillera Central can drive La Ruta Panorámica, a designated route following a series of well-marked secondary roads that travel along the highest peaks, offering stunning views of mountains and sea. Due to the sometimes narrow, twisty roads and scenic points along the way, it can take the better part of the day to drive the 270-kilometer (165-mi) route one way.

A highway winds through rolling green mountains.
Highway in Cayey, Puerto Rico. Photo © Javier Cruz Acosta/Dreamstime.

The greatest number of dining options can be found on the eastern side of the mountain region along the Pork Highway, in Barrio Guavate, in the municipality of Cayey, where there is a high concentration of lechoneras roasting whole pigs over open fires. A number of chinchorros—casual, open-air restaurants serving cheap food and beer—proliferate in the side-by-side towns of Morovis and Orocovis, which are also rich in outdoor adventure activities, including zip-lining and canopy tours. Near the center of the region is San Cristóbal Cañon, a verdant canyon between Aibonito and Barranquitas, another popular spot for thrill seekers who are into challenging hikes and rappelling.

Jayuya is home to the island's highest peaks, but it’s best known as a center of Taíno culture, evident at La Piedra Escrita, a natural pool in Río Saliente featuring large boulders covered in Taíno petroglyphs, and Museo del Cemí, a unique museum shaped like a Taíno amulet containing Indian artifacts found in the area. Nearby in Utuado is Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Caguana, a major Indigenous archaeological site dating to CE 1100.

The Cordillera Central is home to several unique hotels, including a former coffee plantation in Jayuya; an off-the-grid yoga retreat in Utuado; and a culinary lodge on a farm in Cayey.

It rains often in the mountains and can be cool at night, so pack accordingly. And keep an eye on the weather. Heavy rains occasionally result in mudslides and flooding, which could close some roads. As you're driving, watch out for livestock. It’s not unusual to see a cow or horse tied up to a house right beside the road, and chickens are forever crossing the asphalt.


Related Travel Guide

Pin for Later

Image of mountain highway with text Planning Your Time in Puerto Rico's Cordillera Central
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It’s hard for some visitors to wrap their heads around the idea of spending their time in Puerto Rico not by the beach but in the mountains. That’s what makes the Cordillera Central, Puerto Rico’s central mountain region, one of the island’s greatest hidden gems.

Cordillera Central. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.
Cordillera Central. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Encompassing tropical jungles, waterfalls, rivers, caves, canyons, and peaks that top out at 4,390 feet (1,338 m) above sea level, the limestone mountain range spans the length of the island’s interior. The untamed natural beauty is a wonder to behold, but it’s not the only reason to visit. This is the place thrill seekers come to go hiking, rappelling, river rafting, and zip-lining, and it’s where history buffs go to explore the island’s Indigenous Taíno roots.

Accommodations tend to be more rustic here than in San Juan, and the service may not be up to some travelers' standards. But there are some unusual and unique places to stay, like a 19th-century coffee plantation in Jayuya, a culinary farm lodge in Cayey, and a 105-acre nature retreat among the peaks of Utuado. The restaurants may not be on the cutting edge of the latest culinary trends, but they serve some of the best pit-cooked roast pork you'll ever taste at lechoneras that specialize in the delicacy.

The Cordillera Central was hit especially hard during Hurricane Maria in 2017. A lot of the old-growth trees that towered over this region were toppled, making many roads unnavigable for months. Today, all major roads have reopened, and the foliage is rapidly filling back in, but a couple of the smaller, more remote state parks remain closed.

Planning Your Time

One of the great things about the Cordillera Central is that, because it spans the length of the island, it's easy to drive into the interior for a day from wherever you are.

On the east side of the island, PR 52 travels south from San Juan to Cayey, where you can head west on La Ruta Panorámica a short distance to Aibonito and Barranquitas. On the west side of the island, PR 10 runs south from Arecibo through the mountain towns of Utuado and Adjuntas, ending in Ponce on the south coast.

Ambitious travelers who want to journey the whole length of the Cordillera Central can drive La Ruta Panorámica, a designated route following a series of well-marked secondary roads that travel along the highest peaks, offering stunning views of mountains and sea. Due to the sometimes narrow, twisty roads and scenic points along the way, it can take the better part of the day to drive the 270-kilometer (165-mi) route one way.

A highway winds through rolling green mountains.
Highway in Cayey, Puerto Rico. Photo © Javier Cruz Acosta/Dreamstime.

The greatest number of dining options can be found on the eastern side of the mountain region along the Pork Highway, in Barrio Guavate, in the municipality of Cayey, where there is a high concentration of lechoneras roasting whole pigs over open fires. A number of chinchorros—casual, open-air restaurants serving cheap food and beer—proliferate in the side-by-side towns of Morovis and Orocovis, which are also rich in outdoor adventure activities, including zip-lining and canopy tours. Near the center of the region is San Cristóbal Cañon, a verdant canyon between Aibonito and Barranquitas, another popular spot for thrill seekers who are into challenging hikes and rappelling.

Jayuya is home to the island's highest peaks, but it’s best known as a center of Taíno culture, evident at La Piedra Escrita, a natural pool in Río Saliente featuring large boulders covered in Taíno petroglyphs, and Museo del Cemí, a unique museum shaped like a Taíno amulet containing Indian artifacts found in the area. Nearby in Utuado is Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Caguana, a major Indigenous archaeological site dating to CE 1100.

The Cordillera Central is home to several unique hotels, including a former coffee plantation in Jayuya; an off-the-grid yoga retreat in Utuado; and a culinary lodge on a farm in Cayey.

It rains often in the mountains and can be cool at night, so pack accordingly. And keep an eye on the weather. Heavy rains occasionally result in mudslides and flooding, which could close some roads. As you're driving, watch out for livestock. It’s not unusual to see a cow or horse tied up to a house right beside the road, and chickens are forever crossing the asphalt.


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Puerto Rican Culture: National Identity, Gender Roles, and Religion https://www.moon.com/travel/arts-culture/puerto-rican-culture-national-identity-gender-roles-religion/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 19:25:34 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=11966 The Puerto Rico flag flies over the capitol in San Juan.

Population

Today more Puerto Ricans live on the U.S. mainland than in Puerto Rico. The island’s population was already shrinking due to a double-digit unemployment rate prior to Hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017. After the storms, the population dropped to a 40- year low of 2.9 million, down from 3.6 million in 2014.

National Identity

In 2005 Puerto Ricans were proclaimed the happiest people on earth, according to a highly reported study by the Stockholm-based organization World Values Survey. There does seem to be a collective, fun-loving spirit and zest for life at the heart of Puerto Rican culture, despite the challenges residents endure. Puerto Ricans tend to celebrate big and often. There are more than 500 festivals a year on the island, and everything is a family affair involving multiple generations of relatives. Music and food are at the center of most gatherings.

But don’t mistake the joie de vivre for frivolity. There are many great thinkers and artists from Puerto Rico. Many locals tend to be very passionate about their opinions and are happy to debate politics or sports for hours. They are also exceedingly proud of their island and their heritage. The Puerto Rican flag is ubiquitous on the island.

The Puerto Rico flag flies over the capitol in San Juan.
Photo © Jiawangkun/Dreamstime.

The island’s culture has been significantly shaped by its history. It was originally inhabited by a society of peaceful, agriculturally based Indigenous people who migrated to the island from South America. But beginning in 1508, the island became a Spanish colony, and for the next four centuries, European influence reigned. Towns were developed around central plazas and churches, according to Spanish custom. The church spread Catholicism, and Spanish became the official language.

Because the majority of colonists were men, the Spanish Crown officially supported marriage between Spanish men and Taíno women, leading to a population of mixed-race offspring. The Spanish also brought enslaved laborers to the island from Africa to work the island’s many coffee and sugar plantations. These laborers also produced offspring with the Taíno and Spanish colonists, resulting in a further blending of races.

Because of this historic mixing of races, Puerto Ricans often claim there is no racial disparity on the island, but recently there have been reports of racial profiling of those of African descent among law enforcement.

When the United States took control of Puerto Rico in 1898, the island underwent another enormous cultural transformation. Suddenly U.S. customs and practices were imposed. English became a common second language, and has at times been proclaimed the official language. The U.S. dollar became the legal tender. American corporations set up shop, bringing with them an influx of mainland Americans, whose ways of dress, cuisine, and art were integrated into the existing culture. Much of this influence is from those in the military. Some people credit that influence for the relative stability and orderliness of public life on the island. Visitors will not be accosted by hordes of people hawking souvenirs in Puerto Rico, like in some islands. The island’s governmental and judicial systems are organized similarly to the United States, and many U.S. social services are offered on the island.

Inroads of contemporary American culture have been made into much of island life, but Puerto Ricans are fiercely proud of their Spanish heritage. Since becoming a U.S. territory a little more than 100 years ago, Puerto Rico has undergone a seismic shift in its national identity that has divided the island politically. Puerto Ricans are U.S. citizens, and they enjoy many—but not all—the privileges that entails. The issue of Puerto Rico’s future political status has been an ongoing debate for more than 50 years, and it is as much a part of the island’s national identity as its Spanish language and customs.

Gender Roles

When it comes to gender roles, Puerto Ricans are fairly traditional. However, as in the rest of the industrial world, women have made inroads into leadership positions in the formerly male worlds of business, politics and sports.

Those who identify as LGBTQ enjoy the same rights as heterosexual individuals. Legally, transgender people are permitted to change the gender on their birth certificates and a third gender is recognized, but tensions surrounding gender fluidity have been known to turn violent. In 2021, Puerto Rico had the highest transgender murder rate in the United States. That same year the governor issued a state of emergency over gender violence that included an awareness campaign to educate and sensitize the public.

Religion

Before the arrival of Christopher Columbus in 1493, Puerto Rico’s Indigenous population was composed of highly spiritual individuals who worshipped multiple gods believed to reside in nature. It was a common belief that these gods controlled everything from the success or failure of crops to one’s choice of a spouse.

All that began to change when Ponce de León arrived in 1508, bringing with him several Roman Catholic priests who ministered to the new colony and set about converting the Taínos to the faith, beginning with baptisms. In 1511 Pope Julius II created a diocese in Caparra, the island’s first settlement.

Priest's hands.
Celebration of the Holy Mass at Catholic parish Virgen de la Monserrate in Moca, Puerto Rico. © Héctor Hernández, Dreamstime.

Today, depending on the source, Puerto Rico’s population is between 75 and 85 percent Roman Catholic. Although weekly church attendance is far below that figure, the Catholic Church has great influence on Puerto Rican life. Each town has a Catholic church at its center and celebrates its patron saint with an annual festival. Although many patron-saint festivals have become much more secular over time, they typically include a religious procession and special Mass to mark the day. Images of saints are common items in traditional households.

Some Puerto Ricans practice a hybrid form of religion called espiritismo, which combines elements of the Catholic religion and Indigenous beliefs in nature-dwelling spirits that can be called on to effect change in one’s life. Similarly, some Puerto Ricans of African descent practice Santería, introduced to the island by West Africans. It also observes multiple gods and combines elements of Catholicism. Practitioners of both religions patronize the island’s botanicas, stores that sell roots, herbs, candles, soaps, and amulets that are employed to sway the spirits to help individuals achieve success, whether it be in business, love, or starting a family.

Once the United States arrived in Puerto Rico in 1898, Protestantism began to grow on the island, and all major sects are represented. Pentecostal fundamentalism has developed in recent decades, and there is a small Jewish community on the island as well.

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The Puerto Rico flag flies over the capitol in San Juan.

Population

Today more Puerto Ricans live on the U.S. mainland than in Puerto Rico. The island’s population was already shrinking due to a double-digit unemployment rate prior to Hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017. After the storms, the population dropped to a 40- year low of 2.9 million, down from 3.6 million in 2014.

National Identity

In 2005 Puerto Ricans were proclaimed the happiest people on earth, according to a highly reported study by the Stockholm-based organization World Values Survey. There does seem to be a collective, fun-loving spirit and zest for life at the heart of Puerto Rican culture, despite the challenges residents endure. Puerto Ricans tend to celebrate big and often. There are more than 500 festivals a year on the island, and everything is a family affair involving multiple generations of relatives. Music and food are at the center of most gatherings.

But don’t mistake the joie de vivre for frivolity. There are many great thinkers and artists from Puerto Rico. Many locals tend to be very passionate about their opinions and are happy to debate politics or sports for hours. They are also exceedingly proud of their island and their heritage. The Puerto Rican flag is ubiquitous on the island.

The Puerto Rico flag flies over the capitol in San Juan.
Photo © Jiawangkun/Dreamstime.

The island’s culture has been significantly shaped by its history. It was originally inhabited by a society of peaceful, agriculturally based Indigenous people who migrated to the island from South America. But beginning in 1508, the island became a Spanish colony, and for the next four centuries, European influence reigned. Towns were developed around central plazas and churches, according to Spanish custom. The church spread Catholicism, and Spanish became the official language.

Because the majority of colonists were men, the Spanish Crown officially supported marriage between Spanish men and Taíno women, leading to a population of mixed-race offspring. The Spanish also brought enslaved laborers to the island from Africa to work the island’s many coffee and sugar plantations. These laborers also produced offspring with the Taíno and Spanish colonists, resulting in a further blending of races.

Because of this historic mixing of races, Puerto Ricans often claim there is no racial disparity on the island, but recently there have been reports of racial profiling of those of African descent among law enforcement.

When the United States took control of Puerto Rico in 1898, the island underwent another enormous cultural transformation. Suddenly U.S. customs and practices were imposed. English became a common second language, and has at times been proclaimed the official language. The U.S. dollar became the legal tender. American corporations set up shop, bringing with them an influx of mainland Americans, whose ways of dress, cuisine, and art were integrated into the existing culture. Much of this influence is from those in the military. Some people credit that influence for the relative stability and orderliness of public life on the island. Visitors will not be accosted by hordes of people hawking souvenirs in Puerto Rico, like in some islands. The island’s governmental and judicial systems are organized similarly to the United States, and many U.S. social services are offered on the island.

Inroads of contemporary American culture have been made into much of island life, but Puerto Ricans are fiercely proud of their Spanish heritage. Since becoming a U.S. territory a little more than 100 years ago, Puerto Rico has undergone a seismic shift in its national identity that has divided the island politically. Puerto Ricans are U.S. citizens, and they enjoy many—but not all—the privileges that entails. The issue of Puerto Rico’s future political status has been an ongoing debate for more than 50 years, and it is as much a part of the island’s national identity as its Spanish language and customs.

Gender Roles

When it comes to gender roles, Puerto Ricans are fairly traditional. However, as in the rest of the industrial world, women have made inroads into leadership positions in the formerly male worlds of business, politics and sports.

Those who identify as LGBTQ enjoy the same rights as heterosexual individuals. Legally, transgender people are permitted to change the gender on their birth certificates and a third gender is recognized, but tensions surrounding gender fluidity have been known to turn violent. In 2021, Puerto Rico had the highest transgender murder rate in the United States. That same year the governor issued a state of emergency over gender violence that included an awareness campaign to educate and sensitize the public.

Religion

Before the arrival of Christopher Columbus in 1493, Puerto Rico’s Indigenous population was composed of highly spiritual individuals who worshipped multiple gods believed to reside in nature. It was a common belief that these gods controlled everything from the success or failure of crops to one’s choice of a spouse.

All that began to change when Ponce de León arrived in 1508, bringing with him several Roman Catholic priests who ministered to the new colony and set about converting the Taínos to the faith, beginning with baptisms. In 1511 Pope Julius II created a diocese in Caparra, the island’s first settlement.

Priest's hands.
Celebration of the Holy Mass at Catholic parish Virgen de la Monserrate in Moca, Puerto Rico. © Héctor Hernández, Dreamstime.

Today, depending on the source, Puerto Rico’s population is between 75 and 85 percent Roman Catholic. Although weekly church attendance is far below that figure, the Catholic Church has great influence on Puerto Rican life. Each town has a Catholic church at its center and celebrates its patron saint with an annual festival. Although many patron-saint festivals have become much more secular over time, they typically include a religious procession and special Mass to mark the day. Images of saints are common items in traditional households.

Some Puerto Ricans practice a hybrid form of religion called espiritismo, which combines elements of the Catholic religion and Indigenous beliefs in nature-dwelling spirits that can be called on to effect change in one’s life. Similarly, some Puerto Ricans of African descent practice Santería, introduced to the island by West Africans. It also observes multiple gods and combines elements of Catholicism. Practitioners of both religions patronize the island’s botanicas, stores that sell roots, herbs, candles, soaps, and amulets that are employed to sway the spirits to help individuals achieve success, whether it be in business, love, or starting a family.

Once the United States arrived in Puerto Rico in 1898, Protestantism began to grow on the island, and all major sects are represented. Pentecostal fundamentalism has developed in recent decades, and there is a small Jewish community on the island as well.

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Environmental Issues in Puerto Rico https://www.moon.com/travel/outdoors/environmental-issues-in-puerto-rico/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 18:51:05 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=11965

Because Puerto Rico is part of the United States, local industry is subject to the same federal environmental regulations and restrictions as in the United States.

Endangered Puerto Rican parrot ceremonially released at the new flight cage of the flight cages at the Iguaca Aviary. Saturday April 28, 2007 Photo by Tom MacKenzie

Puerto Rico’s greatest environmental threats concern its vanishing natural habitat and the resulting impact on soil erosion and wildlife. Reforestation efforts are underway in many of the island’s national parks and forest reserves, and organized efforts are underway to protect and rebuild endangered wildlife populations, especially the Puerto Rican parrot, the manatee, and the leatherback sea turtle.

Many of the island’s environmental protection efforts are overseen by the Conservation Trust of Puerto Rico, whose headquarters is based in Casa de Ramón Power y Girault (155 Calle Tetuán, San Juan, 787/722-5834, Tues.-Sat. 10 a.m.-4 p.m.), where visitors can peruse exhibits and pick up printed information on its projects. The organization leads a variety of educational tours throughout the island and has launched an initiative to expand protected territory through land acquisition.

In Vieques, the biggest environmental concern surrounds the ongoing cleanup of the grounds once occupied by the U.S. Navy, which stored munitions and performed bombing practice on the island. After years of protest by local residents, the Navy withdrew in 2003, but much of its land (18,000 acres) is still off-limits to the public while efforts to clear it of contaminants and the live artillery that still litters the ocean floor are underway. The cancer rate in Vieques is 27 percent higher than that of the main island, and many blame it on the presence of unexploded artillery leaking chemicals into the water and the release of chemicals into the air when the artillery is detonated, which is the Navy’s way of disposing of it. The Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust (138 Calle Flamboyán, Esperanza, 787/741-8850 or 787/741-2844, Mon.-Fri. 8am-4pm, free but donations accepted) oversees conservation projects on the island.

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Image of boat on water with text Environmental Issues in Puerto Rico
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Because Puerto Rico is part of the United States, local industry is subject to the same federal environmental regulations and restrictions as in the United States.

Endangered Puerto Rican parrot ceremonially released at the new flight cage of the flight cages at the Iguaca Aviary. Saturday April 28, 2007 Photo by Tom MacKenzie

Puerto Rico’s greatest environmental threats concern its vanishing natural habitat and the resulting impact on soil erosion and wildlife. Reforestation efforts are underway in many of the island’s national parks and forest reserves, and organized efforts are underway to protect and rebuild endangered wildlife populations, especially the Puerto Rican parrot, the manatee, and the leatherback sea turtle.

Many of the island’s environmental protection efforts are overseen by the Conservation Trust of Puerto Rico, whose headquarters is based in Casa de Ramón Power y Girault (155 Calle Tetuán, San Juan, 787/722-5834, Tues.-Sat. 10 a.m.-4 p.m.), where visitors can peruse exhibits and pick up printed information on its projects. The organization leads a variety of educational tours throughout the island and has launched an initiative to expand protected territory through land acquisition.

In Vieques, the biggest environmental concern surrounds the ongoing cleanup of the grounds once occupied by the U.S. Navy, which stored munitions and performed bombing practice on the island. After years of protest by local residents, the Navy withdrew in 2003, but much of its land (18,000 acres) is still off-limits to the public while efforts to clear it of contaminants and the live artillery that still litters the ocean floor are underway. The cancer rate in Vieques is 27 percent higher than that of the main island, and many blame it on the presence of unexploded artillery leaking chemicals into the water and the release of chemicals into the air when the artillery is detonated, which is the Navy’s way of disposing of it. The Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust (138 Calle Flamboyán, Esperanza, 787/741-8850 or 787/741-2844, Mon.-Fri. 8am-4pm, free but donations accepted) oversees conservation projects on the island.

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Image of boat on water with text Environmental Issues in Puerto Rico
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Itinerary: The Best of Puerto Rico in One Week https://www.moon.com/travel/planning/itinerary-best-of-puerto-rico-one-week/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 18:45:01 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=32352

It would take at least a month to fully explore Puerto Rico, but this one-week whirlwind tour gives visitors a little taste of everything the island has to offer: beaches, nature preserves, historic architecture, surf and dive spots, and golf.

Colorful buildings along a cobblestone street.
Viejo San Juan, Puerto Rico. Photo © Sorin Colac/Dreamstime.

Day 1: Viejo San Juan

Arrive the night before and plan to spend your whole first day in Viejo San Juan, starting with café con leche and a mallorca for breakfast at Cafeteria Mallorca. Wander the cobblestone streets and shop for hand-rolled cigars at El Galpón and The Cigar House or vejigante masks at Puerto Rican Arts and Crafts.

For lunch, fuel up on the sampler platter of fritters at Deaverdura, then tour one of the Spanish forts, Castillo San Felipe del Morro or Castillo de San Cristóbal. In the afternoon, sip on a craft cocktail at Antiguo 26.

For dinner, feast on lamb tagine and lobster risotto at Marmaladethen enjoy an after-dinner cocktail at La Factoria. Explore the neighborhood’s maze of secret bars, including Shing-a-Ling, a late-night salsa bar.

Day 2: El Yunque National Forest

Panoramic view of lush green rainforest and mountains.
El Yunque National Forest. ©Dennis Van De Water/Dreamstime.

Be sure to book your timed tickets to visit El Yunque ahead of time. Rent a car and drive to the town of Palmer. Dine on waffles or a breakfast burrito at Lluvia, then head south to El Portal de El Yunque, the striking visitors center. Hit the road again, stopping along the way at La Coca Falls and Yokahu Tower to admire the views.

From the Palo Colorado Visitors Center, follow the signs on a short, two-minute walk to see Baño Grande, a stone pool built in the 1930s. Hikers will want to drive south to the closed gate and take the strenuous hike to Mount Britton Tower. From here, intrepid hikers can continue to the summit of El Yunque.

If you have energy left, drive to the Luquillo kioskos and lunch on a variety of fritters, then head next door to Playa Luquillo and spend the afternoon swimming and sunning at one of the island’s most beautiful beaches. Drive back to San Juan and freshen up before dining at Semilla Kitchen & Bar in Condado.

Day 3: Santurce

Take a taxi or Uber to Calle Cerra in Santurce and have breakfast at MUSA. Stroll up and down Calle Cerra, admiring the incredible street murals. Tour Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico and view its art collection spanning from the 17th century to the present.

Order lunch at the window of a bright yellow storage container at Tresbé, and find a shady table on the deck to dine on pinchos, ceviche, and tamarind chicken wings.

Next, explore the Loíza neighborhood. Stroll along Calle Loíza, shopping at boutiques and thrift stores such as Len T. Juela and Electroshock. Head to Lote 23 food truck park for dinner and dine on pork sandwiches and frosty cocktails.

In the evening, join the street party at La Placita. Order a drink from a sidewalk bar and wander the streets people-watching and dancing to salsa music.

Day 4: Fajardo

Drive an hour east from San Juan to Fajardo and enjoy a brunch of coconut pancakes or eggs Benedict while admiring the views at Las Vistas Café. Take a water taxi to one of the small islands in the Reserva Natural La Cordillera, and spend the day swimming and sunning on a deserted beach.

In the afternoon, take a sunset cocktail cruise on a catamaran. For dinner, dine on smoked meats and grilled seafood at La EstaciónStay the night at the Fajardo Inn.

Day 5: Vieques

Wake up early and head to the airport in Ceiba. Catch a 10-minute flight to Vieques. Grab a cup of coffee and a pastry at Isla Nena Café at the airport while you wait for your rental car.

Explore the historic sites of El Fortín Conde de Mirasol and El Faro Punta Mulas, and visit the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust. Enjoy a Cuban sandwich at Panadería La Viequense, then take a horseback ride on the beach with Esperanza Riding Company.

The delicious Cuban sandwich. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Have an early dinner of Caribbean-inspired Mexican cuisine at Coqui Fire Café. After dark, take a bio-bay kayak tour of Mosquito Bay. Toast your adventure over a craft beer at Duffy's EsperanzaStay the night at Malecón House.

Day 6: Culebra

Enjoy a breakfast of avocado toast and fruit smoothie at Rising Roost Market & Café, then hop the 7-minute flight back to Ceiba and catch a 12-minute flight to Culebra. Snorkel with sea turtles on a guided tour with Kayaking Puerto Rico.

Dine on a burrito at Zaco’s Tacos for lunch, then spend the afternoon swimming and sunning at Playa Flamenco. For dinner, chow down on Asian-influenced Caribbean cuisine at Susie’s Restaurant and drink your dessert in the form of a bushwhacker cocktail at Mamacita’s. Stay the night at Club Seabourne.

Day 7: Caguas and Cayey

Catch a flight to Ceiba, pick up your rental car, and drive to Caguas and visit Jardín Botánico y Cultural de Caguas. Take a short scenic drive through the mountains along the Ruta del Lechón in Cayey and stop at Los Pinos lechonera to feast on roast pork with chicharrón, pasteles, rice and beans, and tostones.

Go for a swim at Charco Azul, a natural freshwater pool, then head back to San Juan and say goodbye to the island.

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Image of rainforest with text One Week Puerto Rico Itinerary
]]>

It would take at least a month to fully explore Puerto Rico, but this one-week whirlwind tour gives visitors a little taste of everything the island has to offer: beaches, nature preserves, historic architecture, surf and dive spots, and golf.

Colorful buildings along a cobblestone street.
Viejo San Juan, Puerto Rico. Photo © Sorin Colac/Dreamstime.

Day 1: Viejo San Juan

Arrive the night before and plan to spend your whole first day in Viejo San Juan, starting with café con leche and a mallorca for breakfast at Cafeteria Mallorca. Wander the cobblestone streets and shop for hand-rolled cigars at El Galpón and The Cigar House or vejigante masks at Puerto Rican Arts and Crafts.

For lunch, fuel up on the sampler platter of fritters at Deaverdura, then tour one of the Spanish forts, Castillo San Felipe del Morro or Castillo de San Cristóbal. In the afternoon, sip on a craft cocktail at Antiguo 26.

For dinner, feast on lamb tagine and lobster risotto at Marmaladethen enjoy an after-dinner cocktail at La Factoria. Explore the neighborhood’s maze of secret bars, including Shing-a-Ling, a late-night salsa bar.

Day 2: El Yunque National Forest

Panoramic view of lush green rainforest and mountains.
El Yunque National Forest. ©Dennis Van De Water/Dreamstime.

Be sure to book your timed tickets to visit El Yunque ahead of time. Rent a car and drive to the town of Palmer. Dine on waffles or a breakfast burrito at Lluvia, then head south to El Portal de El Yunque, the striking visitors center. Hit the road again, stopping along the way at La Coca Falls and Yokahu Tower to admire the views.

From the Palo Colorado Visitors Center, follow the signs on a short, two-minute walk to see Baño Grande, a stone pool built in the 1930s. Hikers will want to drive south to the closed gate and take the strenuous hike to Mount Britton Tower. From here, intrepid hikers can continue to the summit of El Yunque.

If you have energy left, drive to the Luquillo kioskos and lunch on a variety of fritters, then head next door to Playa Luquillo and spend the afternoon swimming and sunning at one of the island’s most beautiful beaches. Drive back to San Juan and freshen up before dining at Semilla Kitchen & Bar in Condado.

Day 3: Santurce

Take a taxi or Uber to Calle Cerra in Santurce and have breakfast at MUSA. Stroll up and down Calle Cerra, admiring the incredible street murals. Tour Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico and view its art collection spanning from the 17th century to the present.

Order lunch at the window of a bright yellow storage container at Tresbé, and find a shady table on the deck to dine on pinchos, ceviche, and tamarind chicken wings.

Next, explore the Loíza neighborhood. Stroll along Calle Loíza, shopping at boutiques and thrift stores such as Len T. Juela and Electroshock. Head to Lote 23 food truck park for dinner and dine on pork sandwiches and frosty cocktails.

In the evening, join the street party at La Placita. Order a drink from a sidewalk bar and wander the streets people-watching and dancing to salsa music.

Day 4: Fajardo

Drive an hour east from San Juan to Fajardo and enjoy a brunch of coconut pancakes or eggs Benedict while admiring the views at Las Vistas Café. Take a water taxi to one of the small islands in the Reserva Natural La Cordillera, and spend the day swimming and sunning on a deserted beach.

In the afternoon, take a sunset cocktail cruise on a catamaran. For dinner, dine on smoked meats and grilled seafood at La EstaciónStay the night at the Fajardo Inn.

Day 5: Vieques

Wake up early and head to the airport in Ceiba. Catch a 10-minute flight to Vieques. Grab a cup of coffee and a pastry at Isla Nena Café at the airport while you wait for your rental car.

Explore the historic sites of El Fortín Conde de Mirasol and El Faro Punta Mulas, and visit the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust. Enjoy a Cuban sandwich at Panadería La Viequense, then take a horseback ride on the beach with Esperanza Riding Company.

The delicious Cuban sandwich. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Have an early dinner of Caribbean-inspired Mexican cuisine at Coqui Fire Café. After dark, take a bio-bay kayak tour of Mosquito Bay. Toast your adventure over a craft beer at Duffy's EsperanzaStay the night at Malecón House.

Day 6: Culebra

Enjoy a breakfast of avocado toast and fruit smoothie at Rising Roost Market & Café, then hop the 7-minute flight back to Ceiba and catch a 12-minute flight to Culebra. Snorkel with sea turtles on a guided tour with Kayaking Puerto Rico.

Dine on a burrito at Zaco’s Tacos for lunch, then spend the afternoon swimming and sunning at Playa Flamenco. For dinner, chow down on Asian-influenced Caribbean cuisine at Susie’s Restaurant and drink your dessert in the form of a bushwhacker cocktail at Mamacita’s. Stay the night at Club Seabourne.

Day 7: Caguas and Cayey

Catch a flight to Ceiba, pick up your rental car, and drive to Caguas and visit Jardín Botánico y Cultural de Caguas. Take a short scenic drive through the mountains along the Ruta del Lechón in Cayey and stop at Los Pinos lechonera to feast on roast pork with chicharrón, pasteles, rice and beans, and tostones.

Go for a swim at Charco Azul, a natural freshwater pool, then head back to San Juan and say goodbye to the island.

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Where to Catch Live Music in Puerto Rico https://www.moon.com/travel/trip-ideas/live-music-hot-spots-puerto-rico/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 18:39:07 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=32355 If you want to hear live music in Puerto Rico, you’re in luck. There are festivals nearly every weekend throughout the island, and music is always a major component. On weekends and holidays, parks and plazas are filled with the sounds of salsa, bomba, and plena music. To make an evening of it, try these popular hot spots.

Balcon del Zumbador is a casual, authentic beachside bar hosting concerts by top old-school salsa artists and bands. Photo © Marco Zanferrari, licensed Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike.
  • Balcon del Zumbador: This old-fashioned, rustic beachside bar in Piñones is the place to dance to old-school salsa bands. On Sundays starting at 6pm, hear bomba and plena musicians perform.
  • La Respuesta: At the nexus of all that is hip in Santurce is La Respuesta, a graffiti-covered industrial space that hosts DJs, live bands, and art exhibitions that celebrate both emerging young artists and oldsters with an edge. Musical acts run the gamut from hip-hop and R&B to metal and Latin jazz. By day this place looks like an abandoned warehouse, but it’s smokin’ at night.
  • Shing-a-Ling: Hidden in a labyrinth of speakeasy-style bars in Viejo San Juan, Shing-a-Ling is a late-night club that’s great for salsa dancing to live music on Sundays .
  • La Vergüenza: The street outside this dive bar on the edge of Viejo San Juan turns into a lively outdoor dance party on Sundays from 3pm to 8pm when a salsa band performs in a vacant lot across the street .
  • La Terraza de Bonanza: On Monday nights starting at 7pm, this open-air chinchorro in Santurce becomes the hottest place in town to see live bomba and plena performances.

Suzanne Van Atten

About the Author

Suzanne Van Atten has written about destinations throughout the United States, Mexico, South America, the Caribbean, and Europe. She has barhopped in Barcelona, slept in a Jesuit monastery on the Amalfi coast, crewed a hot air balloon in New Mexico, gone white-water rafting in Tennessee, and gotten lost too many times to count.

Amidst all these travels, she always returns to Puerto Rico, a place she fell in love with when she lived there as a teenager. The country’s rich culture, postcard-perfect beaches, lush tropical jungle, cobblestone streets, pastel colors, lively music, and the joie de vivre of its people colluded to seduce her. No matter how many times she returns, she always discovers something new and delightful.

Suzanne is a creative writing instructor, an editor for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, and a Pushcart Prize-nominated essayist who’s been published in the Gettysburg Review, The Chattahoochee Review, and Full Grown People.

Learn more about this author

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The Climate and Geography of Puerto Rico https://www.moon.com/travel/planning/the-climate-and-geography-of-puerto-rico/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 18:17:50 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=11964

Geography of Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico is a rectangular island, situated roughly in the middle of the Antilles, a chain of islands that stretches from Florida to Venezuela and forms the dividing line between the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. The Antilles are divided into two regions—Greater Antilles and Lesser Antilles. Puerto Rico is the smallest and easternmost island of the Greater Antilles, which include Cuba, Hispaniola (Dominican Republic and Haiti), and Jamaica.

In addition to the main island, which is 111 miles east to west and 36 miles north to south, Puerto Rico comprises several tiny islands or cayos, including Mona and Desecheo off the west coast and Vieques, Culebra, Palomino, Icacos, and others off the east coast. The northern and eastern shores of Puerto Rico are on the Atlantic Ocean, and the southern shores are on the Caribbean Sea. To the west is Mona Passage, an important shipping lane that is 75 miles wide and 3,300 feet deep.

Image of low islands and sand bars in turquoise sea from above.
Aerial view of Culebra, Puerto Rico. ©Lauren Orr, Dreamstime.

The island is believed to have been formed between 135 million and 185 million years ago when a massive shift of tectonic plates crumpled the earth’s surface, pushing parts of it down into deep recesses below the ocean floor and pushing parts of it up to create the island. This tectonic activity resulted in volcanic eruptions, both underwater and above it.

Two significant things happened as a result of all this geologic activity. The Puerto Rico Trench was formed off the island’s north coast. At its greatest depth, it is 5.3 miles below sea level, making it the deepest point known in the Atlantic Ocean. Secondly, it formed the mountainous core of Puerto Rico that spans the island east to west and reaches heights of 4,390 feet above sea level. Volcanic activity is believed to have been dormant in Puerto Rico for 45 million years, but the earth is always changing. The Caribbean plate is shifting eastward against the westward-shifting North American plate, which results in occasional earth tremors. Beginning in December 2019, the island has experienced continuous earthquake activity in its southwest corner around Ponce and Guánica. Most quakes are minor tremors, but on January 7, 2020, a 6.7-magnitude quake killed one person and forced 4,000 people to seek emergency shelter.

Puerto Rico has three main geographic regions: mountains, coastal lowlands, and karst country. More than 60 percent of the island is mountainous. The mountains, which dominate the island’s interior, comprise four ranges: Cordillera Central, Sierra de Cayey, Sierra de Luquillo, and Sierra de Bermeja. The largest and highest range is Cordillera Central, which spans from Caguas in the east to Lares in the west. Its highest point is Cerro Punta (4,390 feet above sea level), in the Bosque Estatal de Toro Negro near Jayuya. Sierra de Luquillo is in the northeast and contains El Yunque National Forest, home to El Yunque rainforest. These two mountain ranges feature dramatic pointed peaks and lush tropical vegetation. Sierra de Cayey, in the southeast between Cayey and Humacao, and Sierra de Bermeja, in the southwest between Guánica and the island’s southwestern tip, are smaller in area and height, drier, and less forested.

Lush green mountains covered in jungle.
Amazing view over the jungle forests in the hills of central Puerto Rico in summer. ©Dennis Van De Water, Dreamstime.

The coastal lowlands span more than 300 miles around the rim of the island, 8-12 miles inland in the north and 2-8 miles inland in the south. Formed over time by erosion of the mountains, the coastal lowlands are important agricultural areas that benefit from the rich soil and water that wash down from the mountains. Much of the area is defined by sandy or rocky beaches and mangrove swamps, although mangrove forests are being whittled away by development.

The island’s third region is unique. The karst region spans the island’s northern interior, from San Juan in the east to Aguadilla in the west, and the southern interior, from Ponce in the east to San Germán in the west. It can also be found in isolated pockets throughout the island, as well as on Mona Island off the west coast. The karst region is distinguished by a fascinating landscape of sinkholes, cliffs, caves, and conical, haystack-shaped hills called mogotes. More than 27 percent of Puerto Rico’s surface is made up of limestone, and its erosion from rain helped create the beguiling patchwork of hills and holes. One of limestone’s unique properties is that it re-precipitates and forms case rock that is impervious to chemical and climatic change, which has basically frozen the odd formations in time. In addition, water produced by re-precipitation bubbles up to hydrate the earth’s surface, and drips down, creating subterranean rivers and caves.

As a result of its karst region, Puerto Rico has some of the most significant cave systems in the western hemisphere and the third-largest underground river, Río Camuy. Las Cavernas del Río Camuy is a massive cave system in the municipality of Camuy easily accessible to visitors.

In addition to Río Camuy, Puerto Rico’s other major rivers include the north-running Grande de Arecibo, the island’s longest; La Plata, Cibuco, Loíza, and Bayamón, which run north; and Grande de Añasco, which runs west. There are no natural lakes in Puerto Rico, although 15 reservoirs have been created by damming rivers. But there are several natural lagoons, including Condado and San José in San Juan, Piñones and Torrecilla in Loíza, Joyuda in Cabo Rojo, Tortuguero in Vega Baja, and Grande in Fajardo.

Puerto Rico's Climate

Puerto Rico’s climate is classified as tropical marine, which means it’s typically sunny, hot, and humid year-round. The temperature fluctuates between 76°F and 88°F in the coastal plains and 73°F and 78°F in the mountains. Humidity is a steady 80 percent, but a northeasterly wind keeps things pretty breezy, particularly on the northeast side of the island.

Nobody wants rain during a tropical vacation, but precipitation is very much a part of life in Puerto Rico. Although there are periods when the deluge is so heavy that you might think it’s time to buy a boat, rains are generally brief and occur in the afternoons. The average annual rainfall is 62 inches. Although it rains throughout the year, the heaviest precipitation is from May to October, which overlaps with hurricane season, spanning June through November. The driest period is January to April, which coincides with the tourism industry’s high season throughout much of the island. Keep in mind that the north coast receives twice as much rain as the south coast, so if the outlook is rainy in San Juan, head south.

White utility trucks on a road in a forest.
Utility trucks with aerial lifts help electrical workers repair power lines near Palmer, Puerto Rico. ©Pamela Brick, Dreamstime.

As the devastation of Hurricane Maria in 2017 and Hurricane Fiona in 2022 illustrated, tropical storms pose a very real threat to Puerto Rico. Much of the island was without electrical power for an entire year following Hurricane Maria, a category 4 storm that did $139 billion worth of damage to the island. An estimated 3,000 people died either as a direct result of the storm or because of medical complications due to lack of electricity.

Hurricane Maria was considered a “storm of the century,” meaning it was highly irregular and far from the norm. The previous biggest storm was Hurricane Georges, a category 3 that struck in 1998 and did $2 billion of damage. But then came Hurricane Fiona in 2022. Although the storm was only a category 1 when it struck the island, it dumped an unprecedented 30 inches of rain in some areas, creating widespread flooding and knocking out electricity and water for lengthy periods. Fiona caused millions of dollars in damage and was responsible for dozens of deaths. The sobering reality is that with climate change, these catastrophic storms may become more frequent.

According to the U.S. National Weather Service, hurricane season in the Caribbean spans from June through November, but August through October is when Puerto Rico is most vulnerable. Historically, the island has experienced its most devastating hurricanes during September.

For the latest information on weather conditions in Puerto Rico, visit the National Weather Service.

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Geography of Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico is a rectangular island, situated roughly in the middle of the Antilles, a chain of islands that stretches from Florida to Venezuela and forms the dividing line between the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. The Antilles are divided into two regions—Greater Antilles and Lesser Antilles. Puerto Rico is the smallest and easternmost island of the Greater Antilles, which include Cuba, Hispaniola (Dominican Republic and Haiti), and Jamaica.

In addition to the main island, which is 111 miles east to west and 36 miles north to south, Puerto Rico comprises several tiny islands or cayos, including Mona and Desecheo off the west coast and Vieques, Culebra, Palomino, Icacos, and others off the east coast. The northern and eastern shores of Puerto Rico are on the Atlantic Ocean, and the southern shores are on the Caribbean Sea. To the west is Mona Passage, an important shipping lane that is 75 miles wide and 3,300 feet deep.

Image of low islands and sand bars in turquoise sea from above.
Aerial view of Culebra, Puerto Rico. ©Lauren Orr, Dreamstime.

The island is believed to have been formed between 135 million and 185 million years ago when a massive shift of tectonic plates crumpled the earth’s surface, pushing parts of it down into deep recesses below the ocean floor and pushing parts of it up to create the island. This tectonic activity resulted in volcanic eruptions, both underwater and above it.

Two significant things happened as a result of all this geologic activity. The Puerto Rico Trench was formed off the island’s north coast. At its greatest depth, it is 5.3 miles below sea level, making it the deepest point known in the Atlantic Ocean. Secondly, it formed the mountainous core of Puerto Rico that spans the island east to west and reaches heights of 4,390 feet above sea level. Volcanic activity is believed to have been dormant in Puerto Rico for 45 million years, but the earth is always changing. The Caribbean plate is shifting eastward against the westward-shifting North American plate, which results in occasional earth tremors. Beginning in December 2019, the island has experienced continuous earthquake activity in its southwest corner around Ponce and Guánica. Most quakes are minor tremors, but on January 7, 2020, a 6.7-magnitude quake killed one person and forced 4,000 people to seek emergency shelter.

Puerto Rico has three main geographic regions: mountains, coastal lowlands, and karst country. More than 60 percent of the island is mountainous. The mountains, which dominate the island’s interior, comprise four ranges: Cordillera Central, Sierra de Cayey, Sierra de Luquillo, and Sierra de Bermeja. The largest and highest range is Cordillera Central, which spans from Caguas in the east to Lares in the west. Its highest point is Cerro Punta (4,390 feet above sea level), in the Bosque Estatal de Toro Negro near Jayuya. Sierra de Luquillo is in the northeast and contains El Yunque National Forest, home to El Yunque rainforest. These two mountain ranges feature dramatic pointed peaks and lush tropical vegetation. Sierra de Cayey, in the southeast between Cayey and Humacao, and Sierra de Bermeja, in the southwest between Guánica and the island’s southwestern tip, are smaller in area and height, drier, and less forested.

Lush green mountains covered in jungle.
Amazing view over the jungle forests in the hills of central Puerto Rico in summer. ©Dennis Van De Water, Dreamstime.

The coastal lowlands span more than 300 miles around the rim of the island, 8-12 miles inland in the north and 2-8 miles inland in the south. Formed over time by erosion of the mountains, the coastal lowlands are important agricultural areas that benefit from the rich soil and water that wash down from the mountains. Much of the area is defined by sandy or rocky beaches and mangrove swamps, although mangrove forests are being whittled away by development.

The island’s third region is unique. The karst region spans the island’s northern interior, from San Juan in the east to Aguadilla in the west, and the southern interior, from Ponce in the east to San Germán in the west. It can also be found in isolated pockets throughout the island, as well as on Mona Island off the west coast. The karst region is distinguished by a fascinating landscape of sinkholes, cliffs, caves, and conical, haystack-shaped hills called mogotes. More than 27 percent of Puerto Rico’s surface is made up of limestone, and its erosion from rain helped create the beguiling patchwork of hills and holes. One of limestone’s unique properties is that it re-precipitates and forms case rock that is impervious to chemical and climatic change, which has basically frozen the odd formations in time. In addition, water produced by re-precipitation bubbles up to hydrate the earth’s surface, and drips down, creating subterranean rivers and caves.

As a result of its karst region, Puerto Rico has some of the most significant cave systems in the western hemisphere and the third-largest underground river, Río Camuy. Las Cavernas del Río Camuy is a massive cave system in the municipality of Camuy easily accessible to visitors.

In addition to Río Camuy, Puerto Rico’s other major rivers include the north-running Grande de Arecibo, the island’s longest; La Plata, Cibuco, Loíza, and Bayamón, which run north; and Grande de Añasco, which runs west. There are no natural lakes in Puerto Rico, although 15 reservoirs have been created by damming rivers. But there are several natural lagoons, including Condado and San José in San Juan, Piñones and Torrecilla in Loíza, Joyuda in Cabo Rojo, Tortuguero in Vega Baja, and Grande in Fajardo.

Puerto Rico's Climate

Puerto Rico’s climate is classified as tropical marine, which means it’s typically sunny, hot, and humid year-round. The temperature fluctuates between 76°F and 88°F in the coastal plains and 73°F and 78°F in the mountains. Humidity is a steady 80 percent, but a northeasterly wind keeps things pretty breezy, particularly on the northeast side of the island.

Nobody wants rain during a tropical vacation, but precipitation is very much a part of life in Puerto Rico. Although there are periods when the deluge is so heavy that you might think it’s time to buy a boat, rains are generally brief and occur in the afternoons. The average annual rainfall is 62 inches. Although it rains throughout the year, the heaviest precipitation is from May to October, which overlaps with hurricane season, spanning June through November. The driest period is January to April, which coincides with the tourism industry’s high season throughout much of the island. Keep in mind that the north coast receives twice as much rain as the south coast, so if the outlook is rainy in San Juan, head south.

White utility trucks on a road in a forest.
Utility trucks with aerial lifts help electrical workers repair power lines near Palmer, Puerto Rico. ©Pamela Brick, Dreamstime.

As the devastation of Hurricane Maria in 2017 and Hurricane Fiona in 2022 illustrated, tropical storms pose a very real threat to Puerto Rico. Much of the island was without electrical power for an entire year following Hurricane Maria, a category 4 storm that did $139 billion worth of damage to the island. An estimated 3,000 people died either as a direct result of the storm or because of medical complications due to lack of electricity.

Hurricane Maria was considered a “storm of the century,” meaning it was highly irregular and far from the norm. The previous biggest storm was Hurricane Georges, a category 3 that struck in 1998 and did $2 billion of damage. But then came Hurricane Fiona in 2022. Although the storm was only a category 1 when it struck the island, it dumped an unprecedented 30 inches of rain in some areas, creating widespread flooding and knocking out electricity and water for lengthy periods. Fiona caused millions of dollars in damage and was responsible for dozens of deaths. The sobering reality is that with climate change, these catastrophic storms may become more frequent.

According to the U.S. National Weather Service, hurricane season in the Caribbean spans from June through November, but August through October is when Puerto Rico is most vulnerable. Historically, the island has experienced its most devastating hurricanes during September.

For the latest information on weather conditions in Puerto Rico, visit the National Weather Service.

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Image of green mountains with text Puerto Rico's Climate and Geography
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Shopping in Puerto Rico’s Old San Juan https://www.moon.com/travel/trip-ideas/shopping-in-puerto-ricos-old-san-juan/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 18:07:50 +0000 http://moon.type5.co/?p=788 Image of round fountain in plaza with colorful buildings behind it.

Visitors love to shop in Viejo San Juan because it offers the widest variety of unique shopping options in one pedestrian-friendly place. This is the place to go for fine jewelry, imported clothing and furnishings, cigars, folk art, and tourist trinkets.

Image of round fountain in plaza with colorful buildings behind it.
Plaza de Armas, town square with water fountain in the city center of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico. ©Nancy Pauwels, Dreamstime.

Arts and Crafts

For high-quality crafts by local artisans, Puerto Rican Arts and Crafts is your one-stop shopping spot. This large two-level store has everything from original paintings and prints to ceramics, sculpture, jewelry, and more.

For a small selection of exquisitely made, authentic Caribbean crafts, stop by the Museum Store in the Museo de las AmericasIt has a nice but small selection of high-quality baskets, shawls, pottery, jewelry, santos, art posters, and CDs.

Máscaras de Puerto Rico is a funky, narrow shop in a covered alleyway known as La Calle selling quality contemporary crafts, including masks and small reproductions of vintage cartel posters. In the back is Café El Punto restaurant, serving traditional Puerto Rican cuisine.

Spicy Caribbee sells Caribbean sauces, spice mixes, coffees, soaps, fragrances, candles, cookbooks, and more.

Artesanía Mundo Taíno is your source for traditional crafts by local artisans. Look for vejigante masks, carved wood santos, paintings, jewelry made from seeds and beads, reproductions of Taíno artifacts, coffee, honey, candy, and T-shirts.

Artisans markets, selling locally crafted jewelry, leather goods, gourd art, musical instruments, paintings, and cigars, are often held at two plazas in Viejo San Juan: Plaza Dársenas (Calle Comercio by La Casita) and Plaza Eugenio María de Hostos (between Calle San Justo and Calle Tizol). Don’t be surprised if there’s also live entertainment and a food truck or two.

Cigars

Like Cuba, Puerto Rico has a long history of hand-rolled cigar-making, and you can sometimes find street vendors rolling and selling their own in Plaza de Hostos’s Mercado de Artesanías, a plaza near the cruise ship piers at Calle Recinto Sur. There are also several good cigar shops selling anything you could want—except Cubans, of course.

Find a large selection at The Cigar Housewhich also has an inviting smoking lounge. Trinidad, Monte Cristo, Padron 1926 and 1964, Cohiba, Perdomo, Macanudo, Partagas, Romeo and Julieta, and Puerto Rican cigars aged in rum are among those sold.

For an intimate setting, visit El GalpónThis small, selective shop sells a variety of quality cigars, Panama hats, designer ball caps, masks, art prints, and superb vintage and contemporary santos.

Clothing and Accessories

Concalma is a chic shop specializing in locally made tote bags, purses, pouches, belt bags, and backpacks. The variety of fabrics and patterns range from playful to sophisticated.

Almacenes Fernandez has been selling men’s fine clothing since 1917. The store specializes in exquisite linen shirts, guayaberas, Panama hats, and Sperry Topsider shoes. Look for brands by Cubavera and Spazio.

Since 1977, Olé has been selling quality Panama hats made in Ecuador. For $80, shoppers can select a style, have it fitted, and pick a band to finish it off. The store also stocks new and vintage carved wood santos from Puerto Rico, Ecuador, and Chile.

Jewelry

Viejo San Juan is home to a dozen or so fine jewelry stores selling high-end watches and jewelry made from precious stones and metals. Many of them can be found along Calle Fortaleza, including Blue Diamond , which carries designs by Kabana, Gucci, Le Vian, and Movado.

Local jewelry designer Laura Lugo sells her delicate gold, gold-filled, and gold-plated necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, inspired by the sea and nautical themes, at her boutique Lucaalong with a small selection of sophisticated women’s clothing and jewelry from designers in Australia, Japan, Italy, and Puerto Rico.

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Picture of plaza with text shopping in Old San Juan
]]>
Image of round fountain in plaza with colorful buildings behind it.

Visitors love to shop in Viejo San Juan because it offers the widest variety of unique shopping options in one pedestrian-friendly place. This is the place to go for fine jewelry, imported clothing and furnishings, cigars, folk art, and tourist trinkets.

Image of round fountain in plaza with colorful buildings behind it.
Plaza de Armas, town square with water fountain in the city center of Old San Juan, Puerto Rico. ©Nancy Pauwels, Dreamstime.

Arts and Crafts

For high-quality crafts by local artisans, Puerto Rican Arts and Crafts is your one-stop shopping spot. This large two-level store has everything from original paintings and prints to ceramics, sculpture, jewelry, and more.

For a small selection of exquisitely made, authentic Caribbean crafts, stop by the Museum Store in the Museo de las AmericasIt has a nice but small selection of high-quality baskets, shawls, pottery, jewelry, santos, art posters, and CDs.

Máscaras de Puerto Rico is a funky, narrow shop in a covered alleyway known as La Calle selling quality contemporary crafts, including masks and small reproductions of vintage cartel posters. In the back is Café El Punto restaurant, serving traditional Puerto Rican cuisine.

Spicy Caribbee sells Caribbean sauces, spice mixes, coffees, soaps, fragrances, candles, cookbooks, and more.

Artesanía Mundo Taíno is your source for traditional crafts by local artisans. Look for vejigante masks, carved wood santos, paintings, jewelry made from seeds and beads, reproductions of Taíno artifacts, coffee, honey, candy, and T-shirts.

Artisans markets, selling locally crafted jewelry, leather goods, gourd art, musical instruments, paintings, and cigars, are often held at two plazas in Viejo San Juan: Plaza Dársenas (Calle Comercio by La Casita) and Plaza Eugenio María de Hostos (between Calle San Justo and Calle Tizol). Don’t be surprised if there’s also live entertainment and a food truck or two.

Cigars

Like Cuba, Puerto Rico has a long history of hand-rolled cigar-making, and you can sometimes find street vendors rolling and selling their own in Plaza de Hostos’s Mercado de Artesanías, a plaza near the cruise ship piers at Calle Recinto Sur. There are also several good cigar shops selling anything you could want—except Cubans, of course.

Find a large selection at The Cigar Housewhich also has an inviting smoking lounge. Trinidad, Monte Cristo, Padron 1926 and 1964, Cohiba, Perdomo, Macanudo, Partagas, Romeo and Julieta, and Puerto Rican cigars aged in rum are among those sold.

For an intimate setting, visit El GalpónThis small, selective shop sells a variety of quality cigars, Panama hats, designer ball caps, masks, art prints, and superb vintage and contemporary santos.

Clothing and Accessories

Concalma is a chic shop specializing in locally made tote bags, purses, pouches, belt bags, and backpacks. The variety of fabrics and patterns range from playful to sophisticated.

Almacenes Fernandez has been selling men’s fine clothing since 1917. The store specializes in exquisite linen shirts, guayaberas, Panama hats, and Sperry Topsider shoes. Look for brands by Cubavera and Spazio.

Since 1977, Olé has been selling quality Panama hats made in Ecuador. For $80, shoppers can select a style, have it fitted, and pick a band to finish it off. The store also stocks new and vintage carved wood santos from Puerto Rico, Ecuador, and Chile.

Jewelry

Viejo San Juan is home to a dozen or so fine jewelry stores selling high-end watches and jewelry made from precious stones and metals. Many of them can be found along Calle Fortaleza, including Blue Diamond , which carries designs by Kabana, Gucci, Le Vian, and Movado.

Local jewelry designer Laura Lugo sells her delicate gold, gold-filled, and gold-plated necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, inspired by the sea and nautical themes, at her boutique Lucaalong with a small selection of sophisticated women’s clothing and jewelry from designers in Australia, Japan, Italy, and Puerto Rico.

Pin it for Later

Picture of plaza with text shopping in Old San Juan
]]>
Hiking El Yunque National Forest in Puerto Rico https://www.moon.com/travel/outdoors/hiking-el-yunque-caribbean-national-forest-puerto-rico/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 17:23:17 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=33567 Panoramic view of lush green rainforest and mountains.

El Yunque National Forest is the crown jewel of Puerto Rico’s natural treasures and a hiker's paradise. The only tropical rainforest in the United States, it encompasses 29,000 acres and contains some of the only virgin forest remaining on the island. This ecologically diverse wonderland is home to thousands of native plants, including 150 fern species and 240 tree species, and a variety of birds and reptiles.

Panoramic view of lush green rainforest and mountains.
El Yunque National Forest. ©Dennis Van De Water/Dreamstime.

Some parts of the forest receive up to 240 inches of rain a year, and the average temperature is 73°F (23°C). Spanning the park is the Sierra de Luquillo, a steep and densely forested mountain range. The highest peak is El Toro at 3,526 feet (1,075 m) above sea level; the second-highest peak is El Yunque at 3,461 feet (1,055 m).

Entry and Tickets

The best way to access El Yunque is to visit the well-maintained La Mina Recreation Area, managed by the U.S. Forest Service. La Mina is in the municipality of Río Grande. The national forest actually spans multiple other municipalities, including Canóvanas, Luquillo, Las Piedras, and Naguabo. Efforts are underway to develop access to El Yunque from these municipalities.

Entrance requires a ticket ($2 per vehicle) purchased in advance. Tickets are sold one day at a time, five weeks in advance. It’s a good idea to purchase tickets as early as possible. If your desired day is sold out, check back early the day before, when additional tickets are sometimes released. Tickets are sold for two time slots: 8am-11am and 11am-2pm. Visitors can enter anytime within their time slot and can stay until closing at 5pm.

On PR 191, the road that winds through El Yunque, there’s a checkpoint where a park employee will check your ticket.

If you can’t get a ticket on your own, check with your hotel concierge or book a tour with an independent tour operator; tours start around $50 per person.

Getting There

From San Juan, allow 45 minutes to drive 47 kilometers (29 mi) east to El Yunque via PR 6, then east on PR 66, and east on PR 3. From PR 3, turn south on PR 191, the main thoroughfare through the forest, which travels up into the mountains past the recreational facilities and trailheads for 13 kilometers (8 mi) until it ends about 2 kilometers (1 mi) from the peak.

El Yunque is also home to attractions and hiking trails located outside of the ticketed recreation area. Proceed carefully because the roadways are not always well maintained. It’s best to avoid driving in these areas during rainfall and at night.

El Yunque Caribbean National Forest

Trails

To fully appreciate El Yunque’s beauty and majesty, park the car and hike into the jungle. It doesn’t take more than a couple of dozen steps to become completely enveloped by the dense, lush foliage. Here the aural assault of the 21st century is replaced by a palpable hush and the sounds of water in motion—flowing, dripping, raining—punctuated by birdsong and frog chirps.

El Yunque National Forest has a variety of trails, ranging from easy to very strenuous, that lead to waterfalls, natural pools, and mountain peaks. The longest trail is 6 kilometers (4 mi) one way, but because of the terrain, it takes four hours to traverse it. Some of the trails have steps; most are paved or covered in gravel to keep them passable through the constant rain. Hiking boots with good tread are a necessity. Even paved trails can be slippery and muddy. The warm air and high humidity require frequent hydration, so bring plenty of water. And it rains a lot, naturally, so light rain gear is recommended. Avoid streams during heavy rains, as flash floods can occur. Bug spray and sunscreen are recommended.

The following trails are accessible from El Yunque’s ticketed recreation area, La Mina. All trail lengths and hiking times are approximate.

La Coca Trail

La Coca Trail (3 km/2 mi, 1.5 hours one-way, strenuous, gravel) starts across the street from La Coca Falls. The steep and muddy trail requires navigating over rocks and through streams to access a natural pool suitable for swimming.

El Yunque Trail

El Yunque Trail (4 km/2.5 mi, 2 hours one-way, strenuous, pavement and gravel) is one of the forest’s longest and most strenuous hikes. It starts from Caimitillo Trail (PR 191, km 11.3) and climbs to an altitude of 3,400 feet (1,036 m). Along the way it passes several rain shelters, traverses the cloud forest, and ends at Los Picachos Trail. The upper trail branches left to connect with Mount Britton Trail and right to Los Picachos Trail. The trail to the highest peak of El Yunque is closed.

Caimitillo Trail (0.8 km/0.5 mi, 25 minutes, easy, paved and steps) begins at Sierra Palm Picnic Area (PR 191, km 11.3) and crosses a stream. Along the way you’ll pass a picnic area and structures used by the Puerto Rican parrot recovery program.

Los Picachos Trail (0.4 km/0.25 mi, 25 minutes, strenuous, unpaved and steps) is a steep ascent from El Yunque Trail to Los Picachos, one of three peaks that comprise the summit of El Yunque, marked by a stone observation deck built by the CCC in the 1930s.

Mount Britton Trail

Image of narrow hiking trail leading into thick jungle.
A trail near Mount Britton Tower. ©Jose G Rodriguez Ramirez/Dreamstime.

Mount Britton Trail (1.5 km/1 mi, 45 minutes one-way, strenuous, paved) starts at PR 9938, a loop road at the end of PR 191. It is an uphill hike through tabonuco, sierra palm, and cloud forests. The trail crosses two streams and runs along a service road for a short distance—if you’re not sure which way to go, just keep heading straight up. It ends at the Mount Britton Tower, built in the 1930s by the CCC. Mount Britton Spur (1.5 km/1 mi, 30 minutes, moderate, paved) connects Mount Britton Trail to El Yunque Trail.

Trade Winds Trail

Trade Winds Trail (6 km/4 mi, 4 hours one-way, very strenuous, unpaved and unmaintained) is the forest’s longest trail, and it is unpaved, unmaintained, muddy, and overgrown in parts. To reach the trailhead, drive to the end of PR 191 where the road is closed. Park your vehicle without blocking the gate. Walk past the gate to the trailhead. The trail ascends El Toro, the highest peak in the forest, where it connects with El Toro Trail. Landslides are common in some areas, so be prepared to make your own trail. Long sleeves and pants are recommended for protection against brush, some of which can cause skin irritation on contact. There is very little—if any—cellphone service here. Bring lots of water.

Closed Trails

Two trails damaged by Hurricanes Irma and María in 2017 remain closed. La Mina Trail (0.8 km/0.5 mi, 25 minutes, moderate, paved and steps) starts at Palo Colorado Visitors Center and follows La Mina River, ending at La Mina waterfall, where it connects with Big Tree Trail. Big Tree Trail (1.5 km/1 mi, 35 minutes, moderate, paved and steps) is an interpretive trail with signs in Spanish and English. It passes through tabonuco forest, crosses streams, and ends at La Mina waterfall, where it connects to La Mina Trail. The trailhead is by a small parking area at PR 191, km 10.2.

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Picture of rainforest with text Hiking El Yunque National Forest
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Panoramic view of lush green rainforest and mountains.

El Yunque National Forest is the crown jewel of Puerto Rico’s natural treasures and a hiker's paradise. The only tropical rainforest in the United States, it encompasses 29,000 acres and contains some of the only virgin forest remaining on the island. This ecologically diverse wonderland is home to thousands of native plants, including 150 fern species and 240 tree species, and a variety of birds and reptiles.

Panoramic view of lush green rainforest and mountains.
El Yunque National Forest. ©Dennis Van De Water/Dreamstime.

Some parts of the forest receive up to 240 inches of rain a year, and the average temperature is 73°F (23°C). Spanning the park is the Sierra de Luquillo, a steep and densely forested mountain range. The highest peak is El Toro at 3,526 feet (1,075 m) above sea level; the second-highest peak is El Yunque at 3,461 feet (1,055 m).

Entry and Tickets

The best way to access El Yunque is to visit the well-maintained La Mina Recreation Area, managed by the U.S. Forest Service. La Mina is in the municipality of Río Grande. The national forest actually spans multiple other municipalities, including Canóvanas, Luquillo, Las Piedras, and Naguabo. Efforts are underway to develop access to El Yunque from these municipalities.

Entrance requires a ticket ($2 per vehicle) purchased in advance. Tickets are sold one day at a time, five weeks in advance. It’s a good idea to purchase tickets as early as possible. If your desired day is sold out, check back early the day before, when additional tickets are sometimes released. Tickets are sold for two time slots: 8am-11am and 11am-2pm. Visitors can enter anytime within their time slot and can stay until closing at 5pm.

On PR 191, the road that winds through El Yunque, there’s a checkpoint where a park employee will check your ticket.

If you can’t get a ticket on your own, check with your hotel concierge or book a tour with an independent tour operator; tours start around $50 per person.

Getting There

From San Juan, allow 45 minutes to drive 47 kilometers (29 mi) east to El Yunque via PR 6, then east on PR 66, and east on PR 3. From PR 3, turn south on PR 191, the main thoroughfare through the forest, which travels up into the mountains past the recreational facilities and trailheads for 13 kilometers (8 mi) until it ends about 2 kilometers (1 mi) from the peak.

El Yunque is also home to attractions and hiking trails located outside of the ticketed recreation area. Proceed carefully because the roadways are not always well maintained. It’s best to avoid driving in these areas during rainfall and at night.

El Yunque Caribbean National Forest

Trails

To fully appreciate El Yunque’s beauty and majesty, park the car and hike into the jungle. It doesn’t take more than a couple of dozen steps to become completely enveloped by the dense, lush foliage. Here the aural assault of the 21st century is replaced by a palpable hush and the sounds of water in motion—flowing, dripping, raining—punctuated by birdsong and frog chirps.

El Yunque National Forest has a variety of trails, ranging from easy to very strenuous, that lead to waterfalls, natural pools, and mountain peaks. The longest trail is 6 kilometers (4 mi) one way, but because of the terrain, it takes four hours to traverse it. Some of the trails have steps; most are paved or covered in gravel to keep them passable through the constant rain. Hiking boots with good tread are a necessity. Even paved trails can be slippery and muddy. The warm air and high humidity require frequent hydration, so bring plenty of water. And it rains a lot, naturally, so light rain gear is recommended. Avoid streams during heavy rains, as flash floods can occur. Bug spray and sunscreen are recommended.

The following trails are accessible from El Yunque’s ticketed recreation area, La Mina. All trail lengths and hiking times are approximate.

La Coca Trail

La Coca Trail (3 km/2 mi, 1.5 hours one-way, strenuous, gravel) starts across the street from La Coca Falls. The steep and muddy trail requires navigating over rocks and through streams to access a natural pool suitable for swimming.

El Yunque Trail

El Yunque Trail (4 km/2.5 mi, 2 hours one-way, strenuous, pavement and gravel) is one of the forest’s longest and most strenuous hikes. It starts from Caimitillo Trail (PR 191, km 11.3) and climbs to an altitude of 3,400 feet (1,036 m). Along the way it passes several rain shelters, traverses the cloud forest, and ends at Los Picachos Trail. The upper trail branches left to connect with Mount Britton Trail and right to Los Picachos Trail. The trail to the highest peak of El Yunque is closed.

Caimitillo Trail (0.8 km/0.5 mi, 25 minutes, easy, paved and steps) begins at Sierra Palm Picnic Area (PR 191, km 11.3) and crosses a stream. Along the way you’ll pass a picnic area and structures used by the Puerto Rican parrot recovery program.

Los Picachos Trail (0.4 km/0.25 mi, 25 minutes, strenuous, unpaved and steps) is a steep ascent from El Yunque Trail to Los Picachos, one of three peaks that comprise the summit of El Yunque, marked by a stone observation deck built by the CCC in the 1930s.

Mount Britton Trail

Image of narrow hiking trail leading into thick jungle.
A trail near Mount Britton Tower. ©Jose G Rodriguez Ramirez/Dreamstime.

Mount Britton Trail (1.5 km/1 mi, 45 minutes one-way, strenuous, paved) starts at PR 9938, a loop road at the end of PR 191. It is an uphill hike through tabonuco, sierra palm, and cloud forests. The trail crosses two streams and runs along a service road for a short distance—if you’re not sure which way to go, just keep heading straight up. It ends at the Mount Britton Tower, built in the 1930s by the CCC. Mount Britton Spur (1.5 km/1 mi, 30 minutes, moderate, paved) connects Mount Britton Trail to El Yunque Trail.

Trade Winds Trail

Trade Winds Trail (6 km/4 mi, 4 hours one-way, very strenuous, unpaved and unmaintained) is the forest’s longest trail, and it is unpaved, unmaintained, muddy, and overgrown in parts. To reach the trailhead, drive to the end of PR 191 where the road is closed. Park your vehicle without blocking the gate. Walk past the gate to the trailhead. The trail ascends El Toro, the highest peak in the forest, where it connects with El Toro Trail. Landslides are common in some areas, so be prepared to make your own trail. Long sleeves and pants are recommended for protection against brush, some of which can cause skin irritation on contact. There is very little—if any—cellphone service here. Bring lots of water.

Closed Trails

Two trails damaged by Hurricanes Irma and María in 2017 remain closed. La Mina Trail (0.8 km/0.5 mi, 25 minutes, moderate, paved and steps) starts at Palo Colorado Visitors Center and follows La Mina River, ending at La Mina waterfall, where it connects with Big Tree Trail. Big Tree Trail (1.5 km/1 mi, 35 minutes, moderate, paved and steps) is an interpretive trail with signs in Spanish and English. It passes through tabonuco forest, crosses streams, and ends at La Mina waterfall, where it connects to La Mina Trail. The trailhead is by a small parking area at PR 191, km 10.2.

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Picture of rainforest with text Hiking El Yunque National Forest
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Puerto Vallarta’s Best Beaches https://www.moon.com/travel/outdoors/puerto-vallartas-best-beaches/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 15:56:27 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=8347

Whether you're looking to lounge with the latest beach read, catch a wave, stroll the lively malecón, or snorkel a secluded cove, Mexico's Pacific coast has a stretch of sand for you. Here are the best beaches in Puerto Vallarta, Banderas Bay, Sayulita and the Riviera Nayarit, and Costalegre.

Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta beach, Mexico
Take a morning stroll along the beach in Puerto Vallarta. Photo © Elena Elisseeva/Dreamstime.

For the liveliest scene:

In Puerto Vallarta, the most popular beach is Playa los Muertos, just off the malecón in the heart of town, a bustling beach filled with people catching rays and lounging about, with dozens of restaurants, hotels, and beach clubs lining the sandy stretch and offering loungers, umbrellas, and food service. Vendors walk back and forth selling foot massages and sunglasses, and you can watch fishers in the waves catching krill, kids jumping off the pier, and pelicans forming a flotilla in the waves.

For a local experience:

North of Playa los Muertos, Playa Camarones is where locals and families put down blankets and make a beach day of it, a quieter but convivial community, and the beachfront restaurant El Barracuda makes some of the best cocktails in the city.

For serenity and snorkeling in the city:

Next door to Playa los Muertos on its south end, Playa Conchas Chinas offers a secluded setting, with small coves and rocky outcrops perfect for private sunbathing, and few vendors or amenities. If you have snorkel gear, bring it along as the coves harbor colorful fish.

For an illuminating paddling experience:

Off Playa Mismaloya, you can take an evening paddleboarding or kayaking tour to Los Arcos National Marine Park and witness the natural phenomenon of bioluminescence in the waters around the offshore islands.

Banderas Bay North

Banderas Bay at sunset
Gentle waves of Banderas Bay at sunset. Photo © Ferenz/Dreamstime.

For the best all-around time:

Playa Bucerías is a wide stretch of fine white sand running the length of town, great for walking, playing volleyball, or just relaxing and watching the town’s oyster divers, while the waters are conducive to swimming as well as activities from paddleboarding to kitesurfing. Many beachfront restaurants offer loungers with umbrellas and all-day service. Bonus: Beachfront massages are available.

For families:

Just past the town of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle is Playa la Manzanilla, a small, protected cove with calm, safe waters for children to frolic in, vendors renting beach toys, and restaurants selling fresh food.

For long strolls:

Banderas Bay’s breathtaking Playa Destiladeras offers kilometers of wide, flat, soft sand perfect for meandering walks alongside craggy cliffs, gentle waves, and exclusive villas and resorts with beachfront restaurants.

For beginner surfers or stand-up paddleboarders:

Directly in front of Punta de Mita, Playa el Anclote has light waves and breezes that make this an ideal place for new learners.

Sayulita and the Riviera Nayarit

There's nothing quite like a cocktail on the beach under the Sayulita sun. Photo © Janel Barnes/Dreamstime.

For surfers of all skill levels and people-watching:

The most popular beach in Sayulita is its main beach off the town center, Playa Sayulita, filled with beautiful people, interesting characters, musicians, and surfers waiting for their next perfect wave.

For sunsets:

Lined with palapa-covered restaurants serving fresh catches of the day, Playa Rincón de Guayabitos has great perches from which to catch sunsets, particularly spectacular alongside the beach’s offshore islands.

For fresh oysters:

In the Matanchén Bayarea is Playa Platanitos, a small cove with a large oyster bed just off the beach; during the season you can enjoy fresh oysters served with lime and chile sauce at the beachfront restaurants, along with cold beer, for a perfect day.

Costalegre

Ponte Perula, Mexico.
Ponte Perula, Mexico. Photo from Dreamstime.com.

For participating in a turtle release:

At 19 kilometers (11.8 mi) long, Playa Mayto is the largest area dedicated to turtle rescue—care of the Campamento Tortuguero Mayto—on the Pacific coast. Baby turtles are released July-January, and you can participate if you’re in the area.

For offshore island explorations:

The most popular beach on beautiful Chamela Bay is Playa Punta Pérula, a prime jumping-off point to small, uninhabited offshore islands home to numerous birds and marinelife, perfect for snorkeling and sunbathing. You can rent a boat right off the beach to take you to the islands.

For hanging with (new) friends:

Americans, Canadians, and Europeans all converge on Playa la Manzanilla in the winter months—a beach with fine sand, protected waters, and waterfront restaurants offering places to break bread and enjoy drinks with fellow snowbirds.

For accessibility:

Jalisco’s first fully accessible beach, and one of only nine in the world, Playa Cuastecomates has calm, temperate waters, a boardwalk to allow easy passage for people in wheelchairs, directional signs featuring Braille for the sight-impaired, and first-aid stations along the shoreline to assist in medical and emergency care.


Related Travel Guide

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puerto vallarta beaches pinterest graphic
]]>

Whether you're looking to lounge with the latest beach read, catch a wave, stroll the lively malecón, or snorkel a secluded cove, Mexico's Pacific coast has a stretch of sand for you. Here are the best beaches in Puerto Vallarta, Banderas Bay, Sayulita and the Riviera Nayarit, and Costalegre.

Puerto Vallarta

Puerto Vallarta beach, Mexico
Take a morning stroll along the beach in Puerto Vallarta. Photo © Elena Elisseeva/Dreamstime.

For the liveliest scene:

In Puerto Vallarta, the most popular beach is Playa los Muertos, just off the malecón in the heart of town, a bustling beach filled with people catching rays and lounging about, with dozens of restaurants, hotels, and beach clubs lining the sandy stretch and offering loungers, umbrellas, and food service. Vendors walk back and forth selling foot massages and sunglasses, and you can watch fishers in the waves catching krill, kids jumping off the pier, and pelicans forming a flotilla in the waves.

For a local experience:

North of Playa los Muertos, Playa Camarones is where locals and families put down blankets and make a beach day of it, a quieter but convivial community, and the beachfront restaurant El Barracuda makes some of the best cocktails in the city.

For serenity and snorkeling in the city:

Next door to Playa los Muertos on its south end, Playa Conchas Chinas offers a secluded setting, with small coves and rocky outcrops perfect for private sunbathing, and few vendors or amenities. If you have snorkel gear, bring it along as the coves harbor colorful fish.

For an illuminating paddling experience:

Off Playa Mismaloya, you can take an evening paddleboarding or kayaking tour to Los Arcos National Marine Park and witness the natural phenomenon of bioluminescence in the waters around the offshore islands.

Banderas Bay North

Banderas Bay at sunset
Gentle waves of Banderas Bay at sunset. Photo © Ferenz/Dreamstime.

For the best all-around time:

Playa Bucerías is a wide stretch of fine white sand running the length of town, great for walking, playing volleyball, or just relaxing and watching the town’s oyster divers, while the waters are conducive to swimming as well as activities from paddleboarding to kitesurfing. Many beachfront restaurants offer loungers with umbrellas and all-day service. Bonus: Beachfront massages are available.

For families:

Just past the town of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle is Playa la Manzanilla, a small, protected cove with calm, safe waters for children to frolic in, vendors renting beach toys, and restaurants selling fresh food.

For long strolls:

Banderas Bay’s breathtaking Playa Destiladeras offers kilometers of wide, flat, soft sand perfect for meandering walks alongside craggy cliffs, gentle waves, and exclusive villas and resorts with beachfront restaurants.

For beginner surfers or stand-up paddleboarders:

Directly in front of Punta de Mita, Playa el Anclote has light waves and breezes that make this an ideal place for new learners.

Sayulita and the Riviera Nayarit

There's nothing quite like a cocktail on the beach under the Sayulita sun. Photo © Janel Barnes/Dreamstime.

For surfers of all skill levels and people-watching:

The most popular beach in Sayulita is its main beach off the town center, Playa Sayulita, filled with beautiful people, interesting characters, musicians, and surfers waiting for their next perfect wave.

For sunsets:

Lined with palapa-covered restaurants serving fresh catches of the day, Playa Rincón de Guayabitos has great perches from which to catch sunsets, particularly spectacular alongside the beach’s offshore islands.

For fresh oysters:

In the Matanchén Bayarea is Playa Platanitos, a small cove with a large oyster bed just off the beach; during the season you can enjoy fresh oysters served with lime and chile sauce at the beachfront restaurants, along with cold beer, for a perfect day.

Costalegre

Ponte Perula, Mexico.
Ponte Perula, Mexico. Photo from Dreamstime.com.

For participating in a turtle release:

At 19 kilometers (11.8 mi) long, Playa Mayto is the largest area dedicated to turtle rescue—care of the Campamento Tortuguero Mayto—on the Pacific coast. Baby turtles are released July-January, and you can participate if you’re in the area.

For offshore island explorations:

The most popular beach on beautiful Chamela Bay is Playa Punta Pérula, a prime jumping-off point to small, uninhabited offshore islands home to numerous birds and marinelife, perfect for snorkeling and sunbathing. You can rent a boat right off the beach to take you to the islands.

For hanging with (new) friends:

Americans, Canadians, and Europeans all converge on Playa la Manzanilla in the winter months—a beach with fine sand, protected waters, and waterfront restaurants offering places to break bread and enjoy drinks with fellow snowbirds.

For accessibility:

Jalisco’s first fully accessible beach, and one of only nine in the world, Playa Cuastecomates has calm, temperate waters, a boardwalk to allow easy passage for people in wheelchairs, directional signs featuring Braille for the sight-impaired, and first-aid stations along the shoreline to assist in medical and emergency care.


Related Travel Guide

Pin it for Later

puerto vallarta beaches pinterest graphic
]]>
I Help at Home! Printable Guide for Grown-Ups https://www.moon.com/articles/i-help-at-home-printable-guide-for-grown-ups/ Tue, 30 Jan 2024 06:10:23 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1504174

Follow these tips to help children be successful with the activities in I Help at Home! 

The activities in the book I Help at Home! are adapted from traditional Montessori lessons that I have used in my classroom for more than 10 years. Each activity gives the child an opportunity to learn and/or practice new skills. Children will be able to use many of these skills, such as concentration and hand-eye coordination, in their day-to-day life. In addition, several of the skills will be part of the child’s foundation for future learning and activities, both inside the classroom and in the outside world. 

You will be more likely to recognize the child’s success and growth if you focus on the individual steps of each activity rather than rush the child to the end. For example, the benefits of the child scrubbing a table are not limited to a clean table! Gripping a scrub brush exercises fine motor skills and the motion of moving the brush across a table exercises gross motor skills. In addition, by following the steps in order, the child learns the importance of sequential operations and develops their concentration. 

As the child learns, they will find it more helpful if you show and explain the correct way of doing something rather than point out that they have done a step or activity “wrong.” As long as the child is out of harm’s way, allow mistakes to happen. For example, if a young dishwasher forgets to wet the sponge before using soap, they will see that bubbles were not formed. They might be able to figure that out and correct the problem independently if you give them enough space to do so. 

Photo of a child with sponge and dish soap.

This not only gives the child an opportunity to practice problem-solving skills but also helps build the child’s confidence. If the child doesn’t realize on their own that the sponge should be wet before adding soap, allow them to continue with the activity. The next time they wash dishes, emphasize before they begin that in order to form bubbles, the sponge needs to be wet before adding soap. 

Photo of a child washing dishes.

Making mistakes is part of growing and learning, and when the child is used to solving problems independently, they will be more prepared to navigate future challenges in school and beyond. By allowing mistakes to guide the child, you will help the child develop these important life skills. 

In the pages of this guide, I have suggested ways that you can help ensure the child’s short-term success with each activity. The Indirect Benefits sections explain how each part of an activity helps set up the child for success with other lessons and skills down the road. Enjoy, and follow me on

Excerpted and adapted from the I Help at Home! supplementary printable Guide for Grown-ups © Saniyyah Khalilallah.


]]>

Follow these tips to help children be successful with the activities in I Help at Home! 

The activities in the book I Help at Home! are adapted from traditional Montessori lessons that I have used in my classroom for more than 10 years. Each activity gives the child an opportunity to learn and/or practice new skills. Children will be able to use many of these skills, such as concentration and hand-eye coordination, in their day-to-day life. In addition, several of the skills will be part of the child’s foundation for future learning and activities, both inside the classroom and in the outside world. 

You will be more likely to recognize the child’s success and growth if you focus on the individual steps of each activity rather than rush the child to the end. For example, the benefits of the child scrubbing a table are not limited to a clean table! Gripping a scrub brush exercises fine motor skills and the motion of moving the brush across a table exercises gross motor skills. In addition, by following the steps in order, the child learns the importance of sequential operations and develops their concentration. 

As the child learns, they will find it more helpful if you show and explain the correct way of doing something rather than point out that they have done a step or activity “wrong.” As long as the child is out of harm’s way, allow mistakes to happen. For example, if a young dishwasher forgets to wet the sponge before using soap, they will see that bubbles were not formed. They might be able to figure that out and correct the problem independently if you give them enough space to do so. 

Photo of a child with sponge and dish soap.

This not only gives the child an opportunity to practice problem-solving skills but also helps build the child’s confidence. If the child doesn’t realize on their own that the sponge should be wet before adding soap, allow them to continue with the activity. The next time they wash dishes, emphasize before they begin that in order to form bubbles, the sponge needs to be wet before adding soap. 

Photo of a child washing dishes.

Making mistakes is part of growing and learning, and when the child is used to solving problems independently, they will be more prepared to navigate future challenges in school and beyond. By allowing mistakes to guide the child, you will help the child develop these important life skills. 

In the pages of this guide, I have suggested ways that you can help ensure the child’s short-term success with each activity. The Indirect Benefits sections explain how each part of an activity helps set up the child for success with other lessons and skills down the road. Enjoy, and follow me on

Excerpted and adapted from the I Help at Home! supplementary printable Guide for Grown-ups © Saniyyah Khalilallah.


]]>
How to Be a Person printable poster with cut-and-paste merit badges! https://www.moon.com/articles/how-to-be-a-person-printable-poster-with-cut-and-paste-merit-badges/ Mon, 29 Jan 2024 20:49:05 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1503753

Packed with tips and tricks, How to Be a Person, helps kids learn how to manage whatever life throws their way.

Calculate a tip! Have a conversation! Do a load of laundry! Write a thank-you note! Plunge a toilet! Apologize! Incentivize your kids to skill-up by earning these nifty merit badges—and more!

Other Beings Merit Badge
Saying it Right merit badge
Wearing That? merit badge
Edible Food merit badge
Two Cents Merit Badge
Dirty Things merit badge

It's easy to get started. Kids begin by asking themselves, “How can I help?” Then, try five skills from the sampler of pages from How to Be a Person in the video below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkCc4EjuSkw&t=15s

Next, as they master each skill, pop a cut-and-paste merit badge on this fun How to Be a Person printable poster!

For even more skills to choose from, grab a copy of How to Be a Person and try something from each of these sections of the book: Other Beings, Say it Right, Dirty Things, Wearing That?, Edible Food, Two Cents, and Useful Skills.

Jam-packed with tips, tricks, and advice — all illustrated in an irresistible graphic novel–style — How to Be a Person shows kids just how easy it is to free themselves from parental nagging and become more dependable — and they’ll like themselves better, too!

Excerpted and adapted from How to Be a Person © Catherine Newman. Illustration © Debbie Fong.


]]>

Packed with tips and tricks, How to Be a Person, helps kids learn how to manage whatever life throws their way.

Calculate a tip! Have a conversation! Do a load of laundry! Write a thank-you note! Plunge a toilet! Apologize! Incentivize your kids to skill-up by earning these nifty merit badges—and more!

Other Beings Merit Badge
Saying it Right merit badge
Wearing That? merit badge
Edible Food merit badge
Two Cents Merit Badge
Dirty Things merit badge

It's easy to get started. Kids begin by asking themselves, “How can I help?” Then, try five skills from the sampler of pages from How to Be a Person in the video below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkCc4EjuSkw&t=15s

Next, as they master each skill, pop a cut-and-paste merit badge on this fun How to Be a Person printable poster!

For even more skills to choose from, grab a copy of How to Be a Person and try something from each of these sections of the book: Other Beings, Say it Right, Dirty Things, Wearing That?, Edible Food, Two Cents, and Useful Skills.

Jam-packed with tips, tricks, and advice — all illustrated in an irresistible graphic novel–style — How to Be a Person shows kids just how easy it is to free themselves from parental nagging and become more dependable — and they’ll like themselves better, too!

Excerpted and adapted from How to Be a Person © Catherine Newman. Illustration © Debbie Fong.


]]>
Puerto Rico’s Iconic City Wall: La Muralla https://www.moon.com/travel/trip-ideas/puerto-ricos-iconic-la-muralla/ Mon, 29 Jan 2024 17:01:11 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=33580 Stone wall and trees along rocky coastline

The most enduring symbol of Puerto Rico is La Muralla. Nearly 400 years old, the city wall is composed of rock, rubble, and mortar and wraps around Viejo San Juan from the cruise ship piers on San Juan Harbor to the capitol on the Atlantic Ocean. It is a symbol of the island’s resilience in an ever-changing world. Over its long life, the wall has withstood multiple military attacks. But modern life, in the form of automobile traffic, pollution, and misguided attempts at preservation, has endangered the wall.

Towering stone wall and trees along beachy coastline.
La Muralla, a nearly 400-year-old wall that surrounds Old San Juan. Photo © VilaImages/Dreamstime.

When the U .S . Army seized Puerto Rico in 1898, it took over maintenance of the wall and attempted its first preservation efforts. Concrete was used to patch La Muralla, but that only served to add weight to the wall and trap moisture inside it, which weakened the structure over time.

Today, La Muralla is crumbling in places. In 2004 a 70-foot section below the heavily traveled Calle Norzagaray fell, underscoring the urgency of stepping up preservation efforts. It wasn’t the first time the wall’s fragility was made apparent. A larger section fell into San Juan Bay in 1938, and in 1999 a Russian oil tanker ran aground, damaging the wall’s northwest corner.

Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, La Muralla is maintained by the U .S . National Park Service, which has been overseeing efforts to repair the wall. In 2022, visitors noticed the wall near El Morro looking considerably paler in color: The NPS had removed centuries of dirt, soot, and vegetation in its continuing effort to maintain the wall’s integrity.

The wall attracts 1 .2 million visitors a year and, chances are, with the help of preservation efforts, it will continue to assert its soaring beauty and cultural significance as the proud protector of Viejo San Juan for years to come.

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Stone wall and trees along rocky coastline

The most enduring symbol of Puerto Rico is La Muralla. Nearly 400 years old, the city wall is composed of rock, rubble, and mortar and wraps around Viejo San Juan from the cruise ship piers on San Juan Harbor to the capitol on the Atlantic Ocean. It is a symbol of the island’s resilience in an ever-changing world. Over its long life, the wall has withstood multiple military attacks. But modern life, in the form of automobile traffic, pollution, and misguided attempts at preservation, has endangered the wall.

Towering stone wall and trees along beachy coastline.
La Muralla, a nearly 400-year-old wall that surrounds Old San Juan. Photo © VilaImages/Dreamstime.

When the U .S . Army seized Puerto Rico in 1898, it took over maintenance of the wall and attempted its first preservation efforts. Concrete was used to patch La Muralla, but that only served to add weight to the wall and trap moisture inside it, which weakened the structure over time.

Today, La Muralla is crumbling in places. In 2004 a 70-foot section below the heavily traveled Calle Norzagaray fell, underscoring the urgency of stepping up preservation efforts. It wasn’t the first time the wall’s fragility was made apparent. A larger section fell into San Juan Bay in 1938, and in 1999 a Russian oil tanker ran aground, damaging the wall’s northwest corner.

Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, La Muralla is maintained by the U .S . National Park Service, which has been overseeing efforts to repair the wall. In 2022, visitors noticed the wall near El Morro looking considerably paler in color: The NPS had removed centuries of dirt, soot, and vegetation in its continuing effort to maintain the wall’s integrity.

The wall attracts 1 .2 million visitors a year and, chances are, with the help of preservation efforts, it will continue to assert its soaring beauty and cultural significance as the proud protector of Viejo San Juan for years to come.

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Image of stone wall along beach with text La Muralla, Puerto Rico
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Old San Juan’s Two Historic Castillos https://www.moon.com/travel/arts-culture/old-san-juans-two-historic-castillos/ Mon, 29 Jan 2024 16:47:20 +0000 http://moon.com/?p=33564

Anyone interested in history but especially those interested in military history should take the time to explore Old San Juan's two historic forts. Spanning decades of construction, both Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo de San Cristóbal are open for the public to freely wander.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

It doesn’t matter from which direction you approach Castillo San Felipe del Morro (501 Calle Norzagaray, Old San Juan, 787/729-6777, daily 9am-6pm, free, orientation talks every hour on the hour in English and Spanish), it’s an impressive sight to behold. From San Juan Bay, which was constructed to protect from attack, it’s an awesome feat of engineering and a daunting display of military defense featuring four levels of cannon-bearing batteries that rise 140 feet from the sea. From Old San Juan, the approach is more welcoming, thanks to an enormous expanse of grassy lawn and breathtaking views of the shore. It’s easy to see why this is such a popular spot for kite-flyers.

Inside Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a maze of rooms, including gun rooms, soldiers’ quarters, a chapel, turreted sentry posts, and a prison connected by tunnels, ramps, and a spiral stairway. The foundations for El Morro were laid in 1539, but it wasn’t completed until 1787. It successfully endured many foreign attacks by the English in 1595, 1598, and 1797, and by the Dutch in 1625. During the Spanish-American War, the United States fired on El Morro and destroyed the lighthouse, which was later rebuilt.

On Saturdays and Sundays, guided tours are offered in Spanish and English.

Castillo de San Cristóbal

Castillo de San Cristóbal (Calle Norzagaray at the entrance to Old San Juan, 787/729-6777, daily 9am-6pm, $5) is the large fortress at the entrance to Old San Juan by Plaza de Colón. Before it was built, two significant attacks from land—first by the Earl of Cumberland in 1598, later by the Dutch in 1625—convinced the Spanish that protecting the walled city from attack by sea alone was not adequate.

The fort’s construction began in 1634 and was completed in 1783. The fort eventually encompassed 27 acres of land, although some of it was destroyed to accommodate the expanding city. The fort’s defense was tested in 1797 by another unsuccessful attack by the British. After the United States won the Spanish-American War, it took control of the fort and used it as a World War II observation post. Today, a section of the fort is open to the public, who can wander freely among its intriguing array of tunnels, ramps, stairways, batteries, magazines, soldiers’ quarters, and turreted sentry posts.

Old San Juan

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Anyone interested in history but especially those interested in military history should take the time to explore Old San Juan's two historic forts. Spanning decades of construction, both Castillo San Felipe del Morro and Castillo de San Cristóbal are open for the public to freely wander.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro. Photo © Suzanne Van Atten.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

It doesn’t matter from which direction you approach Castillo San Felipe del Morro (501 Calle Norzagaray, Old San Juan, 787/729-6777, daily 9am-6pm, free, orientation talks every hour on the hour in English and Spanish), it’s an impressive sight to behold. From San Juan Bay, which was constructed to protect from attack, it’s an awesome feat of engineering and a daunting display of military defense featuring four levels of cannon-bearing batteries that rise 140 feet from the sea. From Old San Juan, the approach is more welcoming, thanks to an enormous expanse of grassy lawn and breathtaking views of the shore. It’s easy to see why this is such a popular spot for kite-flyers.

Inside Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a maze of rooms, including gun rooms, soldiers’ quarters, a chapel, turreted sentry posts, and a prison connected by tunnels, ramps, and a spiral stairway. The foundations for El Morro were laid in 1539, but it wasn’t completed until 1787. It successfully endured many foreign attacks by the English in 1595, 1598, and 1797, and by the Dutch in 1625. During the Spanish-American War, the United States fired on El Morro and destroyed the lighthouse, which was later rebuilt.

On Saturdays and Sundays, guided tours are offered in Spanish and English.

Castillo de San Cristóbal

Castillo de San Cristóbal (Calle Norzagaray at the entrance to Old San Juan, 787/729-6777, daily 9am-6pm, $5) is the large fortress at the entrance to Old San Juan by Plaza de Colón. Before it was built, two significant attacks from land—first by the Earl of Cumberland in 1598, later by the Dutch in 1625—convinced the Spanish that protecting the walled city from attack by sea alone was not adequate.

The fort’s construction began in 1634 and was completed in 1783. The fort eventually encompassed 27 acres of land, although some of it was destroyed to accommodate the expanding city. The fort’s defense was tested in 1797 by another unsuccessful attack by the British. After the United States won the Spanish-American War, it took control of the fort and used it as a World War II observation post. Today, a section of the fort is open to the public, who can wander freely among its intriguing array of tunnels, ramps, stairways, batteries, magazines, soldiers’ quarters, and turreted sentry posts.

Old San Juan

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Nothing Worthwhile Is Ever Easy: Download Chapter 10 of TOPGUN’S Top 10 https://www.moon.com/articles/nothing-worthwhile-is-ever-easy-download-chapter-10-of-topguns-top-10/ Mon, 29 Jan 2024 14:10:28 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1503889

TOPGUN instructors aren’t superhuman. Once upon a time, we were all typical, confused high school students. Few of us had graduated as class valedictorian. Many of us had even found ourselves in trouble at various times during our youth. But here we all were, aviators united by a common desire to be the best we could be. With direction, teamwork, and a universal adherence to unflinching standards, we made it.

It’s easy to get bogged down and feel overwhelmed when faced with adversity or a seemingly insurmountable task. Who hasn’t rested their head in their hands while studying for a big exam or thrown their arms into the air with frustration after a particularly tough episode at work? Upon reflection, though, we realize these are simply fleeting moments in time. Continue to rely on your hard work, dedication, and pursuit of excellence to carry you through. Recognize that there are no shortcuts. Tackle your tough problems head‑on and continue to strive for success that sometimes seems just a little out of reach.

You have to earn your success . . . each and every day. Make today better than yesterday. Do the same tomorrow. Just remember, nothing worthwhile is ever easy.

Download Chapter 10 Below to Read the Entire Excerpt!

Guy M Snodgrass

About the Author

Guy Snodgrass recently served as director of communications and chief speechwriter to Secretary of Defense James Mattis. A former naval aviator and F/A-18 pilot, he served as a commanding officer of a fighter squadron based in Japan, a TOPGUN instructor, and a combat pilot over the skies of Iraq as part of his twenty-year navy career. Today he is the founder and CEO of Defense Analytics, a strategic consulting and advisory firm. He lives in Washington, D.C.

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“2024 America: The Upside Down” an Excerpt from The End of the Alphabet https://www.moon.com/articles/2024-america-the-upside-down-from-the-end-of-the-alphabet-by-isabel-brown/ Mon, 29 Jan 2024 11:00:43 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1501461

Today, it’s inarguable that we live in the most advanced society in the world. The rise of political progressivism, technological innovation, commonality of higher education, and “enlightened” relationships makes it easy for us (at first blush) to believe that we are living in the best time in human history. After all, no generation before us could have ever dreamed of “having it all” the way we do, so it stands to reason that we should be the happiest and most joyful generation of all time. Right? In case the picture I painted for you isn’t clear enough throughout this chapter, the perfect, progressive, allegedly utopian society the last few generations have carefully built step-by-step has not translated to happiness, fulfillment, or even hope. Gen Z instead is facing the single greatest mental health crisis any generation has ever encountered in human history. The world my generation has grown up and is coming into adulthood in has proved to be so at odds with human flourishing that we are setting records for mass anxiety, depression, substance abuse, and even suicide. The American Psychological Association reported in 2022 that 90% of my generation experienced physical or psychological symptoms as a result of stress within the prior year, and 70% of us report anxiety and depression to be major problems among our peers. Furthermore, according to their findings, Gen Z adults are “more likely than some other generations to report they have been diagnosed with an anxiety disorder (18%) and more likely than all other generations to report they have been diagnosed with depression (23%).”

The National Institute on Drug Abuse is raising concerns about our higher likelihood to develop addiction, reporting that nearly 25% of twelfth graders used illicit drugs in 2015 (the year I graduated from high school). The National Institute on Alcohol Abuse and Alcoholism recently found more than 4.2 million people between the ages of 12 and 20 confessed to binge-drinking. TWELVE. YEARS. OLD. Most recently (and most devastatingly), the CDC shared new data in early 2023 finding teen girls are facing record levels of hopelessness and persistent sadness—so much so that one in three teenage girls in America seriously considered suicide in 2021. One in three. In that same year, 13% of teenage girls actually attempted to take their own life. Those who didn’t act. on their feelings aren’t doing much better, either—three in five teenage girls felt persistently sad and hopeless, a figure that increased 60% from a decade earlier.16 Influencers, politicians, and celebrities continue echoing the shallow narrative that we “aren’t alone,” but no one in any substantial position of power seems to want to acknowledge just how much we’re struggling, let alone begin creating meaningful solutions.

That perfect future world our grandparents and parents so carefully built, where we’d inevitably have flying cars and world peace, really looks a lot more dystopian than anyone ever expected it would. With the exception of George Orwell, I suppose, who I am still convinced is a time traveler, it often feels like no one could have seen this chapter of history coming—2024 America feels eerily similar to an Orwellian 1984, hallmarked by censorship, authoritarianism, and indoctrination. The same inversion of reality where truth is propaganda, love is war, and groupthink is freedom has come for modern America—and we barely even noticed it quietly taking hold of our society over the last several decades. As those with quiet positions of power have played the long game over the past several decades, slowly changing the fabric of American culture as we know it through every pillar of our society, we’ve suddenly “woken up” in the 2020s flabbergasted as to how we got here and looking for someone to blame. It’s so much easier to point the finger at Gen Z for the source of today’s problems. After all, it’s painful to look in the mirror and admit complacency—that your wildest dreams for how bad society could become would eventually come true because you, and America at large, simply weren’t paying attention. Sadly, though, as we’ve slowly watched our schools, entertainment, media, politics, churches, and corporations transform into vehicles for the Left’s authoritarian agenda, it’s been Gen Z who has had to pay the price…and it’s Gen Z who will be left to clean up the mess after everyone else is gone.

When I give speeches about the unique cultural identity of my generation to political fundraisers, conferences, and large events across America, I always like to start with the foundational concepts of this very chapter. I often hear baby boomers and Gen Xers say, “Well, when I was that age, I dealt with stress. I figured it out. I got through it. Once these kids grow up and enter the ‘real world,’ they’ll get it.” In a chapter of history where the “real world” did mean hoisting yourself up by your bootstraps and “figuring it out,” come hell or high water, I’m sure that sentiment was helpful for young people seeking meaning and a purpose-driven path forward. Today, though, everything you’ve read in this chapter is the “real world” for Gen Z. In 2024 America, our day-to-day life could not be more fundamentally juxtaposed to anything our parents experienced at our same age. The easiest way to explain it is to borrow a phrase from one of my favorite TV shows of all time, Stranger Things: we are quite literally living in the upside down, in an inverted reality from what should be recognizable and familiar. Right is wrong and wrong is right. Men are women and women are men. Those who disagree with us aren’t just different—they’re evil. We’re rewriting history to fit today’s political agendas, giving no thought to how that will impact the future. Sexual liberation pushing us to sleep with whoever we want has resulted in people not seeking out relationships at all. It’s become considered morally superior to expose children to adult sexual conversations in elementary school than to shield them and protect their innocence.

In fact, you’re a “better person” today if you tell a struggling 12-year-old to undergo genital mutilation surgery and hormone “therapy” rather than to seek mental health treatment if she suddenly comes home with no history of gender dysphoria and says she no longer wants to be a girl (which, let’s face it, if one in three of them are genuinely considering suicide, who would want to be one?). Rather than building the future Martin Luther King Jr. so eloquently dreamed of, where we’d be judged by the content of our character instead of the color of our skin, we’re segregating our dorm rooms and implementing the debunked 1619 Project curriculum claiming the basis of America’s foundation was slavery. For goodness’ sake, our new food pyramid literally tells us that Lucky Charms marshmallows are healthier than steak. In 2024 America, nothing is authentic. We truly live in an artificial reality, where my generation has no way to parse through the noise and chaos to even determine truth to begin with. We’ve spent the past several years hiding—hiding our smiles behind masks, hiding our eyes behind VR headsets, and hiding our lives behind screens and social media profiles. In 2024 America, it’s time to break free of the spiral into insanity we’ve been wrapped up in throughout our entire generational lifetime. Gen Z is nostalgic for a time we don’t even remember and weren’t ever (or at the very least, barely) around for. Our fashion trends, music choices, and favorite television shows scream decades past as we attempt to resurrect any semblance of a chapter in American history where people could exist without all hell breaking loose. We recycle clothing trends from every decade, from bell-bottom jeans to Crocs and everything in between, sometimes all at the same time. We blare music from our parents’ young adult years (conveniently also the soundtrack hits to modern-day Guardians of the Galaxy), savoring the simplicity of a real guitar and clean vocals. We binge Friends and The Office over and over again, wishing we could have friends we actually spent time with out from behind a screen or laugh with our coworkers in the break room rather than be forced to work through Zoom.

Through every passing moment, Gen Z is desperately longing for a return to reality. It may not look like the early twenties of our grandparents and parents, but we’re taking back the cultural driver’s seat to build our own American dream. It goes without saying from what you’ve read in these past few pages that we are different, given our upbringing—so, as we grow into adulthood in the upside down, who are we really?

Isabel Brown

About the Author

Isabel Brown is a full-time live-streamer and independent content creator, giving a voice to Generation Z breaking down culture’s most important topics to thousands of viewers in a real-time, authentic format. Isabel’s streams and other content reach millions of people around the world daily. She published her first book, Frontlines: Finding My Voice on an American College Campus, in February 2021, and regularly speaks on high school and college campuses and to activism organizations worldwide. You may recognize her from the cover of Newsweek magazine or her regular appearances on national and international television and radio! Isabel lives in Miami and loves adventure with her fiancé and Corgi, Liberty.

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Puerto Rico, the “Island of Enchantment” https://www.moon.com/travel/trip-ideas/puerto-rico-the-isle-of-enchantment/ Fri, 26 Jan 2024 23:06:46 +0000 http://moon.type5.co/?p=771 Island of Enchantment—in Spanish, Isla del Encanto. It’s Puerto Rico’s nickname for good reason. Sandy beaches, palm trees, and tropical breezes make it a favorite getaway for the sun-and-surf crowd. Rugged mountains and verdant rainforest attract adventure travelers. Lavish hotels with oceanside golf courses embrace vacationers who crave luxury.

A stone fort along blue ocean.
El Morro fort in old San Juan, Puerto Rico. ©Brett Critchley, Dreamstime.

But Puerto Rico is more than a picture postcard. Centuries of Indigenous, African, and Spanish influences have coalesced to create Puerto Rico’s vibrant cultural life.

The hip, bustling metropolis of San Juan boasts world-class restaurants and hotels. Casinos and clubs playing reggaetón, house music, and live salsa keep the party going until dawn. Yet, a simple stroll through the cobblestone streets of Viejo San Juan steeps visitors in a concentrated dose of the island’s history.

Natural beauty abounds in the rivers, waterfalls, lagoons, and caves that populate the island. Venture out from San Juan and discover El Yunque National Forest with its semitropical rainforest; the northwestern karst country with its limestone caves; and three bioluminescent bays, where kayakers paddle in water that glows glittery shades of green, blue, or white at night.

Puerto Rico’s central mountain region is one of the most dramatically beautiful areas of the island, where high mountain peaks, canyons, lush vegetation, orchids, streams, and cooler temperatures prevail. The Indigenous Taíno culture once maintained a stronghold here, and their ancient ruins and petroglyphs can be found throughout the area.

View through circular cave entrance of lush green valley.
View through the Window Cave in Arecibo, Puerto Rico. ©Demerzel21, Dreamstime.

All this is to say that there is a lot more to Puerto Rico than beaches. But if it is spectacular beaches you want, there are plenty to be found, as well as a bounty of water sports, from surfing and diving to fishing and sailing.

Life is vivid in Puerto Rico. The sun shines brightly, the buildings and the sunsets pop with color, and tropical music fills the air. Prepare to be enchanted.

Suzanne Van Atten

About the Author

Suzanne Van Atten has written about destinations throughout the United States, Mexico, South America, the Caribbean, and Europe. She has barhopped in Barcelona, slept in a Jesuit monastery on the Amalfi coast, crewed a hot air balloon in New Mexico, gone white-water rafting in Tennessee, and gotten lost too many times to count.

Amidst all these travels, she always returns to Puerto Rico, a place she fell in love with when she lived there as a teenager. The country’s rich culture, postcard-perfect beaches, lush tropical jungle, cobblestone streets, pastel colors, lively music, and the joie de vivre of its people colluded to seduce her. No matter how many times she returns, she always discovers something new and delightful.

Suzanne is a creative writing instructor, an editor for the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, and a Pushcart Prize-nominated essayist who’s been published in the Gettysburg Review, The Chattahoochee Review, and Full Grown People.

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Read the Epilogue: Oath and Honor by Liz Cheney https://www.moon.com/articles/read-the-epilogue-oath-and-honor-by-liz-cheney/ Thu, 25 Jan 2024 16:44:59 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1502902

Epilogue

Thomas Jefferson was the first president to take the oath of office in Washington, DC. On March 4, 1801, he was sworn in at the US Capitol Building — which at the time consisted of a single small structure that would eventually become the north wing of the building we know today. Among the visitors in attendance was Margaret Bayard Smith, wife of the owner of one of Washington’s major newspapers. She wrote this to her sister‑in‑law:

I have this morning witnessed one of the most interesting scenes a free people can ever witness. The changes of administration, which in every government and in every age have most generally been epochs of confusion, villainy, and bloodshed, in this our happy country take place without any species of distraction or disorder.

Four years earlier, President George Washington had handed power to President John Adams, but this was the first time power had passed from one party to another. And those watching understood what a momentous — indeed, miraculous — thing it was for that to happen absent “confusion, villainy, and bloodshed.” Until January 2021, every American president had fulfilled his solemn obligation to safeguard the peaceful transfer of power. Every four or eight years, down through our history, candidates of both parties have put aside personal ambition and political battles for the good of the nation — even after the closest of presidential races.

As I was writing this book, I found — pasted onto the pages of one of my Grandmother Cheney’s scrapbooks — President Ford’s concession statement from November 1976. Ford lost the presidential election that year to Jimmy Carter. The final tally in the Electoral College was 297 to 240.

During the closing days of that campaign, President Ford had lost his voice. The morning after the election, when he placed the call to Jimmy Carter to concede the race, Ford handed the phone to his 35‑year‑old chief of staff, Dick Cheney, to read the concession statement to President‑elect Carter. In the statement my father read, President Ford congratulated Carter on his victory, then looked to the future:

As one who has been honored to serve the people of this great land — both in Congress and as President — I believe that we must now put the divisions of the campaign behind us and unite the country once again in a common pursuit of peace and prosperity.

Despite the policy differences between the two men, President Ford assured Carter that he would have Ford’s “complete and wholehearted support” as he took the oath of office. Ford also pledged that he and all members of his administration would do everything they could to ensure Carter began his term “as smoothly and effectively as possible.” Gerald Ford’s statement ended, “May God bless you and your family as you undertake your new responsibilities.”

One leader ceding power to the next, gracious in defeat, pledging unity for the good of the nation — that is what is required by fidelity to the Constitution and love of country. We depend upon the goodwill of our leaders and their dedication to duty to ensure the survival of our republic. Only a man unacquainted with honor, courage, and character would see weakness in this.


In a just world, the January 6th Select Committee investigation, and the criminal prosecutions that have now followed, would be the end of a dark period in our nation’s history. The man who mobilized a violent assault on our Capitol — who attempted to overturn an election and seize power — would have no political future. Donald Trump and those who aided him would be scorned and punished. But as I write this in the fall of 2023, Trump is running for president of the United States once again, and he holds a sizable lead among Republican contenders. Today, none of us can tell if the story of January 6 is nearing its end or is only just beginning. We may have many darker chapters ahead.

When I questioned Jared Kushner during his appearance before the January 6th Committee on March 31, 2022, the presidential son‑in‑law attempted to suggest that those criticizing Donald Trump were making the mistake of taking his words literally — that Trump often made hyperbolic and provocative statements as a kind of sport. But the events of January 6 demonstrated that Donald Trump meant what he said. He actually intended to achieve the most extreme things he was suggesting. And on the morning of January 6, 2021, he believed that his schemes would allow him to continue in the presidency despite having lost the election.

Today, we must take Donald Trump’s statements literally. Trump has told us that he thinks the Constitution can and should be suspended when necessary, that what happened on January 6 was justified, that in a second Trump presidency he would seek retribution. And much more. Some have suggested that “the normal U.S. checks and balances” of our constitutional system would constrain Trump. They won’t.

We have seen what a group of dishonest and unscrupulous lawyers will do in service to Donald Trump. An American president surrounded by people like these could dismantle our republic. It would not necessarily all happen on the first day of a second Trump term. But step by step, Donald Trump would tear down the walls that our framers so carefully built to combat centralized power and tyranny. He would attempt to dismantle what Justice Antonin Scalia called the “real constitutional law.” Perhaps Trump would start by refusing to enforce certain judicial rulings he opposed. He has already attacked the judiciary repeatedly, and ignored the rulings of scores of courts. He knows that judicial rulings have force only if the executive branch enforces them. So he won’t.

Certainly, Donald Trump would run the US government with acting officials who are not, and could not be, confirmed by the Senate. He would obtain a bogus legal opinion allowing him to do it. He would ensure that the Senate confirmation process is no longer any check on his authority.

The types of resignation threats that may have kept Trump at bay before — that, for example, convinced him to reverse his appointment of Jeffrey Clark as acting attorney general — would no longer be a deterrent. Trump would be eager for those who oppose his actions at the Justice Department and elsewhere to resign. And, at the Department of Defense (where a single US senator, one of Donald Trump’s strongest supporters, is doing great harm to America’s national security by refusing to allow the confirmation of senior civilian or military officials), Trump would again install his own team of loyalists — people who would act on his orders without hesitation.

This is not speculation.

This is what Donald Trump has already told us he will do.

This is what he has already done.

Step by step, Donald Trump would tear down the other structures that restrain an American president. No Pat Cipollone, no Mike Pence, no Greg Jacob, no Bill Barr, no Jeff Rosen — none of them would be there to stop what Donald Trump attempts. The assumption that our institutions will protect themselves is purely wishful thinking by people who prefer to look the other way. Those loyalists and lawyers who step up to help Trump unravel our republic would do so knowing that they would be pardoned. That they would face no risk of prosecution. And Donald Trump would not hesitate to pardon himself. Any who step forward to oppose Trump will face the types of threats, retaliation, and violence we have already seen — but this time with the full power of an unconstrained American president behind them.

We have also now learned that most Republicans currently in Congress will do what Donald Trump asks, no matter what it is. We can‑ not rely on them to check his power. A Senate of Josh Hawleys certainly won’t stop Trump. Neither will House Republicans led by a Speaker who has made himself a willing hostage to Trump and his most unhinged sup‑ porters in Congress. I am very sad to say that America can no longer count on a body of elected Republicans to protect our republic.

Meanwhile, those in the media who have willingly spread Donald Trump’s dangerous claims and propaganda for profit will continue to propel him forward. They know that what he says and does is wrong. They know the consequences of what they are doing. But they do it anyway.

Donald Trump will be on trial as he runs for the presidency in 2024. We cannot know for certain what the next year holds. But we have already seen enough to know what might happen.


In November 1800, John Adams wrote to his wife, Abigail, after he had spent his first night in the White House. His letter included a prayer, which is now inscribed above the fireplace in the White House state dining room. It reads, in part, “May none but honest and wise men ever rule under this roof.” Adams knew that the character of our leaders mattered. He and our other founders knew that the institutions of self‑government could not sustain and protect themselves. It would fall to the people of this nation — and to our elected leaders — to do that. The perpetuation of our institutions and the defense of our Constitution now depend on us. At some point, a genuinely conservative Republican Party — a party that stands for limited government, a strong national defense, and the rule of law — can reemerge and win the presidency. But if Donald Trump is the Republican nominee in 2024, we must do everything we can to defeat him. If Trump is on the ballot, the 2024 presidential election will not just be about inflation, or budget deficits, or national security, or any of the many critical issues we Americans normally face. We will be voting on whether to preserve our republic. As a nation, we can endure damaging policies for a four‑year term. But we cannot survive a president willing to terminate our Constitution.

If you visit the National Archives in Washington, DC, you can see America’s founding documents on display. Look down through the glass at our Constitution and you will notice immediately that the first three words of the document, written in 1787, are larger than all the others. Those words — We the People — describe our power and our responsibility. In the era of Trump, certain members of Congress and other Trump enablers — many of whom carry the Constitution in their pocket but seem never to have read it — have attempted to hijack this phrase, to claim it gives them authority to subvert the rule of law or overturn the results of elections. They have preyed on the patriotism of millions of Americans. They are working to return to office the man responsible for January 6.

We the people must stop them. We are the only thing that can stop them. This is more important than partisan politics. Every one of us — Republican, Democrat, Independent — must work and vote together to ensure that Donald Trump and those who have appeased, enabled, and collaborated with him are defeated.

This is the cause of our time.

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Epilogue

Thomas Jefferson was the first president to take the oath of office in Washington, DC. On March 4, 1801, he was sworn in at the US Capitol Building — which at the time consisted of a single small structure that would eventually become the north wing of the building we know today. Among the visitors in attendance was Margaret Bayard Smith, wife of the owner of one of Washington’s major newspapers. She wrote this to her sister‑in‑law:

I have this morning witnessed one of the most interesting scenes a free people can ever witness. The changes of administration, which in every government and in every age have most generally been epochs of confusion, villainy, and bloodshed, in this our happy country take place without any species of distraction or disorder.

Four years earlier, President George Washington had handed power to President John Adams, but this was the first time power had passed from one party to another. And those watching understood what a momentous — indeed, miraculous — thing it was for that to happen absent “confusion, villainy, and bloodshed.” Until January 2021, every American president had fulfilled his solemn obligation to safeguard the peaceful transfer of power. Every four or eight years, down through our history, candidates of both parties have put aside personal ambition and political battles for the good of the nation — even after the closest of presidential races.

As I was writing this book, I found — pasted onto the pages of one of my Grandmother Cheney’s scrapbooks — President Ford’s concession statement from November 1976. Ford lost the presidential election that year to Jimmy Carter. The final tally in the Electoral College was 297 to 240.

During the closing days of that campaign, President Ford had lost his voice. The morning after the election, when he placed the call to Jimmy Carter to concede the race, Ford handed the phone to his 35‑year‑old chief of staff, Dick Cheney, to read the concession statement to President‑elect Carter. In the statement my father read, President Ford congratulated Carter on his victory, then looked to the future:

As one who has been honored to serve the people of this great land — both in Congress and as President — I believe that we must now put the divisions of the campaign behind us and unite the country once again in a common pursuit of peace and prosperity.

Despite the policy differences between the two men, President Ford assured Carter that he would have Ford’s “complete and wholehearted support” as he took the oath of office. Ford also pledged that he and all members of his administration would do everything they could to ensure Carter began his term “as smoothly and effectively as possible.” Gerald Ford’s statement ended, “May God bless you and your family as you undertake your new responsibilities.”

One leader ceding power to the next, gracious in defeat, pledging unity for the good of the nation — that is what is required by fidelity to the Constitution and love of country. We depend upon the goodwill of our leaders and their dedication to duty to ensure the survival of our republic. Only a man unacquainted with honor, courage, and character would see weakness in this.


In a just world, the January 6th Select Committee investigation, and the criminal prosecutions that have now followed, would be the end of a dark period in our nation’s history. The man who mobilized a violent assault on our Capitol — who attempted to overturn an election and seize power — would have no political future. Donald Trump and those who aided him would be scorned and punished. But as I write this in the fall of 2023, Trump is running for president of the United States once again, and he holds a sizable lead among Republican contenders. Today, none of us can tell if the story of January 6 is nearing its end or is only just beginning. We may have many darker chapters ahead.

When I questioned Jared Kushner during his appearance before the January 6th Committee on March 31, 2022, the presidential son‑in‑law attempted to suggest that those criticizing Donald Trump were making the mistake of taking his words literally — that Trump often made hyperbolic and provocative statements as a kind of sport. But the events of January 6 demonstrated that Donald Trump meant what he said. He actually intended to achieve the most extreme things he was suggesting. And on the morning of January 6, 2021, he believed that his schemes would allow him to continue in the presidency despite having lost the election.

Today, we must take Donald Trump’s statements literally. Trump has told us that he thinks the Constitution can and should be suspended when necessary, that what happened on January 6 was justified, that in a second Trump presidency he would seek retribution. And much more. Some have suggested that “the normal U.S. checks and balances” of our constitutional system would constrain Trump. They won’t.

We have seen what a group of dishonest and unscrupulous lawyers will do in service to Donald Trump. An American president surrounded by people like these could dismantle our republic. It would not necessarily all happen on the first day of a second Trump term. But step by step, Donald Trump would tear down the walls that our framers so carefully built to combat centralized power and tyranny. He would attempt to dismantle what Justice Antonin Scalia called the “real constitutional law.” Perhaps Trump would start by refusing to enforce certain judicial rulings he opposed. He has already attacked the judiciary repeatedly, and ignored the rulings of scores of courts. He knows that judicial rulings have force only if the executive branch enforces them. So he won’t.

Certainly, Donald Trump would run the US government with acting officials who are not, and could not be, confirmed by the Senate. He would obtain a bogus legal opinion allowing him to do it. He would ensure that the Senate confirmation process is no longer any check on his authority.

The types of resignation threats that may have kept Trump at bay before — that, for example, convinced him to reverse his appointment of Jeffrey Clark as acting attorney general — would no longer be a deterrent. Trump would be eager for those who oppose his actions at the Justice Department and elsewhere to resign. And, at the Department of Defense (where a single US senator, one of Donald Trump’s strongest supporters, is doing great harm to America’s national security by refusing to allow the confirmation of senior civilian or military officials), Trump would again install his own team of loyalists — people who would act on his orders without hesitation.

This is not speculation.

This is what Donald Trump has already told us he will do.

This is what he has already done.

Step by step, Donald Trump would tear down the other structures that restrain an American president. No Pat Cipollone, no Mike Pence, no Greg Jacob, no Bill Barr, no Jeff Rosen — none of them would be there to stop what Donald Trump attempts. The assumption that our institutions will protect themselves is purely wishful thinking by people who prefer to look the other way. Those loyalists and lawyers who step up to help Trump unravel our republic would do so knowing that they would be pardoned. That they would face no risk of prosecution. And Donald Trump would not hesitate to pardon himself. Any who step forward to oppose Trump will face the types of threats, retaliation, and violence we have already seen — but this time with the full power of an unconstrained American president behind them.

We have also now learned that most Republicans currently in Congress will do what Donald Trump asks, no matter what it is. We can‑ not rely on them to check his power. A Senate of Josh Hawleys certainly won’t stop Trump. Neither will House Republicans led by a Speaker who has made himself a willing hostage to Trump and his most unhinged sup‑ porters in Congress. I am very sad to say that America can no longer count on a body of elected Republicans to protect our republic.

Meanwhile, those in the media who have willingly spread Donald Trump’s dangerous claims and propaganda for profit will continue to propel him forward. They know that what he says and does is wrong. They know the consequences of what they are doing. But they do it anyway.

Donald Trump will be on trial as he runs for the presidency in 2024. We cannot know for certain what the next year holds. But we have already seen enough to know what might happen.


In November 1800, John Adams wrote to his wife, Abigail, after he had spent his first night in the White House. His letter included a prayer, which is now inscribed above the fireplace in the White House state dining room. It reads, in part, “May none but honest and wise men ever rule under this roof.” Adams knew that the character of our leaders mattered. He and our other founders knew that the institutions of self‑government could not sustain and protect themselves. It would fall to the people of this nation — and to our elected leaders — to do that. The perpetuation of our institutions and the defense of our Constitution now depend on us. At some point, a genuinely conservative Republican Party — a party that stands for limited government, a strong national defense, and the rule of law — can reemerge and win the presidency. But if Donald Trump is the Republican nominee in 2024, we must do everything we can to defeat him. If Trump is on the ballot, the 2024 presidential election will not just be about inflation, or budget deficits, or national security, or any of the many critical issues we Americans normally face. We will be voting on whether to preserve our republic. As a nation, we can endure damaging policies for a four‑year term. But we cannot survive a president willing to terminate our Constitution.

If you visit the National Archives in Washington, DC, you can see America’s founding documents on display. Look down through the glass at our Constitution and you will notice immediately that the first three words of the document, written in 1787, are larger than all the others. Those words — We the People — describe our power and our responsibility. In the era of Trump, certain members of Congress and other Trump enablers — many of whom carry the Constitution in their pocket but seem never to have read it — have attempted to hijack this phrase, to claim it gives them authority to subvert the rule of law or overturn the results of elections. They have preyed on the patriotism of millions of Americans. They are working to return to office the man responsible for January 6.

We the people must stop them. We are the only thing that can stop them. This is more important than partisan politics. Every one of us — Republican, Democrat, Independent — must work and vote together to ensure that Donald Trump and those who have appeased, enabled, and collaborated with him are defeated.

This is the cause of our time.

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The 26 Best Valentine’s Day Gifts for Kids https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/gifts/valentines-day-gifts-for-kids/ Thu, 25 Jan 2024 14:38:09 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1502734

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One-Bowl Chocolate Cupcake Recipe https://www.moon.com/storey/one-bowl-chocolate-cupcake-recipe/ Tue, 23 Jan 2024 20:47:43 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1499528

If you’re in the mood for chocolate cupcakes, but you’re out of milk, eggs, and butter, here’s a quick and easy vegan recipe that will do the trick. Or you can use the same batter to make an equally quick and easy cake!

One-Bowl Chocolate Cupcake photo!

Makes 24 Cupcakes

Here’s What You Need

  • 2 cups sugar
  • 3 cups flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ¾ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 2 cups water
  • ¾ cup vegetable or olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons white vinegar
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Here's What You Do

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

12-cup muffin pans with paper liners

Line two 12-cup muffin pans with paper liners. If you’re making a cake, grease the pan.

Photo of kids pouring ingredients into a bowl.

Stir the sugar, flour, baking soda, salt, and cocoa powder in a large bowl.

Photo of kids pouring ingredients into a bowl.

Add the water, vegetable oil, vinegar, and vanilla. Mix it up with a spoon until nice and smooth.

Child pouring cupcake batter into a muffin pan.

Pour the batter into the muffin pans until they are two-thirds full. Bake for 25 minutes (longer for a cake), or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Baking Times

  • Two 8- or 9-inch round or square pans - 30 minutes
  • One 13- by 9- by 2-inch pan - 40 minutes
  • Two 12-cup muffin pans - 25 minutes

Excerpted and adapted from Baking Class © Deanna F. Cook.


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If you’re in the mood for chocolate cupcakes, but you’re out of milk, eggs, and butter, here’s a quick and easy vegan recipe that will do the trick. Or you can use the same batter to make an equally quick and easy cake!

One-Bowl Chocolate Cupcake photo!

Makes 24 Cupcakes

Here’s What You Need

  • 2 cups sugar
  • 3 cups flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ¾ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 2 cups water
  • ¾ cup vegetable or olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons white vinegar
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Here's What You Do

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

12-cup muffin pans with paper liners

Line two 12-cup muffin pans with paper liners. If you’re making a cake, grease the pan.

Photo of kids pouring ingredients into a bowl.

Stir the sugar, flour, baking soda, salt, and cocoa powder in a large bowl.

Photo of kids pouring ingredients into a bowl.

Add the water, vegetable oil, vinegar, and vanilla. Mix it up with a spoon until nice and smooth.

Child pouring cupcake batter into a muffin pan.

Pour the batter into the muffin pans until they are two-thirds full. Bake for 25 minutes (longer for a cake), or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

Baking Times

  • Two 8- or 9-inch round or square pans - 30 minutes
  • One 13- by 9- by 2-inch pan - 40 minutes
  • Two 12-cup muffin pans - 25 minutes

Excerpted and adapted from Baking Class © Deanna F. Cook.


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Andrzej Sapkowski Discusses the Witcher and His New Book! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHQtTiP068E Tue, 23 Jan 2024 18:08:15 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1501687

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Andrzej Sapkowski receives the prestigious annual award from the Polish Ministry of Culture and National Heritage. https://wszystkoconajwazniejsze.pl/pepites/golda-tencer-andrzej-sapkowski-i-andrzej-mastalerz-laureatami-nagrod-ministra-kultury-i-dziedzictwa-narodowego/ Tue, 23 Jan 2024 18:07:22 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1501684

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Andrzej Sapkowski Is Writing Another Witcher Book! https://www.ign.com/articles/andrzej-sapkowski-is-writing-another-witcher-book Tue, 23 Jan 2024 18:06:12 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1501678

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Listen to Breakfast in Beauclair: A Witcher Podcast https://www.breakfastinbeauclair.com/ Tue, 23 Jan 2024 18:03:24 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1501673

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THE UNWEDDING ARC Giveaway https://www.moon.com/articles/the-unwedding-arc-giveaway/ Fri, 12 Jan 2024 18:44:15 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1497814

Ally Condie

About the Author

Ally Condie is the #1 New York Times bestselling author of the Matched Trilogy, and of many other books (including the Edgar Award Finalist, Summerlost). A former English teacher, she enjoys hiking with her family in the mountains near their home in Utah.

Learn more about this author

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Win a bundle of early reader copies to get a jump on 2024 reading goals! https://www.moon.com/articles/win-a-bundle-of-early-reader-copies-to-get-a-jump-on-2024-reading-goals/ Thu, 11 Jan 2024 23:52:54 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1497587 ]]> Jesus Proved Prayer & Leadership Belong Together https://www.moon.com/articles/jesus-proved-prayer-leadership-belong-together/ Thu, 11 Jan 2024 18:44:33 +0000 https://www.hachettebookgroup.com/?p=1497449

Here’s how to overcome 8 obstacles that get in the way.

As a leader, chances are your bookshelves—like ours—are overflowing with leadership books. And as a Christian, you likely have spiritual formation books piled up around your home. But it’s rare when these two genres come together. That’s what has us so excited about the new book Lead with Prayer. The authors, Ryan Skoog, Peter Greer, and Cameron Doolittle, set out to blend the two genres together. They sat down with world-changing leaders like Francis Chan, John Mark Comer, Joni Eareckson Tada, Tim Mackie, Gary Haugen, John Ortberg, Mark Batterson, and global leaders across six continents and asked, “What does your daily prayer life look like?” 

The book that emerged is filled with biblical insights, practical prayer tools, and clear action steps anyone can implement to become a leader who prioritizes prayer and multiplies it within any leadership context: from families to Fortune 500 companies. 

Every follower of Christ may struggle to prioritize prayer, but for busy leaders, the challenge to pray can be exponentially greater. Read on for six honest takeaways the interviewees from Lead with Prayer shared on how to confront the obstacles to prayer we all face. 

Praying leaders:

  1. Overcome the urge to be busy all the time: Praying leaders make space for silence, solitude, meditation, and retreat. It doesn’t just happen; they rearrange their calendars, say “no” strategically, and create time to abide with God. 
  2. Put influence in its place: Many today define the essence of leadership as influence, yet influence is something to steward for God’s glory if it comes. Praying leaders pursue God’s agenda rather than chasing influence. 
  3. Outsmart distractions: Praying leaders know how to separate themselves from the buzz of the world—phones can be left in other rooms and emails can be answered another time. They recognize nothing is more important and urgent than communing with their Creator. 
  4. Silence the pressure to always seem “okay”: Praying leaders understand the futility of dishonesty with God and recognize that praying through tough times fuels faith-filled dependency. Resting on the truth of Scripture in prayer amid challenging circumstances yields greater intimacy with God. 
  5. Recognize their limits: Praying leaders understand the abundance of Heaven’s resources. They see their daily limitations, emotions, and sin nature as triggers to pray. 
  6. Allocate resources to prayer: One leader shared that investing in prayer simply elevates prayer to the level of accounting or any other organizational function. Through that lens, it would seem odd to not invest in time, money, energy, and resources in prayer. 

Becoming a praying leader is a lifelong journey in learning to walk, talk, and listen to God—and helping others do the same. It’s our joy to recommend Lead with Prayer as a step on that journey. As you endeavor to lead yourself and your teams in prayer, we wanted to offer these free downloadable tools from Lead with Prayer. Each tool includes practical action steps to help you prioritize and grow in prayer personally and multiply prayer among those you lead.

Ryan Skoog

About the Author

Ryan Skoog has co-founded several travel technology companies, such as Faith Ventures and Yonder Travel Insurance, and he is also the founder and president of VENTURE, a nonprofit that works in the toughest places of the world, serving war refugees, trafficked people, oppressed children, and the unreached. VENTURE has planted thousands of churches that serve in their own communities to rescue girls from trafficking, start farms, and train in microenterprise and feminine hygiene, leading to generational transformation. Ryan is the co-author of the book Chosen: A 30 Day Devotional.

Learn more about this author

Peter Greer

About the Author

Peter Greer is the president and CEO of HOPE International, a global Christ-centered economic development organization serving throughout Africa, Asia, Latin America, and Eastern Europe. Under Peter’s leadership, HOPE has expanded from working in two to over twenty countries and served over 2.5 million families. Prior to joining HOPE, Peter worked in Cambodia, Zimbabwe, and Rwanda. He has co-authored 15 books, including Mission Drift, Rooting for Rivals, The Gift of Disillusionment, and The Spiritual Danger of Doing Good.

Learn more about this author

Cameron Doolittle

About the Author

Cameron Doolittle is senior advisor to the Maclellan Foundation, executive director of John Mark Comer’s Practicing the Way, and co-founder of Generosity Path. He previously served as an advisor to senators, congressmen, and senior executives at Fortune 500 companies through his consulting firm, since acquired by Gartner. Cameron advises high-impact givers and great ministries. He now consults with organizations that his family loves, including BibleProject, Desiring God with John Piper, Faith Driven Giver with Henry Kaestner, ECFA, Awana, Christianity Today, YoungLife, and others. He served as founding CEO of Jill’s House, a ministry for kids with intellectual disabilities.

Learn more about this author

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